Quick anchor windlass: has become noisy and often trips circuit breaker

[noelex]

A simple line or short snubber with a soft shackle or chain hook works to take the load off the windlass, but it is worth considering a chain stopper as an alternative. There are advantages and drawbacks. The main advantage is the chain stopper acts as an automatic one way clutch.

 

[Neeves]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news.

This was on a cat, a Fountaine Pajot I think, with a large deck locker - a bit like ours large enough to get into comfortably. They were taking water over the decks and the boat became more a more sluggish. They altered course and checked the bow locker -it was full of water., our would take a couple of ton. The drain holes had both been part blocked by the lines from fenders stored in the locker.

A highly respected yachtsmen, Commodore of a prestigious organisation, had a similar issue. This was a 37'ish alloy yacht He stored his garbage neatly bagged in the chain/anchor locker. He too was taking water over the bow - on arrival (wherever) he found the locker brim full of water - an errant tea bag had blocked the one drain hole.

Its a yacht - it will, or can, happen.

Try to protect the drain hole(s) they are usually small and easily blocked. They tend to be out of sight out of mind - having a grating that lifts the chain off the locker base should help (chop up an old milk crate until you get something better).

If our bridge deck locker filled with water it would overflow through the aft bulkhead of the locker, largish hole, high up, for the cables and fuel lines (and flood the electrics). I'm very careful!

Sikafelx where the gaskets were NOW - it will be a devil to clean them properly - later!

Jonathan

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I thought I'd done this edit, once, must have deleted by mistake

Motor position - PM sent

I like this sort of thing as a false base to a locker. They have 25mm 'holes' on top and 10 or 15mm holes underneath. The stuff is really robust. It s used for industrial flooring and pathways in national parks. and sometimes pontoons and marina decks. Locker are based in the UK, as well as Oz.

http://locker.com.au/industrial-flooring/frp-grating-industrial-flooring/

Really you need an offcut (as the sell in 4 x 8 (foot) panels - find out where they have a current installation. I purloined a free sample from their office here, to show people.

I concur with Noelex - and chain lock is the way to go - but they cost, yet more, money; they need a decent bit of deck on which to instal and really you need to add some reinforcing underneath. A minor issue becomes a major project. A chain hook, short strop and a strong point is all you need. The strop really wants to be inboard, you don't need to lean outboard. It is not for elasticity - just security. But recall - I'm a Scot - not mean just careful with hard earned money and simply do not throw money at an issue, unnecessarily - its a presbyterian thing (specifically small 'p')

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[BelleSerene]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news...
Sikafelx where the gaskets were NOW - it will be a devil to clean them properly - later!

OK, thanks. I hear the good advice. Will do.

 

[noelex]

I concur with Noelex - and chain lock is the way to go - but they cost, yet more, money; they need a decent bit of deck on which to instal and really you need to add some reinforcing underneath. A minor issue becomes a major project. A chain hook, short strop and a strong point is all you need. The strop really wants to be inboard, you don't need to lean outboard. It is not for elasticity - just security. But recall - I'm a Scot - not mean just careful with hard earned money and simply do not throw money at an issue, unnecessarily - its a presbyterian thing (specifically small 'p')

These are both significant drawbacks of a chain stopper. Many boats simply do not have room, the required geometry, or a deck area that can be made strong enough, but it looks from the photos like BelleSerene’s yacht would not have a problem with these issues.

While a chain stopper and a short line (or strop, short snubber or whatever term you want to use) have an overlapping function, they do not do the same job. For example, the load on the windlass with a wash or wave action when retrieving has been mentioned. A chain stopper keeps these higher transient loads from the windlass. So while a short line is much easier and cheaper it does not fully replace the function of a chain stopper.

A chain stopper is probably overkill for most boats, but it is an option that is worth considering, especially if you are planning on anchoring very frequently or in more difficult conditions. A devil’s claw is also sometimes incorporated into the chain stopper. A good time to think about whether these accessories are justified is when installing a new windlass.

 

[Neeves]

A chain stopper is probably overkill for most boats,

You are quite correct, the smallest chain lock that Lofrans make is for 12/13/14mm chain - they have voted with their feet.

I am sure there are smaller chain locks - but you would need to be convinced to search them out and then find a chandler stocking one.

If you use a claw on a strop and it attaches at the foot switches they are easy and quick to engage - I know, that's what we use - not quite as quick as a proprietary chain lock - but the issue of swell or wash - you can see it coming.

If you find 6mm and 8mm chain locks - I'd be interested as they can be part of any future similar thread.

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

You are quite correct, the smallest chain lock that Lofrans make is for 12/13/14mm chain - they have voted with their feet.

The most popular heavy duty chain stoppers are made by Maxwell, Muir, and Lewmar.

All three companies make models suitable for 8mm chain as well as larger sizes for 10, 12, 16mm chain and even models suitable for much larger vessels. So nearly all cruising yachts should find a model that is suitable.

6mm chain is not very popular for vessels that anchor overnight. There are plenty of lower quality simple design chain stoppers available for 6mm chain (see below for an example). I have only used this sort of chain stopper on small vessels without an anchor winch. I am not sure they would be strong enough for a 38 foot catamaran especially with thin chain where the gripping surface is less. The lack of a lever action would also make it difficult to disengage the chain stopper with the higher forces associated with a large vessel. However, the only way to be sure would be to try it out.

 

[Neeves]

Thank you Noelex.

I wonder how many yachts have a chain lock or stopper installed - as opposed to a chain hook on a strop?

 

[Neeves]

6mm chain is not very popular for vessels that anchor overnight.

This is a very valid point - but then galvanised 6mm chain with the strength of 10mm galvanised chain is only now a possibility and production runs of 6mm chain with the strength of 8mm (or 8mm with the strength of 10mm) chain only over the last 2 or 3 years. Traditional views are well entrenched and there is no attempt at marketing. Development has been slow as the focus is on a complete rode with matching accessories that are of compatible strength and actually fit - and everything has to be tested and tried. As you well know evaluating galvanising can take years - though there are ways to speed up the process.

Historically G70 (which in America was/is really only a "G55") the nearest equivalent product, was sold with no matching accessories - making it very difficult for an owner to match shackles, swivels (or equivalent), chain hooks, rope (for second rodes) and even windlass. The best equivalent is actually Cromox - but it has the disadvantage of cost but you can buy a complete matching system - and it is being sold at sizes 'smaller' - because it has that great strength, being a G60.

But the results are very encouraging across the HT supply and interest higher than you might predict.

Jonathan

 

[jdc]

As promised, some photos of boot and home-made hawse-pipe.
Locker:

It got rotated - I don't know how to stop this

Rubber boot.

As designed and installed it leads the wires up inside it. A recipe for water running down the wires and into the motor - just stupid! Instead I lead the wires out of the bottom: let gravity be one's friend!

Hawse pipe made from PVC gutter down pipe:

Projects only 120 - 150mm below the deck.

Hawse pipe viewed from above.

Its section is oval not circular. Just use a hot-air gun.

 

[Neeves]

Interesting pics

What stops the chain occasionally falling slightly out of line and then not falling down the hawse pipe but piling up on top and round it.

Might one add a funnel, conical device (like you get at the top of guttering downpipes) to help direct the chain flow and offer a bit of protection from water splashing. Though looks as thought it works fine - and the funnel would not fit an oval pipe!

Jonathan

Stupid Post - I've now worked out the pics are upside down - too early in the morning - please smile and ignore!