Portable generator - shore power substitute.

pongoglo

Active Member
Joined
28 Sep 2006
Messages
63
Location
Portsmouth
Visit site
Im currently looking at portable generators, and would be interested to hear from anyone who has been down/considered this route. Be keen to know which model you went for and what factors you considered? Im on a pontoon mooring without shore power so am looking at a 1-2.6 KV portable generator to charge the batteries/jump start the engine etc plus run a fan/oil heater when onboard over winter. Noise is not too much of a factor as Im normaly the only one mad enough to overnight at this time of year, although I would like to get the weight down if poss. Before the 'incoming' starts to fly I would like to emphasise that Im not planning to use it at sea, and am well aware of safety issues when concerning 240V afloat. It would live in a locker when on the move. Im currently looking at one of these...

http://www.powerland.co.uk/product_info....cf11bec35b660ce
 
The biggest problem specing a generator is that most makers give a power rating at a power factor of 1.0 however this is the perfect world and not you.

You should spec your generator at a power fractor of .75 which means you can realistically expect about 3/4 the output on the box.


This is all to do with the phase relationship of amps and volts which varies as per the inductance/capacitance of load. Just be aware that a 2.5 KW machine might struggle to run a 2kw fan heater!!!!!
 
I'm also kinda tempted by one of the B&Q cheapies, but know that I don't need one.

As the Honda ones are rather more expensive, here are some thoughts.

(1) The yard I'm on at the moment has power for power-tools.
(2) I can hand-crank my engine.
(3) I've got a portable jump-start thing to use on recalcitrant motorbikes - that's normally a short row away from our swinging mooring in the boot of the car, but I've never had to use it.
(4) I've got a Sterling alternator regulator (& thinking about a solar trickle charger)
(5) I've got diesel heating.

A genny would help with the lack of all of those, but is sub-optimal for 'em all, IMO.

OK, heating is the most expensive, but if I were you, I'd consider which problem is most pressing, and maybe think about the alternator reg & solar (& some thermals ;-)

Are you certain your batteries are in good nick?
 
You quote up to 2.6 KV .... I take it you mean 2.6KVA ... that's already a serious number and throws out the normal run of small portable suitcase jobs.

I have a Briggs and Stratton HandyPro 3400 ( 3.4KVA )machine wich has extended 12hr tank etc. and is excellent. But it really is a 2 man affair unless you get the wheel kit to go with it. This is a horizontal setup.
They do a slightly lower rated 2.5 - 2.8KVA machine with shorter run tank ( 2+hrs I think) and thats in a vertical configuration with wheels. That would be a better bet and meets your power max. It's an excellent machine and if you need reliability before looks - then thats my suggestion. But they are not quiet as the Kipor / Honda mini jobs.

take a look here at the line up available from them ...

http://www.briggsandstrattongenerators.co.uk/

and not to forget that they will quote full price - ebay and various online people do sell at discount to what above quotes.

Here's mine that stands ready to take over my house needs when mains fails :

http://www.briggsandstrattongenerators.co.uk/pages/Briggs_Pro_Classic_3500L.htm

Slight name change due to market ... It's sat out there in rain, snow, all the weather for 2 winters now and still starts and runs like new. It just has a simple tarp cover over top.
 
I had a (2001 vintage) ride on mower with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It reminded me of the 1940s vintage mower we used to have when I was a boy. No comparison with a modern Japanese engine like Kubota or Honda.
 
I use a B&Q petrol genny and have rigged up a three sided noise shield, when used on the Thames this summer I didn't recieve one complaint and I asked other boaters if it bothered them, all were fine with it running. I connect it via the shore power lead and use it the change the batteries, power the fridge and computer charging. The genny onlt struggles when the Mrs trys to hoover up a bit, so I turn of all the other items just to keep her happy.

I keep thinking of installing an inboard unit but shy at the 3,000. squids. now thats a lot of beer tokens.

/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
My Jonsered Lawn Tractor has a B&S power unit ... very good and doesn't look vintage at all - in fact is more compact than MD and other makes I looked at. Plus it's the Husqvarna tractor just rebadged with lower price tag ... same engine etc !
 
I've got one of the 1kva B & Q cheapies, bought for £90 on a Wednesday. It lives in a locker, and comes out on deck if required. No bother. It's really there as an emergency back-up, but it would allow me to do some maintenance work, far from the madding crowd.
 
My portable job for partys, work away from house etc. is a Wolf 700 job ... about 45 quid I think it was.
Needs a pop of petrol in the plug-hole for first start after standing - but once run starts and stops fine. About the best 45 quids worth going !

Must admit for on-boat carriage and beach use - the Kipor my mate has is very good and a couple of Db quieter than my Wolf - but it's a lot more dosh for same power output.... about 650W cont. max
 
Question ...

Why is KVA quoted higher than KW 's ..... both are basically units from Volts x Amps ....... is it that KVA is quoted before losses ? Theoretical power and KW is actual delivered ?

My B&S quotes 3.4 KVA and 2.8KW ....
 
2 things, to answer your question, i have a kippor 2kw which always starts, runs a fan heater, microwave and anything else i need though not all at the same time. Its a suitcase type and quiet and i paid £300 inc vat. Now you mention that you are aware of the problems of running a genny at sea. Please explain as i may not be as aware. Thanks
 
Re: Question ...

[ QUOTE ]
Why is KVA quoted higher than KW 's ..... both are basically units from Volts x Amps ....... is it that KVA is quoted before losses ? Theoretical power and KW is actual delivered ?

[/ QUOTE ]

Simple question - very complicated answer!

Simple answer - for reactive loads, which are loads containing capacitance or inductance, the apparent power is greater than real power, because the energy storage in the loads result in a time difference between the current and voltage waveforms. This would include equipment like computers and motors. For purely resitive loads like lightbulbs there is no distortion of the current waveform - so WATTs = VAs.
 
Top