Recharging R134 gas in Danfoss BD50F

eebygum

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I think I need to re-gas my little Danfoss BD50F fridge ( the compressor, fan, switch are all working but it has stopped cooling).

I’ve read a couple of guides on how to do it .... but I understand I cannot replace with R134a gas myself because of the F-gas regulations.

A lot of the ‘kits’ for cars (I know I will need an R12 adaptor for the Danfoss) use an alternative natural gas which you can use DIY ( see link below).

R134a Equivalent Aircon Air Con Recharge Regas Refill Coolant Fits BMW 617529407229 | eBay

Would these be OK for a Danfoss BD50F??
 
As Paul says if the gas has gone simply replacing it will not resolve your problem.

I have looked at this R134a replacement, but it does not say what it is. Not sure I would go any further with this stuff. It might be propane or a mix of some hydrocarbons. The key difference between a car and a boat fridge is that the latter is inside so if it does leak wil it burnn or worse explode.

The proper process is ...

1 Remove residual gas using a recovery unit. This will need proper disposal.
2 Pressure test the system with dry nitrogen to ~ 15 bar.
3 Find and then fix any leaks.
4 Re-pressure test and prove the system tight by locking the pressure in for at least an hour or two during which time there must be no drop in pressure.
5 Vent the nitrogen and then evacuate to below 5 torr (1 torr = 1mm of mercury where 1 atmospshere = 762 torr).
6 Break the charge with R134a. On a small system the precise quantity should be weighed in. However, the system can be charged until the evaporator forms a light frost coat, but with only a light dew on the compressor return or suction pipe.

If it is a portable fridge then take it to a local domestic fridge repairer. If near Hamble or Reading bring it to me.
 
As Paul says if the gas has gone simply replacing it will not resolve your problem.

I have looked at this R134a replacement, but it does not say what it is. Not sure I would go any further with this stuff. It might be propane or a mix of some hydrocarbons. The key difference between a car and a boat fridge is that the latter is inside so if it does leak wil it burnn or worse explode.

The proper process is ...

1 Remove residual gas using a recovery unit. This will need proper disposal.
2 Pressure test the system with dry nitrogen to ~ 15 bar.
3 Find and then fix any leaks.
4 Re-pressure test and prove the system tight by locking the pressure in for at least an hour or two during which time there must be no drop in pressure.
5 Vent the nitrogen and then evacuate to below 5 torr (1 torr = 1mm of mercury where 1 atmospshere = 762 torr).
6 Break the charge with R134a. On a small system the precise quantity should be weighed in. However, the system can be charged until the evaporator forms a light frost coat, but with only a light dew on the compressor return or suction pipe.

If it is a portable fridge then take it to a local domestic fridge repairer. If near Hamble or Reading bring it to me.
I had the marine engineer look at it while performing the annual service just before launching and we ruled out most issues for non-cooling which suggested it must be the gas; which I thought I might attempt myself.


Thanks for the detailed reply which goes into more detail than the instructions I have. The boat is based in Wales so unfortunately I cannot bring it to you but I agree... I think my best option is take off this weekend and get it to a domestic engineer. Cheers.
 
not disputing what you're claiming, but make sure that compressor is indeed running, had a case that with certain (lowish) voltage on the two top pins of the el. control module, I was getting the fan to run assuming that compressor was also running - but wasn't!
Have you fitted a 5mm led on the right pins to see what's the diagnostic code flashing to you?
Was struggling for two years with one of my two 80lt fridges, result was semi blocked filter. Fridge engineer identified the problem, emptied, replaced, vacuum tested and regassed it. Works fine at last!
 
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