Potential new boat owner advice please

[QBhoy]

Yep, inboard diesels with straight, (Non leg), drives are very economic but only good for slower full displacement use. Outboards are a real horror story in fuel consumption terms, but good for high speed planning boats.

I’d probably suggest that perhaps that thinking is not so relevant these days. I’d even suggest that there just isn’t a marine engine out there more efficient than a modern outboard. Pound for pound.

 

[QBhoy]

Agree not ideal but don’t be put off. You see many boats like this on the Thames, Lake District and Norfolk Broads etc and they seem to survive with continuous low speed usage.

They survive…but not without issues. They just don’t burn cleanly at low load use. Many owners won’t be too aware of it, apart from a few tell tale signs like oil diluted with fuel…Smokey running. The true horrors in relevance to the health of the engine after such use…only becomes evident when someone else buys the boat and puts it in open water…only to discover the engine can’t perform as it should…has worn badly internally, lost some of its compression etc etc.

 

[TNLI]

They survive…but not without issues. They just don’t burn cleanly at low load use. Many owners won’t be too aware of it, apart from a few tell tale signs like oil diluted with fuel…Smokey running. The true horrors in relevance to the health of the engine after such use…only becomes evident when someone else buys the boat and puts it in open water…only to discover the engine can’t perform as it should…has worn badly internally, lost some of its compression etc etc.

If you buy a boat for use on the canals or rivers the engine size must match the required speed restrictions. If not then using a low load will result in long term additional wear to the top end, although you can dodge around this issue by buying a modern common rail diesel with the associated ECU, those largish engines are incredibly efficient, but more expensive.
If you are stuck using less than 1500 RPM on an older non close tolerance diesel like my BMC, change the oil more often, use a direct feed injection cleaner like Liqui Moly diesel purge to fill up the secondary fuel filter when changed, and decoke the engine when it starts to get smoky, although the best decoke is 75% of max continuous RPM for 10 hours. That can be done by towing a sea anchor if you have a speed limit, or lashed to the canal bank etc.

 

[QBhoy]

If you buy a boat for use on the canals or rivers the engine size must match the required speed restrictions. If not then using a low load will result in long term additional wear to the top end, although you can dodge around this issue by buying a modern common rail diesel with the associated ECU, those largish engines are incredibly efficient, but more expensive.
If you are stuck using less than 1500 RPM on an older non close tolerance diesel like my BMC, change the oil more often, use a direct feed injection cleaner like Liqui Moly diesel purge to fill up the secondary fuel filter when changed, and decoke the engine when it starts to get smoky, although the best decoke is 75% of max continuous RPM for 10 hours. That can be done by towing a sea anchor if you have a speed limit, or lashed to the canal bank etc.

Spot on.

 

[oldgit]

Agree not ideal but don’t be put off. You see many boats like this on the Thames, Lake District and Norfolk Broads etc and they seem to survive with continuous low speed usage.

+1.


Over many years the Thames (and the Broads) has proved a handy source of secondhand boats with stone age engines commonly VP 40/41 /60/70 series ,for us on the Mudway.
You name it, we have bought one.
Brooms of all flavours, most recent Broom 44 with Perkins M 300C .
Princesses of every sort. Byrons old 435 ended up down this way.
Fairlines of all sizes. Sedan36 and Turbo 36 by the dozen.
Colvics and other stuff.etc etc.
These boats then are exposed to the real world.

Outdrives crapping out. Clogged up cooling systems. Totally blocked fuel filters. Empty drinks lockers . .....Yup
Difficult to discern if any boat retired up there after a hard life life on salt water or spent their entire lives at 8 KPH on freshwater.
But never yet even heard any boat desperately needing remedial engine work from bore glazing.

 

[Chris_d]

The river Kennet is basically the Kennet and Avon canal so you need a canal boat or a very small low cruiser, a Sealine 285 won't get under most of the bridges. You would best be looking at Narrow boats if you really want to be on the Kennet.

 

[ashtead]

I guess if you break down on the kennet it won’t be that far to be towed home or find a bank to tie up to. There’s lots written about use of engines at low speeds -best get a view from an engineer on state of motor before you buy I guess and just factor in cost of repairs into budget. I trust you find something suitable ,just take some time kicking the river equivalent of tyres and ensure you buy from a reliable broker etc ie ask what people think of the broker involved for your target model.

 

[Momac]

Re the river it runs through our premises we don’t back on to it or anything. So I’m just assuming we can keep it there for free? Surly I wouldn’t have to pay anything? Of course though I’d get insurance.

You should not assume anything and you will probably find you do need to pay to moor a boat.
If it is C&RT water be aware the R.Thames is EA water - two different licensing requirements but you can get a license that covers both.

 

[Momac]

 

[Momac]

 

[Sneds]

I’d be looking in Norfolk for an ex hire boat, Elysian 27 perhaps?
Ni out drive, no electronics control the engine. Simples.

 

[Edharris]

Again Thankyou for all your replies / help. The river actually runs through our premises / land it’s not at the end of the garden or anything like that.
Anyway it’s more finding a boat I’m more worried about. Apparently there isn’t any bridges we can’t get through to get to the Thames as they are all lift bridges. I’d definitely like something I could take on the sea in the summer. I guess I’d trailer it to the sea. Is there a maximum size you can toe?

 

[ashtead]

You might read the thread on the jeanneau cap re 5.5 m versus 7.5 m on towing requirements -a lot seems to turn on weights /width and what’s doing the towing in summary. If you say what you will be towing with that will no doubt elicit views on weights etc-it’s the length of trailer based on what I read not vessel.

 

[Bigplumbs]

You can tow a Sealine S23,24,25 but it is a big scary beast and you would have to ensure the trailer is up to muster

 

[Edharris]

I’ll either be towing with a Audi rs6 or a transporter t6.1 I’m guessing the transporter will be rated to take more weight. I’d make sure my trailer is up to the job. One boat I saw online today was 3800kg so assuming this would be too heavy under a normal licence and my vehicles?

 

[russ]

I owned a sports boat whilst on the Thames. Great times but a few points to think about.
A single drive deep V hull will require constant steering corrections at low speeds.
A boat having side decks would be best when inside locks rather than passing through a wind screen hatch. Petrol is cleaner and quieter than diesel but not as easily available.