Also just a point is that when an installation is new it does take a few hours to fully expel all the air from the system and then they output more heat. They do normally get to the point where its hard to hold your hand in front of it when its running after about 10 mins of running at full power though. Is the pump correctly angled up at the outlet and the pipe going up from pump to heater?
OK, that’s probably about right - it was around half as quick as the video.
Thanks, the pump is angled and the pipe from pump to heater is going upwards. I’ve probably run it now for about 4-5 hours in total (I ran in for 2 hours or so last weekend whilst working on the boat).
Just to push for a bit more detail as I suspect I have had a similar issue. I seem to remember on first install an error code repeatedly came up for several cycles which you said was normal. Was that error code 13? We don't use a lot of diesel so our tank in September could easily be dismissed as old fuel - but surely the display unit would indicate an error code rather than run but not provide proper heat. Appreciate you say I could test with a fresh can of diesel.
Whats the ducting run like? Any restrictions can cause it to go into overheat mode and slow down or even stop until it cools down again?
Yes that would be error 13 (failed to start) measuring output air without ducting is fitted is a good way but to be honest what we use is the diagnostic tools and laptop and read combustion chamber temperature instead which is hotter and a much more accurate reading.
I find with condensation if you leave the hatch a bit open it all goes out that way. Then yoy keep the efficiency. Each to their own. I also don't like nasty locker smells being sucked into the cabin but its up to the end user. I do whatever they wish.
Thanks Owen. I've got a tank virtually full of new fuel so I will give it a good test in the next couple of days.
The ducting is pretty straight - certainly no tight bends on anything like that but i did try this without the ducting and again, wasn’t much better.
A 2kW is a small unit for a large volume boat like that. I have a 4kW in a fairline phantom 40 and its roasting within an hour. It recirculates air as well so is making the most of the power. Sailing yachts have a much smaller interior volume so a 2kW will do a larger length boat without issues. However around 30ft is where i consider a 4kW anyway. Its often space for ducting that decides in the end.the 4kW uses 90mm ducting instead of 60mm for the 2kW.
Our 2kw Planar (supplied by Owen) on a 32 foot Sadler has been faultless for 3 seasons. If anything it runs too hot at the lowest setting! But I lagged every inch of the ducting and set it up to recirculate from the cabin. We don't seem to suffer from excessive condensation but we always have some flow of fresh air in the cabin. Without doubt it has been an excellent purchase.
Chinese 4(5)kW and 2kW are more or less the same size as a 4kW Autoterm heater but a 2kW autoterm is smaller.
I think that’s not quite right - or at least there’s a bit more to it. You can get a 2kw ‘Chinaspacher’ that is physically a fair bit smaller than 5kw one - though the smaller heaters are hard to find because what is also sold (more commonly), is a 5kw (large body) de-tuned to give 2kw max.
