PaulGS
Member
I seem to be buying a boat that's been on the hard for a year and a half. It was properly serviced immediately before lay-up so do I now need to service it again? TIA
Re-servicing an engine stood for 18 months?
- Thread starter PaulGS
- Start date
Momac
Well-known member
Oil is cheaper than metal but if the oil still looks like new there would be no benefit from changing it again.
I would check the impeller which might not have liked being stuck in one position for 18 months.
Have spare fuel filters available in case of need.
I would check the impeller which might not have liked being stuck in one position for 18 months.
Have spare fuel filters available in case of need.
ChromeDome
Well-known member
If all looks good (as mentioned by MartynG) I'd take the boat out, run it to normal operating temperature (not idling - working), then change the oil and filter.
Reason: Oil's job is to lube, cool and clean. After standing a little corrosion may have started to build on inner surfaces, old oil and particles/gunk could be there and fuel or humidity could be absorbed by the oil.
After running it for 20 minutes or so it will have done the cleaning, boiled out foreign liquids and collected whatever particles. Then is the right time to change oil and filter, to start your use on a fresh base.
And, oh - all IMO
Reason: Oil's job is to lube, cool and clean. After standing a little corrosion may have started to build on inner surfaces, old oil and particles/gunk could be there and fuel or humidity could be absorbed by the oil.
After running it for 20 minutes or so it will have done the cleaning, boiled out foreign liquids and collected whatever particles. Then is the right time to change oil and filter, to start your use on a fresh base.
And, oh - all IMO
geem
Well-known member
Assuming good quality oil filter installed, I would just run it. Checking the raw water impeller before you go makes sense but any crud in the oil system will be collected in the normal way by the filter. The filter has high capacity so it will easily deal with it. If the oil is clean then any crud will be very limited if its there at all
ChromeDome
Well-known member
Evaluating oil by visual appearance is not the right way if you want to assess the oil's properties or chemical content. The oil can be fine although darker or even black (esp. diesels) as it naturally changes while it is doing its job.
Metallurgy, viscosity, traces of coolant, fuel or water.. It takes analysis to get insight but if you're not into that kind, a simple oil change is the safe choice.
It is true indeed, that oil is cheaper than metal!
Metallurgy, viscosity, traces of coolant, fuel or water.. It takes analysis to get insight but if you're not into that kind, a simple oil change is the safe choice.
It is true indeed, that oil is cheaper than metal!
vyv_cox
Well-known member
My boat stood ashore in Greece for three years thanks to covid. I had changed oil and filter before leaving it. I just ran it, knowing it was dry inside and not in a damp environment.
Buck Turgidson
Well-known member
You might want to turn it by hand or with the compression off for a few revolutions before starting it up just to get her a bit slick before any stress is put on her. ;-)
ChromeDome
Well-known member
In the "good old" days crack ventuilation was open, atleast on cars, planes and other on-land equipment.
Maybe also some marine applications. So humidity could get into sump, eventually to condense into water.
Later/modern engines are closed in that regard so less prone to letting humidity in. Diesel and two stroke petrols are lubed a bit by the fuel which helps layup, but valves being held open for months will allow air an humidity to reach combustion chambers and valves, so turning by hand to chek it is free, is good advice.
Maybe also some marine applications. So humidity could get into sump, eventually to condense into water.
Later/modern engines are closed in that regard so less prone to letting humidity in. Diesel and two stroke petrols are lubed a bit by the fuel which helps layup, but valves being held open for months will allow air an humidity to reach combustion chambers and valves, so turning by hand to chek it is free, is good advice.
TwoFish
Active member
I'm certainly no expert, but things I and my fellow owner are particularly glad we have done with the engine of our our recently acquired laid-up-over-the-Covid-years boat:
- Checked the impeller. It was broken and needed replacement.
- Removed the heat exchanger tube stack for inspection. It proved to be quite badly scaled and gunged up and needed cleaning and descaling.
- Pumped out 20L of diesel to check its condition. It seemed clean (but see below)
- Changed the fuel filters. The secondary filter seemed fine. The primary filter was grubby and had evidence of bug in it; so I now plan a second pump-out, some fuel polishing and then treating with Marine 16.
ridgy
Well-known member
I would be more concerned by the fuel. The boat I recently bought had only been stood for two months with a smallish 40l plastic tank however when I went to change the primary fuel filter I did not like what I found at all. I guess the filter was doing its job but the incoming hose was spewing a black gunge. I took the tank out and when emptied was full of rust bits and all sorts and then the inspection cover would not seal again properly.
Ended up buying a new tank, replacing all lines, and putting in a new Racor filter. Feel much better about the whole thing and glad that I did it.
Ended up buying a new tank, replacing all lines, and putting in a new Racor filter. Feel much better about the whole thing and glad that I did it.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
I sampled mine with a Pela to ensure it was bug-free before turning the engine over.
ridgy
Well-known member
That would have been false hope in my case. I don't think diesel bug was the problem or the worst problem if it existed. I filtered the fuel as it was coming out and the fuel above the bottom was fine but the amount of junk in the tank was amazing. For sure this boat will last me a good while but if if ever bought another then a serious cleansing of the tank would be first priority and I would probably just replace the tank anyway assuming access was sufficient based on this experience.
Porthandbuoy
Well-known member
My boat had been laid up for 5 years when I bought her. The fuel system was as buggy as hell and I needed the hp pump and injectors overhauled. Took me weeks to clean out the fuel tanks and rig a fuel polishing system as well.
As for the rest of the engine I used fine wet’n’dry on the pulley wheels to remove rust, fitted a new belt and water pump impeller and replaced the coolant. Only then did I run it up to temperature before changing the oil in both engine and gearbox. I found engine oil in the gearbox instead of ATF; I gave that two changes.
As for the rest of the engine I used fine wet’n’dry on the pulley wheels to remove rust, fitted a new belt and water pump impeller and replaced the coolant. Only then did I run it up to temperature before changing the oil in both engine and gearbox. I found engine oil in the gearbox instead of ATF; I gave that two changes.
wonkywinch
Well-known member
I watch this You Tube channel where they drag 40/50 year old cars out of barns and get them running again.
https://m.youtube.com/@BudgetBuildz
https://m.youtube.com/@BudgetBuildz
ChromeDome
Well-known member
Huge difference between a barn and the marine environment.
Vicegrip Garage (u2be) does it all the time. And a lot of other stuff - on the dry.
Vicegrip Garage (u2be) does it all the time. And a lot of other stuff - on the dry.
wonkywinch
Well-known member
Huge difference between 18 months and 40 years too but point taken ;-)
ChromeDome
Well-known member
Yes, but 18 months is like nothing, tbh.
When I took mine out of hibernation this year they started in two seconds - and have done so since new. That is 19 years without
missing a beat.
This year they even got new timing belts and tensioners as a part of due diligence (12 years since last change) (son in action).
All removed parts were like new!
When I took mine out of hibernation this year they started in two seconds - and have done so since new. That is 19 years without
missing a beat.
This year they even got new timing belts and tensioners as a part of due diligence (12 years since last change) (son in action).
All removed parts were like new!