Plastic Laminate Adhesive

[Ian_Rob]

I am wanting to face a 15mm x 550mm x 350mm sapele frame with plastic laminate leaving the edges exposed.

I happen to have an unopened can of 3M Fastbond Contact Adhesive 30NF which I was planning to use but I was using Evo-stick Wood Glue Exterior (Fast Setting Formula) over the weekend and from the product data sheet see that it is also recommended for bonding plastic laminate to wood. I wonder if any forumite has any experience of using the Evo-stick product for this purpose?

 

[Refueler]

Not Evo-Stick ... but for small to medium sized jobs - I use UHU Por Contact adhesive - which is plastic / foam safe ... and works with near all materials.

But for your lamination, which is quite an area - I would be looking to use a floor based contact adhesive that can be spread easily and thin to lock that laminate down.

 

[VicS]

I am wanting to face a 15mm x 550mm x 350mm sapele frame with plastic laminate leaving the edges exposed.

I happen to have an unopened can of 3M Fastbond Contact Adhesive 30NF which I was planning to use but I was using Evo-stick Wood Glue Exterior (Fast Setting Formula) over the weekend and from the product data sheet see that it is also recommended for bonding plastic laminate to wood. I wonder if any forumite has any experience of using the Evo-stick product for this purpose?

If you use the wood glue you will have to weight the laminate down evenly until the glue has dried .
.

 

[Gadget257]

I have a similar project using PVC panels (for the heads) and was going to use Premierbond HT Hybrid Grab Adhesive.

 

[VicS]

If you use the wood glue you will have to weight the laminate down evenly until the glue has dried .
.

OTOH positioning will be easier, if that's an issue, than with a contact adhesive.

 

[Ian_Rob]

Thank you. I don’t think positioning is going to be an issue as I will oversize the laminate and rely on the router trimming the laminate as I cut the final aperture to size.

 

[deeb]

Contact type adhesives are OK for bonding Formica Type materials to timber based cores, but for a really good bond use PVAc or U/F (or polyurethane, even epoxy) adhesive - but you'll need to get an even distribution of weight across the whole surface by using weights (carefully, it has to be even) in a vacuum bag or better still in a press . Contact type bonds depend entirely on the skill of the operator, and are significantly weaker in all circumstances. It makes it harder to achieve a decent stick.

U/F and polyurethane would also be a bit gap filling. If using PVA check its a waterproof grade for marine use

Its a small panel and if you have or can borrow plenty of cramps I'd avoid contact bonding every time. From the sounds of it this may be most appropriate.

It all circumstances "balance" the panel (i.e face both sides) or it may pull the job out out of flat (in joinery terms "winding"). Don't oversize the laminate by more tan 10mm or so as it is very fragile until trimmed level, most bearing guided router cutters will do an ok-ish job at this, don't hesitate to finish off with a file and / or sandpaper (even a cabinet scrape) - any raised bits will be sharp and profile a purchase to lift the laminate off, so you want to make sure you're properly level with this

In my professional life (now over) I laid hundreds of thousands of sheets of the stuff.

 

[Ian_Rob]

Thanks Deeb. That’s really is helpful. I was veering towards using the contact adhesive but your post makes me think that the Evo-stick Wood Glue Exterior I mentioned above, is the one I will go with. My plan is to laminate over the entire frame, insert a sacrificial piece of MDF in the aperture to support the laminate and then rout the aperture and the laminate in one go using a template/guide bush.

I am two minds whether to have a balancing laminate on the reverse. The sapele frame is mitred at the corners and reinforced with loose tenons and is very rigid but….?