Protecting Electrical Connections from Corrosion

Gypsyjoss

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 May 2008
Messages
268
Location
Midlands -a long way from the sea!
Visit site
Hi Guys
My recently purchase Cobra 850 has a fair few open connection blocks in various compartments.
She is now wintering in a yard on the Welsh coast where I'm relying on good ventilation for things to stay relatively dry.
Should I be spraying these connection blocks and cable connections with something like WD40 Silicon Spray to keep the damp out?

Cheers
Pete
(Ps. I'm used to dealing with the conditions of the relatively dry Med, not wet Wales)
 
WD40 certainly won't cause any harm, but don't expect 100% protection. The best protection against corrosion of electrical components, in my experience, is to keep them disconnected as long as you possibly can - simply power them only when being used. I solved this way my persistent problem with the anchor winch by simply moving the solenoid from the body of the winch right to the battery. Works magic :-).
 
Hi Guys
My recently purchase Cobra 850 has a fair few open connection blocks in various compartments.
She is now wintering in a yard on the Welsh coast where I'm relying on good ventilation for things to stay relatively dry.
Should I be spraying these connection blocks and cable connections with something like WD40 Silicon Spray to keep the damp out?

Cheers
Pete
(Ps. I'm used to dealing with the conditions of the relatively dry Med, not wet Wales)

I have been spraying WD40 (not silicon) on electrical conections, engines, shaft couplings, etc for decades and it certainly works as a corrosion protection and has not harmed anything. Spray once or twice per year.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Hi Guys
My recently purchase Cobra 850 has a fair few open connection blocks in various compartments.
She is now wintering in a yard on the Welsh coast where I'm relying on good ventilation for things to stay relatively dry.
Should I be spraying these connection blocks and cable connections with something like WD40 Silicon Spray to keep the damp out?

Cheers
Pete
(Ps. I'm used to dealing with the conditions of the relatively dry Med, not wet Wales)

Are you asking specifically about WD40 Silicone spray or about the ordinary WD40 Multipurpose spray

Many people prefer to keep silicones way from their boats .

ACF50 is often highly recommended, It is a similar product to ordinary WD40

Contralube 770 Gel is highly recommended for electrical contacts by those who have used it ....... but expensive and not so readily available.
 
Slathering lubricant everywhere tends to attract dirt and get on other things in the locker.
We're using boxes like this:
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30645
which keeps the electrolube in and water out.
It also allows the connections to be protected from strain and damage.

You can also make holes in them to mount sockets, voltmeters, switches...

For choice of what to spray with, I prefer a lighter silicone based product which doesn't leave the surface sticky or oily to the touch. Oil retains dirt. Dirt then retains water and salt, promoting corrosion.
 
Slathering lubricant everywhere tends to attract dirt and get on other things in the locker.
We're using boxes like this:
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30645
which keeps the electrolube in and water out.
It also allows the connections to be protected from strain and damage.

You can also make holes in them to mount sockets, voltmeters, switches...

For choice of what to spray with, I prefer a lighter silicone based product which doesn't leave the surface sticky or oily to the touch. Oil retains dirt. Dirt then retains water and salt, promoting corrosion.

Junction boxes are great and really all boats should use them on all the electrics, that would also apply to the fuse/breaker panels too. The reality is that it's almost impossible to retro fit them without rewiring.
 
My recently purchase Cobra 850 has a fair few open connection blocks in various compartments.
I am quietly replacing all the connection blocks on the boat with decent spade connectors, with heat shrink, covered female connectors and a good dose of WD40. Saves a huge amount of faffing about with screw drivers and, IMHO, gives a far more secure connection.

The major rewire is next winter. Last winter I removed all the wire that was not connected to anything - about 300m in all!
 
I would be interested to know why?

I can answer that from experience. Silicones inhibit the cure of many paints and sealants and are very difficult to remove. I believe that many instances of Sikaflex failure to cure, regularly reported here, is because the Sikaflex replaced a silicone sealant that was previously used. Paint films applied over silicone spray can be guaranteed to flake off, usually with a slimy surface beneath. I believe that it has a similar effect on polyester and epoxy cure.

Apart from all that, RTV silicones have only moderate adhesion and strength. There are engineered silicone systems that work well, my windows are bedded with one, but they were baked for 24 hours after priming.
 
I am quietly replacing all the connection blocks on the boat with decent spade connectors, with heat shrink, covered female connectors and a good dose of WD40. Saves a huge amount of faffing about with screw drivers and, IMHO, gives a far more secure connection.

The major rewire is next winter. Last winter I removed all the wire that was not connected to anything - about 300m in all!

Dave Berry's article describes the method used in military applications. It involves soldered joints, epoxy coating and double heat shrink before the epoxy cures. Apparently good for years submerged.
 
Silicon grease from a tube. Take connections apart, grease and put back together.
I thought silicone grease was an insulator not a conductor. That's why I was surprised to read that Icom recommend a smear of silicone grease on the charging contacts of their handhelds. Apparently the silicon grease prevents electrolytic corrosion, and the spring loading of the contacts is sufficient to make the connection despite the grease.
Vaseline on the other hand is an excellent conductor. A spray of Boeshield T9 every 6 months helps keep them dry.
 
I thought silicone grease was an insulator not a conductor. That's why I was surprised to read that Icom recommend a smear of silicone grease on the charging contacts of their handhelds. Apparently the silicon grease prevents electrolytic corrosion, and the spring loading of the contacts is sufficient to make the connection despite the grease.
Vaseline on the other hand is an excellent conductor. A spray of Boeshield T9 every 6 months helps keep them dry.

Most greases are insulators. It doesn't stop electrical contact being made though. I could say that the contacts never really touch on an atomic level. Silicon grease is better than Vaseline which tends to dry.
 
Top