Prop anode change near Largs ?

[dunedin]

Our boat tends to consume the prop anodes fairly quickly. Fit new one at lift in March, but tend to renew in the Autumn. (Other anodes, such as saildrive and fridge are fine, and galvanic isolator so not any issues - just the nature of the propeller materials.)

At circa £500 for a lift just for a 5 minute job, getting a diver to do the swap was a no brainer previously.

Unfortunately it would appear that Largs YH has recently imposed new rules that make it impossible for the people who used to do such dive jobs to operate there.

Any brilliant ideas to avoid a £500 expense just to swap an anode - or risk an expensive 3 blade Flexofold being damaged ? Other places nearby with diver services ? (Apparently Fairlie pontoon being removed for winter so not easy to do there)

PS Don't suggest I swim down to do it. Never dived personally and never will, particularly without any equipment in mid Scottish winter

 

[awol]

Just stoke yourself and a few friends up on Christmas food for a couple of weeks and then all stand on the bow - should get the prop out the water for<£500. Coincidently, I replaced my prop anode today - nae probs, but then I'm tucked up in the JWD shed!

 

[dunedin]

Just stoke yourself and a few friends up on Christmas food for a couple of weeks and then all stand on the bow - should get the prop out the water for<£500. Coincidently, I replaced my prop anode today - nae probs, but then I'm tucked up in the JWD shed!

Sounds like you have tested this - work well with long bow overhang. Not so good with plumb bow and prop nearly a metre underwater.

 

[Bodach na mara]

I used to do such operations against the jetty at Cardwell Bay, but that was when I kept the boat there. The only problem was that, as the tide was just about floating the boat, a wash from a ferry usually bounced it on the bottom.

 

[penfold]

Kip marina is the next nearest alongside mooring.

 

[dunedin]

Kip marina is the next nearest alongside mooring.

Yes, but wonder if they have the same H&S restrictions that makes diving apparently impossible, even for two qualified commercial divers

 

[Thistle]

Plenty of scope there for dropping the hook on a calm day somewhere outside the marina and letting a diver over the side, perhaps via a dinghy.

Now, what sort of anchor would be best for this?

 

[dunedin]

Plenty of scope there for dropping the hook on a calm day somewhere outside the marina and letting a diver over the side, perhaps via a dinghy.

Now, what sort of anchor would be best for this?

Yes, but would need a diver willing to work that way

 

[NormanS]

Surely there must be some pier or jetty, where you could dry out with the tide.
Imagination required. I wanted to do something similar at Puilladobhrain, so I anchored, with a line ashore from the stern, positioned so that the propeller was just clear of the water at low tide, with the water supporting the boat from heeling over. Easy peasy.

 

[penfold]

Yes, but wonder if they have the same H&S restrictions that makes diving apparently impossible, even for two qualified commercial divers

I have no idea, but it has different owners so may have different rules; a marina claiming authority over the H&S of a diver is hilarious. If marina operators are proving awkward perhaps try Silvers Marine or DRB in the Gareloch, as boatyards they may have more practical attitudes toward divers in the water.

 

[penfold]

Just stoke yourself and a few friends up on Christmas food for a couple of weeks and then all stand on the bow - should get the prop out the water for<£500. Coincidently, I replaced my prop anode today - nae probs, but then I'm tucked up in the JWD shed!

Can confirm; this is possible with a Hunter Impala provided you can get enough people on the foredeck.

 

[yotter]

As I understand, you need to change prop anode every 6 months, £500 x2 = £1000 per year. I would float test your propeller and get one which only need an annual anode. Or am I missing something?

 

[dunedin]

As I understand, you need to change prop anode every 6 months, £500 x2 = £1000 per year. I would float test your propeller and get one which only need an annual anode. Or am I missing something?

Previously was a single lift a year for antifoul and other checks. £100 in autumn for prop anode. All good
Its the sudden change of rules this year that has upset the process unexpectedly.

I find keeping the prop bare metal is much more effective in avoiding fouling - which was bad when persuaded one year to put antifoul type paint on the prop. But the downside of a bare prop is faster use of the anode.

 

[yotter]

I understand, and apologise for my sharp comments. It seems counterintuitive that antifouling a prop increases fouling, if I understand. Viv Cox will hopefully come along with his much respected wisdom re the anode issue.

 

[Bodach na mara]

Yes, Yotter is correct, the real problem is the excessively rapid depletion of the anode and not the means of changing it.

 

[Skylark]

I have a 3-blade flexofold on a Yanmar leg and it, too, eats the prop anode. Subjectively, painting the prop with Special Metals Primer improved life.

I dived under my vessel once per year for mid season scrub when I was in north Wales but I’ve not done that since being in the Clyde. My policy was to ask for forgiveness, not for permission, if questioned. Sadly, Nanny seems to have a heavier hands these days.

My monthly visits to Scotland are by train now that I’m on the hard for the closed season so I’m afraid that I can’t offer help until next Autumn. There’s plenty of shallow water anchorages nearby (ish).

Maybe search the BSAC website for local clubs; establish contact to see if anyone would be willing to help as a training exercise in exchange for beer tokens etc?

Just ensure that you have more than one anode, screw and Allen key, just in case the unfortunate happens.

Although I’ve not done it myself I have first hand experience of a pal changing his while snorkelling at anchor.

 

[Daydream believer]

Are there no sandy bits of beach that you could run aground on? Check out a likely spot at springs, so you can look for a boulder free area. Do the excercise at neaps, so you are well up the beach on a cleaner bit.

The idea would be to ground near LW & at such a state that the boat heals over only lightly & for a short while, Do not be completely dried out. You want to be in a state were you can wade about & get to the prop without actually diving (which you said you did not want to do in the opening post) You will have to reach under the water, but still stand on the ground. Just motor up to the beach, when ready & run aground, turning as you do so you are sideways on to the beach & bring the prop in a little shallower. Then tilt the boat shorewards as it dries.
A cheap, or borrowed, wetsuit would be essential. A ladder to climb down, tied to the boat so any current does not wash it away. Loosen the guard rail to make it easier to climb over. Have the dinghy launched for emergency & to place the tools & new anode in. Have a couple of spare bolts for the anode, because you know that you will drop one. Same goes for the allen key or screw driver. A friendly boat moored offshore while all this is going on might give you confidence.

 

[awol]

JWD do a lift and dunk for £25.50 per metre - still expensive but less than a monkey.

 

[Skylark]

JWD do a lift and dunk for £25.50 per metre - still expensive but less than a monkey.

Plus plenty of local expertise around to supervise ???

 

[awol]

Here are my prop anodes from this year (LH) and last, both after ~7 months in the pristine waters of the Clyde and points west and north. LH weighs 142gm (1.39N for the pedantic) and RH has 198gm of material. RH was loose and rattled, LH was protected with PTFE tape round screws, insulating tape round circumference and was still securely attached.