Protection for woodwork from stove heat

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Rafiki

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In the process of replacing my stove. The new one fits lower than the old one (moving it upwards would be a hell of a job I don't want to take on ). Perfectly usable in this lower position, gimballs correctly etc. The only problem is that the rather nice teak edges of the work surface will likely get badly scorched. I was thinking of 'protecting' them in some way with a screw on cover of some sorts - but what? Metal will conduct heat, so you dont solve the problem, plastic will melt. Is there anything else other than sacrificial strips of wood, which I dont really want as will be even nearer to the flame.

Any ideas?

Andrew
 
I'd use pieces of thin angle section in stainless steel. The fact that it conducts heat doesn't matter, it'll solve the cosmetic problem, which is your concern.
 
Stainless sheet, spaced slightly off the wood by slipping a nut or a stack of washers over the screws between the metal and the wood.

I don't understand why it's such a "hell of a job" to move the pivot points up a few inches though.

Is the lower cooker still ok when heeled fully over in the direction that swings the bottom towards you? It might move freely, but will it put the burners under the worktop behind it?

Pete
 
Rafiki said:
In the process of replacing my stove. The new one fits lower than the old one (moving it upwards would be a hell of a job I don't want to take on ). Perfectly usable in this lower position, gimballs correctly etc. The only problem is that the rather nice teak edges of the work surface will likely get badly scorched. I was thinking of 'protecting' them in some way with a screw on cover of some sorts - but what? Metal will conduct heat, so you dont solve the problem, plastic will melt. Is there anything else other than sacrificial strips of wood, which I dont really want as will be even nearer to the flame.

Any ideas?

Andrew
Click to expand...

Stainless 1mm thick or more screwed on with 3 or 4mm spacer washer at each screw to allow airflow between steel and teak edging.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
I would think that a metal shield should reflect radiant heat effectively without getting so hot as to burn the wood behind it.

You could chop up a silicone oven tray/heatproof mat and either secure it directly over the trim, or sandwich it behind a metal heat shield.
 
Stainless steel sheet does two things when you use it as a heat shield like this. It is very reflective which is the first thing. The second is that it conducts heat, so you don’t get such high temperatures as to scorch the wood. The heat spreads across the metal sheet so the temperature at the hottest part is lower than otherwise.
 
Stainless does not conduct quite so well as plain old steel, so the reflectve bit and a layer of insulation behind it (glass wood stove tape from B&Q?) should do it. An actual insulation is better that just air, as it stops radiant heat that will eventually dry out the woos and could cause spontanious combustion. Pretty unlikely with a galley stove, more a problem with a cabin heater like a coal/wood/charcoal unit.
 
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I think you would do better by raising the gimbals so that the stove is at the correct height relative to the work top. In my limited experience, the sides of adjacent cupboards are protected by thin stainless sheet and nothing else. I've never looked underneath it so don't know if the wood has deteriorated but it hasn't caught fire. Stove installation instructions usually stipulate an air gap between it and the adjacent woodwork.
Apologies if I have misunderstood your problem. As someone else said, a picture would be helpful.
 
When I put a new Nelson stove in my boat to replace a Vanessa, I raised the gimbals up which meant I gained a space below, for which I made a drawer. I did have to cut slots in the teak trim at the top for the gimbal fittings but it looked fine when finished.
 
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