R clips or split pins

This is turning into an interesting discussion....

Split rings: I have seen a split ring get caught up in a line, get pulled out of shape, and ultimately get pulled from the pin it's supposed to be securing. So I'd tend to avoid for standing rigging, unless you protect, eg with tape, which brings us to:

Taping it up: Generally I agree that it's better not to hide things behind tape. But there's a couple of points in favour; one is that tape could protect against the pin/ring/clip being pulled out or distorted by running rigging or mooring lines. The other is that protection against the rig falling down is only one aspect; another is to protect my ankles from being ripped apart by a sharp ended split pin. Sometimes I prefer to tape.

15° or fully bent back: I used to be persuaded that 15° was sufficient, but that does tend to leave ankle-destroying sharp ends. Bent fully round can be less scratchy. Either way, the key is to make sure you have a plentiful supply of new split pins so you never have to reuse. Fully bent is a pain to remove, but sharp cutters can do the trick.


One of the most useful things on my boat is a pair of digital callipers - it's reduced the number of wrong-size purchases!
I have calipers and I know my clevis pin is 10mm just unsure on the best size clip after bending , or how much to have hanging out of the other end .
 
I have calipers and I know my clevis pin is 10mm just unsure on the best size clip after bending , or how much to have hanging out of the other end .

Go on then, I'll throw my hat in the ring. Make the split pin about twice the clevis pin diameter (i.e. 20mm). I'm saying that for two reasons, it gives you a decent length to grip with pliers when you remove it, and short enough to bend back and "tuck the ends in" to reduce the risk of snagging. If you're stocking up, go for longer pins, easy enough to cut the legs with pliers or cutters if required.
 
Go on then, I'll throw my hat in the ring. Make the split pin about twice the clevis pin diameter (i.e. 20mm). I'm saying that for two reasons, it gives you a decent length to grip with pliers when you remove it, and short enough to bend back and "tuck the ends in" to reduce the risk of snagging. If you're stocking up, go for longer pins, easy enough to cut the legs with pliers or cutters if required.
Cheers that's what I purchased on eBay 20mm length thanks.
 
If you use a split pin then surely it follows that this item is not regularly undone. So why not use a shackle, secured if necessary with a cable tie?
If it has to be loosed then take your chances with any of the above, or a more exotic quick release device, pelican hook?
 
In place of split pins I have inherited 20mm M3 socket head cap screws and nylon insert hex nuts. Although a little fiddly they are very tidy and can be tightened just so that the screw is flush with the edge of the nut. This way there are no sharp ends and everything is visible.
 
BlueWave Smart Pins are a very good replacement for split pins. Previous time to my last mast raising event the rigging company fitted these instead of split pins but last time a different contractor fitted split pins because he could not find them sitting on the chart table to be reused!

Blue Wave Smart Pin - 4 Pack | Force 4 Chandlery
 
Blue wave smart pins look great but the cost is significant at £19.34 for 4. You can get 60 M3 screws and nuts for under £14.
 
BlueWave Smart Pins are a very good replacement for split pins. Previous time to my last mast raising event the rigging company fitted these instead of split pins but last time a different contractor fitted split pins because he could not find them sitting on the chart table to be reused!

Blue Wave Smart Pin - 4 Pack | Force 4 Chandlery
A very smart idea, but velcro? One swipe with a boot and it would be away, without anyone noticing.
 
A very smart idea, but velcro? One swipe with a boot and it would be away, without anyone noticing.

That could not happen as the Velcro is wrapped a few times around itself. It’s the type with the hook on one side of the tape and the loop on the other side of the tape. Also it binds up tight over time and is really hard to rip back out.
 
How about a split ring--like a keyring? Completely secure and no open ends
I had one of those fail on my steering a few years ago. Was close inshore to St Albans head at the time. Emergency steering worked well whilst I was below trying to carry out a repair! Replaced all of them with split rings when we got to Weymouth.
 
Are the R clips ok on the pins on the forestay or should I stick to split pins

Selden's rigging advisor is on record as saying 'R' clips have no place on rigging. There is a video of one of their presentations at a PBO event on the PBO site somewhere. 'R' rings may be easy to remove when you want, but they are also easier to dislodge when you don't.
 
BlueWave Smart Pins are a very good replacement for split pins. Previous time to my last mast raising event the rigging company fitted these instead of split pins but last time a different contractor fitted split pins because he could not find them sitting on the chart table to be reused!

Blue wave smart pins look great but the cost is significant at £19.34 for 4. You can get 60 M3 screws and nuts for under £14.

I'll say far too expensive a solution. SS split pins are cheap enough to replace afresh each time and realistically how often do you need to take out the spilt pins on your rigging? Anyway reckon for my rigging I'd need 40-50 split pins (think I've got that right)
You can get around 425 assorted SS split pins for around £16

Split rings: I have seen a split ring get caught up in a line, get pulled out of shape, and ultimately get pulled from the pin it's supposed to be securing. So I'd tend to avoid for standing rigging, unless you protect, eg with tape, which brings us to:
I have too have seen this and it has happened to me. I still use them for selected uses but they are something I check every day I'm sailing.
 
So, back to split pins. Is the split pin in this pic fitted correctly? Screenshot_20210525_154701.jpg
I can see it'll stop the screw undoing completely, but might not stop it loosening?
 
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If it was me I would put a lock nut on the thread outside the bottle, on the RH thread end. The bottle won't turn, so should secure both ends unless there is a swivel in the stay. ??
 
Maybe seizing wire would be better in this application.
I thought seizing wire would be better in every application - but apparently lots of split pin lovers in this thread!

What do people like about split pins, over seizing wire?
 
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