Primary fuel filter - there has to be a better way

Squeeze bulb priming

For somthing a blatantly obvious why are Europen boaters totally blind to using an outboard squeeze bulb primer! I think the value of this type in installation is 100% obvious to most anybody that has gone through priming a diesel engine in a vessel from both the practical and safety standpoint when you have to get your engine running after changing dirty filters in a seaway.
 
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As useful as a squeeze bulb is, at least in North America there are none approved for use in an engine compartment. If you were to have a fire there is a chance that the insurance would not pay out as a result.
 
Squeeze bulb

This solution has passed American Boat & Yacht Council appoval. I suggest you just forget about the politics of "squeeze bulbs" that come from ignorant boaters and the typical wharf rat that thrives on "dock talk". Totally legal for high flash point gasoline powered vessels.

Whilst your boater with this simple priming solution has changed and re-primed his filters and re-started is engine in a trice and his on his way out of danger, boater without is calling for assistance, who is the fool.
 
Latestarter
Beg to differ. see below. This is an exerpt from the same discussion on Sailnet with a comment by ABYC technical member Eric Johnson. If you are able to find a squeeze bulb with a rating of A1 or A2 (2 1/2 minute fire rating) it would work but no squeeze bulbs have that rating.
 
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What about squeeze bulb before?

Am I being stupid but what about fitting the squeeze bulb before the primary filter so that only the filter needs bleeding and not the whole system?

In the back of my mind, I'm sure somebody on here has suggested that before.

Shorn
 
While I have a friend that successfully fitted a squeeze bulb to his two-cylinder diesel over a decade ago for the reasons stated, might I suggest that adding an electric lift pump might be a good solution?
Such pumps are standard on Universal diesels (marinized Kubota blocks) and it works just great for bleeding the fuel system after a change of filters. You never turn the engine over, just energize the engine circuit and let the pump fill the filters and lines.

Ours is mounted in line with the Racor, which then feeds the spinn-on filter, and thence onwards to the high pressure injection pump. If anyone wants a picture link, I have one in a thread on fuel pumps and bleeding the diesel system over on another sailing site. Just let me know.
Regards,
Loren
 
Squeeze bulb priming

As for ABYC it just shows how inconsistant these guys are....Just like BSS.

To me, I 100% agree, it is a "safety issue"-- When you run out of fuel because of bad fuel management, low tanks, plugged filters etc, you need to get up and running.. Without a good priming system that will get you up and running, all else is just ignorance and dangerous, AND you are at risk..

With isolation valves, the critcal point that appears to be missed, fire risk is only in the "dead loop" this quantity small, the only issue is with someone that cannot see the forest for the trees..

ABYC certified surveyors and US Coast Guard guys in Southern California, that inspect pleasure and "Sub Chapter T" (Commercial vessels) have some brains..U.S. Navy also run counter Insurgency Willard RIB's with this get out of trouble fast, system.

Let ABYC understand how system works first, and then get get consistant.

Put the priming loop wherever you want, push though primary and "last chance" engine filter or put in between primary and engine makes little diffence. If you locate between your rock and gunk filter and last chance filter the purpose of the clear loop becomes apparent, if you have screwed up your filter change and you are pulling air you see it as plain as day.
 
not exactly on thread but if you have a system that requires priming like this
possibly in a seaway would it not be worth the cost of 2 primary filters connected in parallel with 2 , 2 way valves both systems primed , then in a seaway you can switch both valves and sort it out at leisure
 
Fergie
Yes, that does make sense. As does a Racor filter with a built-in priming pump. As does a separate electric fuel pump installed for priming. As does a rubber priming bulb but I wouldn't use it. If there is a fire insurance companies and adjusters will look for a reason not to write a check. Using non approved fuel lines would be one and using a bulb that is not approved for engine space is another. As none are approved for this you're taking a chance, however small. As stated insurance companies, at least in North America, rely heavily on ABYC for guidelines. It's everybody's choice.
 
Double double

Fergie,

If you have well thought out multi stage filtration, that is the secret, particularly with modern common rail diesel engines you eliminate the need for dual change over filters as you have satisfied the all the fuel system requirements for a bulk separation and then fuel polishing prior to last chance engine filter. This set up was designed by folks who understand requirements of modern marine motors and the need to absorb large quantities of crud without the engine seeing any restriction at all.

As to squeeze bulbs, I will stick to the common sense approach adopted by Californian ABYC surveyors and USCG inspectors, however I do accept that California is perhaps less a part of the U.S. than B C.
 
Latestarter1
B.C. hasn't much to do with it as my information came from Maine USA. ABYC is only a guideline not a law in the US and Canada follows ABYC in many cases rather than create regs of our own. The issue as I read it is that the insurance adjusters see ABYC as gospel and aren't too open minded about variances that aren't stated by ABYC.
 
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Back to the original post by davidej. Congratulations on your purchase. I'm sure you'll have great fun with her. I've had the same boat for 4 seasons and she still brings a very broad grin to my face each time I step aboard.

My experience of changing the fuel filter is that, even when the cam is in the right position, it does take a lot of pumping on the lever. Tenacity is required but sooner or later flow will be re-established. I tend to prime the bowl and next season I'll experiment with an off-line suction bulb or a hand vacuum pump. Never had to do it anger, fortunately.

(Great tips, Stu, as always!)

David
 
I opened my January 2010 PBO, which was delivered by post this am, and see the rubber squeeze bulb solution has received the official Pat Manley seal of approval

I should have waited a few days and then I would not have had to bother all you very helpful souls.
 
Am I being stupid but what about fitting the squeeze bulb before the primary filter so that only the filter needs bleeding and not the whole system?

In the back of my mind, I'm sure somebody on here has suggested that before.

Shorn

Although my fuel tank is above the primary filter, I have one squeeze bulb between the tank and the filter, so it is before the filter.
If need be, I can change the filter and prime it in less than ten minutes, though I usually take more time as I replace all orings in the CAV head and it takes a bit more.

I do not know your engine, but in my Perkins 4108 the lift pump is on the opposite side of the injection pump, and there is no way (except transplanting a couple of Orangutan arms) I could move the lift pump and check fuel flow at the priming bolts in the injection pump, so a longish hose allows the squeeze bulb to be taken everywhere around the engine and leisurely squirt diesel all over the place :laugh:

The full length of the hose+bulb could be kept outside of the engine locker.

The only drawback is that the bulb works in non-filtered fuel, so it might get a bit dirty inside.



I would add: if you pump fuel *into* a CAV filter, it is easier to see if there are any leaks
 
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The ideal is a small day tank, higher than the engine, filled by hand (preferred) or electric pump. If your particular injection pump will run on a gravity supply alone, then fill the day tank with the engine lift pump, with an overflow back to the main tank.

Then you have a gravity feed which, if it leaks will only leak out and not stop the engine, with small sump provides a muck trap, puts the main filters where you can reach them, and can be filled from an emergency supply if any other problems occur.

Most people have not got the space for this, unfortunately, it used to be standard rig on a lot of French fishing boats.
 
Go to ASAP and buy this ( as shown in "Little Ship" post)

FUEL FILTER with PRIMER 2xM14 PORTS
OEM CAV type single fuel filter with built in hand primer pump. Flow max 45lph. Generally for engine mounting, but can be bulkhead mounted. Typically used as final filter. Features standard 296 type element. Head has two M14 female ports.
EACH £37.2i
 
Hi All,
A few points: Yes, bleeding the filter(s) by turning the engine over is rough on the high pressure injection pump--so is running out of fuel. Most new ones on smaller engines are fuel lubricated, so no fuel, no lube.

Usually, if you just CAN'T get the darn thing to fill, you do have the pump on the cam, OR, you didn't get all the fiddely seals setted so it's leaking a tiny bit of air.

The CAV filters are a b**** to change and seal in a seaway, and then trying to bleed the system while pitching about in there with a hot engine is just a treat you'll only want once.

Which brings me to my solution: 2 CAVs, 1st one has a bypass so if I start to feel that old stutter that signals a clogged filter, I just bypass the 1st and keep on going. After the 2 CAVs I installed an electric (12v, from the auto shop) fuel pump that I use to bleed the whole system whenever I need to open the system. Okay, I couldn't be satisfied with well enough, so I also ran a T valve off past the electric pump with the other leg going back to the tank via the engine return line. So now I can flip on the electric pump and return valve and run all my fuel thru the first 2 filters in a few hours (also works as a transfer pump between my two 500L tanks.)

As you may surmise, all this followed one of those experiences you only want once. Hope you all install a system like this so that you'll never need it.


This is an excellent system and many dutch sailors adopt this mainly for the ability to polish the fuel if the presence of bugs is expected.
 
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