PaulGooch
Well-Known Member
Not precise ones, however it seems to be about 50l/h or 2nmpg at a 3000rpm (25 knot) cruise. I'm on outdrives though.
That's not bad, no doubt the out drives are helping, along with the reduced weight and windage.
Not precise ones, however it seems to be about 50l/h or 2nmpg at a 3000rpm (25 knot) cruise. I'm on outdrives though.
No doubt the kad44 pr 300 versions will deliver the best speed.
I've worked on quite a few shafts prestige 32 and 36 models.
Were do I start?. Well there a great boat for what you pay, glitz is good, what else could you buy for the money that has a proper moulded star case to the fly, has gloss wood finish with a fairly modern look, probably nothing , but where in my view they fail is cheap fittings, cheap sterngear that's simply corrodes away, poor quality skin fittings that are also no bonded to the hull system, no anodes above the shafts, instead you have to buy expensive prop nut anodes and for a back up fi shaft anodes, all because they don't fit hull anodes above the shafts. Recently I saved an owner for his boat sinking as the engine inlet valves, fittings and hull scoops were just totally rotten, to the point where a sea start engineer snapped off the inlet hose, luckily above the ball valve trying to sort an engine overheat.
You just don't get that kind of quality on a uk boat.
Engine room, a typical fit engines then build the boat around it attitude, whereby filters on both engines are not a routing fit, which entails time removing cushions, seat bases, false floors etc, you then have to be a midget or have arms 5th long to reach simple things like a fuel filter, in my book a pain to work on and not safe at sea in the event you would need to get at them in a hurry, also the pre filter is under the exhaust hose in the rear lazarette, who thought that one up! Fuel and a fire together , great idea! And if the motors ever had to come out you would need a shipwright to chop out the floor panels and remove the patio door. Kad 44 and 300 models need valve check every two years which is a real job to remove the necessary pipes etc before the rocker cover can be removed. Hope that helps.
Must admit access on MF w/ single engine is straightforward
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At 22kn you would prob get nearer 60 - but mine sat nicely at at about 25 and we tended to cruise at about that on decent seas. I found that bimbling at disp speed - c7-8kns was economic - hardly used much fuel at all as the supers and turbs were not in and RPM was about 1300. Then rising up through the hump to about 17/18 where she would sit up nicely on the plane. From memory, 3000rpm achieved about 20kn, 3500 about 25 and WOT about 30 and I had rope cutters fitted. All with reasonably clean bum and props.
As others have said, the shafts and all the advantages they have cause a trade off in engine positioning and access and fuel use. The nuisance things are engine access because the salon floor has to come up and most of the seat cushions have to come off - but.... you do get used to this and once the panels are up, you can just about get to things - though tightening the alt belt or changing the impeller on the port engine is a pain.
If you do buy one, I have a few tips and preventative measures to suggest too.
Have fun.
No to the P32 then and back to Sealine or similar.
A shame as VP says they do look the part.
Engine access was a major concern when I was searching for my present boat and will be for the next.
Good luck on your search Paul. Keep us all posted
Paul, Im a bit biased towards the P32, the comfort of having 2 motors (ok twice the servicing costs) on some of your offshore trips ?
I know the Nanni is a great engine, can you get the MF925 with one, would
it be bit enough ?
Have you thought about actually working out the cost "difference"in running both boats, sure the P32 will be more, but maybe not that (hopefully)great in scheme of things ?
When I bought my P32, my wife was suddenly very keen to come and spend more time and nights onboard, changed our boating totally.
Thanks for that Paul. I wasn't expecting the engine access to be too spacious and i realise many twin engine installations in this size boat will be tight, but this sounds a bit poorly designed too. Some of it doesn't entirely surprise me. As much as i like my current boat, it was built with a few poorly thought out things, like fitting a filter to the bilge pump behind a panel in the locker, that requires the locker to be half emptied and the panel removed.
It's been suggested that i try to stay away from engines with too much electronics and working with modern cars for a living, mostly diesels, i'd prefer to do so. However, i don't think i'll be able to. The other boat i'm interested in is a Merry Fisher 925, engine choices are D4, KAMD300 and Nanni 320HP. My thinking is that the bigger engines would be better choices, not working so hard at cruising speed and possibly using less fuel (MPG) as a result. Any thoughts or experience here Paul ?
I think in light of the above, and the fuel figures the Merry Fisher 925 is back to top of the list.
Hmm tough one, the d4 will be more economical at the cost of servicing and any edc issues that need a dealer to sort, not sure about the nanni 320, what's the base unit motor? The land cruiser/ similar 6lp block? Or a new common rail thing.
Paul to give you some real time fuel figures this was from our trip to St Katherine's Dock
Jeaneau Merry Fisher 925 volvo D4 260hp engine. The trip took 4.5 hours and burnt 150 litres of fuel to travel 80 miles outward bound.
David
but where in my view they fail is cheap fittings, cheap sterngear that's simply corrodes away, poor quality skin fittings that are also no bonded to the hull system, no anodes above the shafts, instead you have to buy expensive prop nut anodes and for a back up fi shaft anodes, all because they don't fit hull anodes above the shafts
The skin fittings on my 2004 Jeanneau Prestige 34 were brass and were noted by the surveyor as starting to de-zincify (sp?). The ball valves though were DZR, not sure about the tails. Broker thought they were fine, but as one was jammed open I decided to get the whole lot (3 in all) replaced with bronze fittings.
My skin fittings aren't bonded, however I'm not convinced it's necessary. Those on my Hardy were and there was a continual green verdigris forming on them though they were always dryDon't think the fitings on my Sealine were bonded either, if memory serves.
There is a hull anode on my boat, dunno if factory fit.
Just a general point on build quality, I think the standard of electrical, plumbing and engine installation is extremely good, and is way better than on my previous boats. For example all hoses are double clipped and have those little rubber caps to prevent you slashing your hand open on the tail, wiring is sensibly bundled and runs in conduit wherever possible, all wires are coded at both ends so can be traced back to the relay board and switch panels. The quality of interior fittings is not going to worry Fairline, but is IMO perfectly acceptable and doesn't feel cheap, e.g wood grain is matched across the runs of locker lids.
VolvoPaul, is this something the 925 has in common with the 32/36? I am hoping to get one soon but some of your comments are worrying me.