Lakesailor
New member
Forget the 14 and 16. I confused myself there.
Plywood beams
- Thread starter themoose
- Start date
themoose
New member
Yep, got to that age myself!!
pyrojames
Well-known member
You may have to hand pick the pieces you use, just to make sure you don't have any large knots in unsuitable places.
themoose
New member
Yep - I will certainly do that.
themoose
New member
[ QUOTE ]
I woudln't turn your nose up at European redwood. It is the main structural timber for housing
[/ QUOTE ]
Bought 14 metres of the stuff this morning 25X75mm machined. I'll laminate these to make the beams. Cost me twenty quid vs. the one hundred & twenty quid I was quoted for the mahogany! Nice tip!! If it turns out to be no good or I botch it it won't be the end of the world. Cheers!! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I woudln't turn your nose up at European redwood. It is the main structural timber for housing
[/ QUOTE ]
Bought 14 metres of the stuff this morning 25X75mm machined. I'll laminate these to make the beams. Cost me twenty quid vs. the one hundred & twenty quid I was quoted for the mahogany! Nice tip!! If it turns out to be no good or I botch it it won't be the end of the world. Cheers!! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
phil_tiz
New member
My twopennyworth if it's not too late, epoxy or resourcinal fine, (not epoxy for oak - tanin, or teak or iroko - too oily) Don't steam and laminate, one or the other. Bandsaw with a good blade for a suitable gluing finish. Cut laminates as thick as will bend without breaking, about 4mm for 150mm radius (on the ring frames on my current project)
LostinFrance
New member
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Someone else told me to laminate boards together then saw the desired shape.
[/ QUOTE ] Do you talk to the village idiot a lot then? That would sacrifice any structural integrity in the timber and leave you relying entirely on the bonding quality of your adhesive. Open-ended grain on wood may split. Make use of the natural strength of the wood and add to that the multiplier effect of bonding layers of wood together, following the curve of your beam.
[/ QUOTE ]
Well this is so late I don't suppose anyone will notice, but isn't that exactly what ANY laminating is relying on? It doesn't matter which way the laminations are running does it? They are all held in place by glue, and in the case in the photo (normal method) under stress. Always trying to straighten out, unlike the other direction where the natural growth of the wood resists bending.
Furthermore, although I would probably carry out the work as in the photo (joiner, boatbuilder), I can assure anyone here that the beam WILL have some spring laminated like that, but it WILL HAVE FAR LESS spring if laminated the other way and cut. And the laminations will not be under stress. Unlike me.
Thing is, when you laminate and bend timber you need to select it and make sure you do a good job. It's very important to make a jig for the correct curve plus a bit more because when you release the cramps it will always spring back a little, ruining your carefully planned job because the arc will not be as planned.
'Course if you do it like the original builder it's easier to cut the right curve. And more rigid. But more expensive.
[ QUOTE ]
Someone else told me to laminate boards together then saw the desired shape.
[/ QUOTE ] Do you talk to the village idiot a lot then? That would sacrifice any structural integrity in the timber and leave you relying entirely on the bonding quality of your adhesive. Open-ended grain on wood may split. Make use of the natural strength of the wood and add to that the multiplier effect of bonding layers of wood together, following the curve of your beam.
[/ QUOTE ]
Well this is so late I don't suppose anyone will notice, but isn't that exactly what ANY laminating is relying on? It doesn't matter which way the laminations are running does it? They are all held in place by glue, and in the case in the photo (normal method) under stress. Always trying to straighten out, unlike the other direction where the natural growth of the wood resists bending.
Furthermore, although I would probably carry out the work as in the photo (joiner, boatbuilder), I can assure anyone here that the beam WILL have some spring laminated like that, but it WILL HAVE FAR LESS spring if laminated the other way and cut. And the laminations will not be under stress. Unlike me.
Thing is, when you laminate and bend timber you need to select it and make sure you do a good job. It's very important to make a jig for the correct curve plus a bit more because when you release the cramps it will always spring back a little, ruining your carefully planned job because the arc will not be as planned.
'Course if you do it like the original builder it's easier to cut the right curve. And more rigid. But more expensive.
LostinFrance
New member
Cuchilo, I used to have a lovely 1 1/4" chisel like that, but someone nicked it from me. Thats not mine in your pic is it? It's got Marples (my last name) written on the handle. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif