Re-canvassing

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I am re-canvassing a plywood cabin roof. I am finding difficulty in getting a concensus of opinion on what the exact material should be (type/weights etc). I have listened to all the arguments for and against fibreglass/epoxy/polyester etc but concluded that original construction is the route I wish to follow. I guess that many different natural fibre cloths have been used but would appreciate comment from those with experience. I am clear on the method of fitting the material but have heard it said that the cloth should be damp to swell the fibres -why is this? Any help on this topic would be appreciated.

PZ
 

Mirelle

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1. Yes, I was taught by my father and by Ben Clarke of West Mersea who supervised my first re-canvassing effort in 1969 that the canvas should be dampened; this makes it pull up tighter when it dries.

2. There are two schools of thought about whether the canvas should be laid in wet paint or whether the paint on the deck should be allowed to dry first; I have favoured the wet paint route. Painting wet canvas sounds odd but I can assure you that it works fine.

3. A handful of old fashioned boatyards may still have decking canvas on a very wide roll to minimise seams. Otherwise you need to decide what to do with the seams - stitch them before you start, rely on copper tacks or fit a screwed down brass strip.

4. It does not need to be very heavy canvas - the sort of weight that you might make a cockpit tent out of will do.

5. I used to think as you do, but I should tell you that I have just had the coachroof re-done with glass cloth and epoxy - I had re-canvassed it in the orthodox way 16 years before but I had managed to drop things on it and start holes in a couple of places.
 
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we had a plywood cabin roof on our wooden boat, then added merbau strips for decking which we have covered in epoxy and matting. the effect is very attractive and very durable and strong.
 
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Dear Princess,
We covered a boat in our November edition which had canvas decks, done traditionally; they felt superb underfoot, and looked great. The canvas is Deck Canvas and comes from Norfolk Marine, where its used on broads Boats. Off a nine foot roll it's £17.20 a metre. Norfolk, at Norwich, can be telephoned on 01603 783150. I'd like to run a feature on the subject so if you are doing it and can get some photography then we'd love to know.
Dan Houston - Editor
 
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My vote is for a epoxy and vacuum bag

Princesszena
My presence keeper re-coated Excaliburs decks in a the early-Seventies late Sixties so he tells me (never had much idea of time) what he did it was to use (International ) 1 one pot epoxy paint and a glass cloth. But in all things preparation is the watchword before he started painting he ensured that the decks were absolutely dry and clean then, he thind the epoxy paint by 75 per for the first coat and 50 per cent for the second coat 25 per cent for the third coat before putting an unthend coat and of paint a on to a the deck and a coathroof. Then before the paint was dry just as it got to that tacky feeling when you can leave a fingerprint in the pain he applied a woven cloths. He then applied three codes are of a epoxy pate the first one before the one underneath the glass had a dried and stipplingin the epoxy into the glass.
The trick says he's too cut their cloth to size when it the paint is still green.
Anyway I can vouch for the efficiency of his application as I met to discover four years ago and she still had a the same deck covering. He has also used to the same technique on me. And it feels great.
He has always jealous of his mate (the Floyd) so who did the same thing the next year but on the last coat it hailed a giving Watersprite a perfect it non-slip finish to her coachroof.
Marais comments about whetting the canvas beforehand makes sense for trouble with glass cloths is that he doesn't expand when it gets wet and contract as it dries if you wear that made it model aeroplanes are as a kid you remember how to dope wings the technique is exactly the same basicly. Today it if I was making him do it again I would insist on a vacuum bag .

:)-{)>
 
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Re: Weight number 8

As I under stand it the main concern is the actual thicknes of canvass.Is it by weight or grade spose' it depends on where you get it from.
Yes wet it but here's the thing some prefere to lay the canvass on wet paint .
The obviouse problem is no allowance for movement.
Wet it but once wet stretch it and fasten down with battons .Once dry then paint over .
Me I'd use the wet canvasse method because if you have any sence you would Cuprinol the whole area before laying canvass, keeping the rot either, dry rot or wet rot at bay.
Re joint's do them the same as you would lead work or take a look at an old bucket and see the way the joint is turned to create a seal ,the simplist way to describe it is draw a letter j then put the letter down draw another hooking it in over the other .It sounds complecated but quite easy as you will see
Where did I get this from a couple of old shipwrites and quite a handy book I have the book detail's some where, so if you want it ask and it is still available cost's about £34.50
Mick
 
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