Really sorry but no one else to ask. Eber problem

NUTMEG

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My 'new to me' boat has an eberspacher heater. It has been installed between the port fuel tank and the hull. Access via wheelhouse, lift floor, climb into engine bay, remove plywood panel, squeeze through gap aft of fuel tank, then you can see it but not reach it. So I don't know what model it is and until I lose a few stone I am unlikely to be able to find out!

In the engine bay is the fuel pump, pipe in and pipe out with two wires attached.

In the wheelhouse is a small panel with a three position rotary switch. Center off, up fast and down slow.

When I turn the switch I can hear a fan start up. No clicking from the pump. Nothing else happens.

I put a volt meter across the two wires to the pump. 1.5v to almost zero cycling perhaps twice a second or so. 1.5v - 0.2v - 1.5v etc.

That's all I know!

Any ideas as to what might be wrong with it, or what model of eber it might be.

Any insights into the state of mind of the person that thought installing it in such an inaccessible place was a good idea would also be welcome.
 

lynall

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The pulsed supply to the pump is correct, but the voltage should be whatever your boat is
Theres quite literally dozens of models, maybe a pic would help?
 

david_bagshaw

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ebber manuals are available online from espar.

fan runs, with a igniter and glow plug.

after a purge period the fuel pump will pulse

after a further period if the flame isnt established, checked by it getting to a set temp the heater stops


depending on model it then can be re started, only a certain no of times, afterwhich a dealer has to reset. older ones dont have this "benefit"


could be

no fuel
lock out
failed igniter / glow plug
tripped over temp switch

connectors control boxes etc as a start
 
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David2452

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It is probably the pump, the voltage you read is fairly normal with a cheapish meter as the 12v pulse doesn't have time to fully register before disconnect. You can confirm this by applying a current directly to the pump and disconnecting in a pulse manner, no click then it's an issue with the pump. If it has been stood for a while it may be stuck and a few sharp raps might just free it, sometimes it works sometimes not. If the pump does tick then you need to look at the heater and it's components, but as the pump is easily (relatively) accessible you may as well start there.
 

NUTMEG

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Brilliant. Batts fully charged but will try engine running option. Perhaps I am simply turning the thing off too quickly before the cycle is complete? The voltage thing looks worrying though.
 

NUTMEG

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David2452, thanks you, the meter I keep on the boat is a Maplins Special so you may have a point. Will try threatening the pump with a mallet, used to work on the old Mini pumps of my youth!
 

David2452

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Brilliant. Batts fully charged but will try engine running option. Perhaps I am simply turning the thing off too quickly before the cycle is complete? The voltage thing looks worrying though.

No, you are not turning off too early, from your description the issue is almost certainly with the pump.
 

l'escargot

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My batteries are tired and due for replacing this season. My DL3 starts up fine when on shore power or when the engine is running but not when on just batteries.

Edit

Once up and running the current draw is less and the engine can be switched off.
 
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MrCramp

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I had an Eberspacher in my last boat. My two service batteries were new and well charged but the Eber would only ever start with the engine running. Every time I used it I had the engine running and then turned the eber on. It never ever started first time. It started second time every single time and never let me down. On more than one occasion it ran throughout the night on the low setting. I could turn the engine off as soon as it started. It worked like that for the four years I had the boat.

Because the current to the pump pulses you are very unlikely to get a reading on a multi meter.
Good Luck.
 

NormanS

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Since I fitted a new burning tube, and stopped using high-sulphur fuel, mine starts first time every time, without having to run engines or anything like that.
 

NUTMEG

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Heater? Wheelhouse? The life of Riley, eh?

You'll be telling us next you have silk sheets and crystal chandeliers aboard! ;)

That made me chuckle. Ah but I put my time in on a flush decked gaffer with 4'6" of headroom. Reckon I have earned the right to be able to stand up to pull my trousers on! Don't tell the missus about chandeliers for heavens sake, she is already talking scatter cushions and curtains.

New boat is a CW28 ketch. Not a great sailer but I might, just might, get the missus to come out with me. Fingers crossed.
 

LittleSister

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Ah but I put my time in on a flush decked gaffer with 4'6" of headroom.

If only someone on these forums had warned you. :rolleyes:

Reckon I have earned the right to be able to stand up to pull my trousers on!

I'm sure you have!

New boat is a CW28 ketch. Not a great sailer but I might, just might, get the missus to come out with me.

That must seem vast compared to your previous boats, and two masts to play with to boot! Hope you have lots of fun in her. Good luck with the challenging but potentially rewarding task you have set yourself! :)
 

David2452

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Since I fitted a new burning tube, and stopped using high-sulphur fuel, mine starts first time every time, without having to run engines or anything like that.

They all do if properly installed and serviced, poor starting is a fault not a feature, most will start on 11.5v at the battery if the cabling is correct and the heater has no faults.
 

Scillypete

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Its already been mentioned but is worth emphasizing again .. . . . check clean and remake the electrical connections, there may be more than one poor connection in the set up so just because you found one does not mean its fixed check them all. The fuel pump will not kick in until 'the pot' is hot if that's not happening it just shuts down again.

Mine only started once last season so back in January I replaced the plug and the mesh filter then remade all the electrical connections and voila it started first time every time, so far.
 

boatmike

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I think Pete is probably right. The fact that you are showing a voltage cycling at all in the pump feed seems to indicate that the system is working but the very low voltage seems to suggest a high resistance somewhere. try tracing the pump wires back to the box and if necessary replace the wire completely. Of course you need to ensure your meter is reading correctly. If necessary put a 12 v bulb across the wires and you should see it flash. If it doesn't there is insufficient current. If it does and the pump does not click the pump is knackered. You should be able to check the pump seperately by putting 12 v across it direct from your battery. Attach one wire permanently and just touch and release the other. the pump should click and without the delivery pipe on should deliver a spurt of diesel. Doesn't matter which is positive or negative by the way. It works either way. Good luck!
 

David2452

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I think Pete is probably right. The fact that you are showing a voltage cycling at all in the pump feed seems to indicate that the system is working but the very low voltage seems to suggest a high resistance somewhere.

No it does not, I have already posted earlier in this thread that a true voltage reading of the pulse is not achievable and the reading the OP is getting with the Maplin special is nothing out of the ordinary.
 

AntarcticPilot

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Brilliant. Batts fully charged but will try engine running option. Perhaps I am simply turning the thing off too quickly before the cycle is complete? The voltage thing looks worrying though.

Mine takes several minutes to get started - there is quite an elaborate start-up procedure that it goes through. Another "gotcha" is that the fuel line can need priming if it has been left off for a long time; on mine I can simply try starting it several times, but bear in mind that some models have a limited number of permitted unsuccessful starts before locking up.

You should be able to hear the fuel pump "ticking" if it is working - it is quite loud.
 
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