NAFS-YS
New Member
Do you consider applying some sort of Prop Speed on axle and propeller?
Princess 45 Refit
- Thread starter PaulRainbow
- Start date
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Never have yet.
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
So much room in the laz!
Id love to live aboard….but id be alone if i did
Id love to live aboard….but id be alone if i did
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
It's a bit like a tardis, but we've managed to fill it up.So much room in the laz!
Id love to live aboard….but id be alone if i did
oldgit
Well-Known Member
Same here.
Known several folks who have purchased this stuff.
File under
Adding Curry Powder to favourite A/F.
Adding Copper Power to any other A/F.
Coating prop blades with Lanolin.
Any type of "electronic" anti barnycule scarer you care you mention no matter how expensive.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Moving forward to the guest cabin, or as it's been renamed "Susans dressing room".
The vinyl is hanging off around the portlights and other places and someone has covered parts of it will some yellow fabric. Not to mention the million mild steel staples that have gone rusty! The woodwork is light oak throughout and in good condition. We want to retain the original feel of the boat so the vinyl will be replaced.
Removing the vinyl reveals some water damaged ply. Upon investigation it turns out that some guardrail stanchion bases are leaking. Princess didn’t through bolt the bases, they welded stud on the underside of them some of these studs had detached themselves so new ones were welded on.
This went in the skip. Before refitting the ply the wood was removed from the bottom and the void was filled with loft insulation in sealed plastic bags, as was the area around the portlights and above.
The vinyl was completely replaced and the stainless fittings cleaned and polished
New curtains, bedding and a TV. We bought an extra duvet cover and Susan cut it up to make matching curtains.
The vinyl is hanging off around the portlights and other places and someone has covered parts of it will some yellow fabric. Not to mention the million mild steel staples that have gone rusty! The woodwork is light oak throughout and in good condition. We want to retain the original feel of the boat so the vinyl will be replaced.
Removing the vinyl reveals some water damaged ply. Upon investigation it turns out that some guardrail stanchion bases are leaking. Princess didn’t through bolt the bases, they welded stud on the underside of them some of these studs had detached themselves so new ones were welded on.
This went in the skip. Before refitting the ply the wood was removed from the bottom and the void was filled with loft insulation in sealed plastic bags, as was the area around the portlights and above.
The vinyl was completely replaced and the stainless fittings cleaned and polished
New curtains, bedding and a TV. We bought an extra duvet cover and Susan cut it up to make matching curtains.
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
Lovely and fresh!
Skipper Felice
Well-Known Member
Wonderfull work - this explains how god you can do any kind of refit to older yachts - and you can improve the interior to your style.
Phil_boat
Well-Known Member
That's a big difference, looks ace!
Dino
Well-Known Member
Great job, the stainless frames polished up really well
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
I took the hinges and catches apart and soaked them in some oxalic acid, then polished them, they did all come up really well, as you say.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Time to deal with the lower helm.
Although someone had fitted a more modern helm, the radar and plotter were ancient and they had made a very poor job of fitting the engine gauges.
Ancient electronics, the radar actually worked, the plotter didn't
The walnut effect panel was not actually fixed in place, it just hung on the gauges, frequently falling down.
Removing the electronics leaves a nicely sized hole for some Android tablets.
Some wooden battens and a ply frame, ready for some Perspex to fix the tablets to.
Both tablets fitted, added a thin strip of Perspex below the tablets for extra support. Either can be used as a stand alone plotter, a mirror of one of the flybridge MFD’s, a monitor for the Victron systems or anything else a tablet can do.
Looking better, time to sort out the engine gauges, watch this space.
Although someone had fitted a more modern helm, the radar and plotter were ancient and they had made a very poor job of fitting the engine gauges.
Ancient electronics, the radar actually worked, the plotter didn't
The walnut effect panel was not actually fixed in place, it just hung on the gauges, frequently falling down.
Removing the electronics leaves a nicely sized hole for some Android tablets.
Some wooden battens and a ply frame, ready for some Perspex to fix the tablets to.
Both tablets fitted, added a thin strip of Perspex below the tablets for extra support. Either can be used as a stand alone plotter, a mirror of one of the flybridge MFD’s, a monitor for the Victron systems or anything else a tablet can do.
Looking better, time to sort out the engine gauges, watch this space.
kashurst
Well-Known Member
Using android tablets is a great idea. What nav software are you using?
What's the plan with the gauges?
What's the plan with the gauges?
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
I have a pair of Garmin MFDs on the flybridge, which is where i usually helm from, so went for the Android tablets at the lower helm. I'm using Garmin Active Captain, so no cost for that or the charts
In the picture above the left tablet is a mirror of one of the MFDs and the right one is acting as a stand alone plotter.
The tablets are Doogee T20s's currently on sale at Amazon for the ridiculously low price of £59.99 (no connection).
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
What year did you do the android tablets? Just wondering if I should claim bragging rights for giving you the idea
It’s a no brainer isn’t it and they work so well plus any app on the google store!
Looks awesome
It’s a no brainer isn’t it and they work so well plus any app on the google store!
Looks awesome
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
These were fitted 3 years ago, originally Samsung, but changed to the Doogee ones virtually identical size with the USB port in the same place. Had a Samsung one on the previous boat from about 2017.What year did you do the android tablets? Just wondering if I should claim bragging rights for giving you the idea
Yep, i have the Victron app on there, amongst others, but i've since fitted the Cerbo and GX touch, so it doesn't get used as much.
Thanks.
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
Damn it…..2021 idid these. There was me thinking i was “original” in my ideas
Dino
Well-Known Member
Great idea using the tablets. I’m going to replace my old Furuno radar with a Raymarine Quantum that will connect to my Axiom 9. I will have a gap left so I think I’ll get a tablet to run Navionics, Savvy Navvy, etc. The Doogee U11 looks decent and some packages have a mouse which could be handy.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Well that was the easy part of the lower helm job. Removing the walnut effect panel reveals this mess. I don’t think carpentry was a previous owner speciality, neither was wiring.
Then this, Oh dear!
Stop laughing at the back.
A new ply panel fitted for the replacement gauges. New gauges slightly bigger, so the holes have been enlarged accordingly. The new gauges secure the walnut effect panel. The switches are next to impossible to see as they are lying flat and they do not illuminate, so I cut a slot beneath the gauges for them. All of the switches were replaced by new ones that illuminate.
Gauges and switches fitted. Finding a full set of matching switch tops in the UK proved difficult, but I found a company in the US that had everything I needed. The warning buzzers, which were previously just hanging on the wires behind the gauges, are now fitted to where the key switches were, the key switches are being replaced by stop/start switches
What a mess! The thick cables are the engine harnesses, one from each engine to the three way adapter, one from each adapter to the flybridge helm and the final one, chopped very short, going to the lower helm instruments. It’s a miracle anything worked.
Removed the wiring and gauges, fitted a new ply panel and installed the new gauges. Also fitted the new switches and wired them up.
Made a new wiring harness for the gauges and connected it to the DIN rail mounted Wago connectors.
The connectors needed 2, 3 or 4 wires so for neatness I used 4 way connecters throughout. I divided them into three groups, port engine, starboard engine and everything else. The engine harnesses had been cut stupidly short, so they were extended using the original cable colours, soldered and heat shrunk. Bootlace ferules are crimped onto the ends of the wires, which are then inserted into the Wago connectors. A small screwdriver inserted into the square hole next to the wire releases it.
Top right in the picture is an Actisense EMU1, which is connected to the analogue engine sensors, converting the data to NMEA2000 and putting this onto the NMEA2000 network.
The panel next to the engine controls has the non-operational Cetrek autopilot controller and a redundant hailer/intercom fitted, both of which were removed.
In their place, an engine stop/start panel to replace the key switches removed earlier. The power switch operates a latching relay so the power can be turned on/off from either helm. Drat, mistyped "Papa", will correct that later as i have some EGT alarms to add to that panel.
All finished!
Then this, Oh dear!
Stop laughing at the back.
A new ply panel fitted for the replacement gauges. New gauges slightly bigger, so the holes have been enlarged accordingly. The new gauges secure the walnut effect panel. The switches are next to impossible to see as they are lying flat and they do not illuminate, so I cut a slot beneath the gauges for them. All of the switches were replaced by new ones that illuminate.
Gauges and switches fitted. Finding a full set of matching switch tops in the UK proved difficult, but I found a company in the US that had everything I needed. The warning buzzers, which were previously just hanging on the wires behind the gauges, are now fitted to where the key switches were, the key switches are being replaced by stop/start switches
What a mess! The thick cables are the engine harnesses, one from each engine to the three way adapter, one from each adapter to the flybridge helm and the final one, chopped very short, going to the lower helm instruments. It’s a miracle anything worked.
Removed the wiring and gauges, fitted a new ply panel and installed the new gauges. Also fitted the new switches and wired them up.
Made a new wiring harness for the gauges and connected it to the DIN rail mounted Wago connectors.
The connectors needed 2, 3 or 4 wires so for neatness I used 4 way connecters throughout. I divided them into three groups, port engine, starboard engine and everything else. The engine harnesses had been cut stupidly short, so they were extended using the original cable colours, soldered and heat shrunk. Bootlace ferules are crimped onto the ends of the wires, which are then inserted into the Wago connectors. A small screwdriver inserted into the square hole next to the wire releases it.
Top right in the picture is an Actisense EMU1, which is connected to the analogue engine sensors, converting the data to NMEA2000 and putting this onto the NMEA2000 network.
The panel next to the engine controls has the non-operational Cetrek autopilot controller and a redundant hailer/intercom fitted, both of which were removed.
In their place, an engine stop/start panel to replace the key switches removed earlier. The power switch operates a latching relay so the power can be turned on/off from either helm. Drat, mistyped "Papa", will correct that later as i have some EGT alarms to add to that panel.
All finished!
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
This one was taken a little later, after i changed the VHF (again) and fitted the Victron GX touch and the weather station overhead.
