Pin sized hole in steel outboard fuel tank - seagull!

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Trevelyan

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Hi all,
I went to start my seagull engine (kept as a novelty for seagull racing - we have to get through winter somehow!) to discover that the "new" (well, second-hand) fuel tank that I'd bought for it and fitted has a pin sized hole in the bottom. First headache of 2016! Any pointers as to how to fix please? I'd thought of:
-solder
-epoxy
-some other kind of filler (JB weld)
-some kind of treatment to seal the tank on the inside

The type of tank I have is shown below (this isn't my actual tank)
90_Tank.jpg

The last tank had rotted through (badly, finger sized holes) on the seam between the top and bottom sections, and a bodge job with something like JB weld was applied. This turned out to be a bad idea as the tank rusted on the inside, then all of the rusty sludge found itself into the carb - arrrghh.

Alternatively if anyone is a seagull expert, is it possible to retrofit an oval tank (brass) or one of the later plastic tanks to this type of seagull?

Cheers,
Trev
 
How to fix it?

Carefully! I've heard rumours of people causing explosions whilst welding old fuel tanks, even after cleaning.

Have you tried giving John a call at Saving Old Seagulls?
He usually has plenty of spares for sale. Dont forget to note the engine number.
 
Solder works, but I would source a brass tank as if you have one pin hole, others will be along soon.
Second for Mud's Saving Old Seagulls.
 
Mud said:
How to fix it?

Carefully! I've heard rumours of people causing explosions whilst welding old fuel tanks, even after cleaning.

Have you tried giving John a call at Saving Old Seagulls?
He usually has plenty of spares for sale. Dont forget to note the engine number.
Click to expand...
Bin it & get a brass tank the steel tanks were a cost saving mistake
 
I agree a brass tank would be more sensible than attempting to repair a steel one. ** (£30 though from John Williams)


JB Weld perhaps for a temporary repair

If you realy want to waste time and money on the steel tank then look at POR15 Motorcycle Fuel Bike Tank Repair Sealer Kit http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-c...ts/por15-motorcycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html

** If replacing note which end you need the fuel outlet .

Some Seagulls had plastic tanks. I think they followed the useless steel ones. May be worth checking out as an alternative to brass.


It is possible to take the brass ones apart , bash out the dents and solder back together if you get a badly dented one. ( £15 from John Williams)
IIRC Horsley-Anarak described the procedure in detail a while back on the Saving-old-Seagulls forums
 
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Trevelyan said:
Alternatively if anyone is a seagull expert, is it possible to retrofit an oval tank (brass) or one of the later plastic tanks to this type of seagull?
Click to expand...

As far as I know, the Forty / Silver Century engines all used the same cylinder head mounting points for the tanks, which are therefore interchangeable. There are standard brass tanks, long range brass tanks (wider), standard steel tanks, long range steel tanks (like yours) and long range plastic tanks. Perhaps there are standard plastic tanks too.

I may have a battered, soldered and not-leaking standard brass tank knocking around, which you could have for a suitable pittance. If you want to mend yours, I have had very satisfactory results with "Petro Patch" epoxy putty (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Granville-0455-Petro-Patch-Putty/dp/B004OS8N1W) which kept the petrol in my Herald tank for 20 years.
 
Any epoxy should work OK.
It will need degreasing first, hot water and washing up liquid should do it.
Then drying, I'd use a hot air gun, but only after I knew it had been cleaned as above.

I'd guess the rust get into the outside of the seam, as the petroil should look after the inside?
So running hot epoxy over it should last a few years.
If the tanks has lost any strength, you could add some glass tape.

Years ago I had a little Suzuki bike which had a tank leak from rust behind the screwed on badges. Epoxy, probably Araldite, worked fine on that.

I'm assuming seagull racers don't use any special wildly epoxy-dissolving fuels? :-)
 
Another vote here for the Frosts repair kit - £40 I think and very good, though if you can get a brass tank for less that would obviously be the way to go.
 
I repaired a couple of identical tanks for my dad earlier this year. I use a tank sealant. Tape over the holes from the outside, pour the sealant in. Invert the tank until its completely covered and then drain back into the tin. Permanent repair and also seals the rust inside!
 
Hi all,

It sounds as though brass tank is the way to go, as most of the tank treatments cost more. I've also discovered that what I thought was one pin hole was actually four, so would rather not try to fight a losing battle with a steel tank.... so brass it is.

My next headache is mountings, as my existing tank has mountings as below:
IMG_2363.jpg

There seem to be two types of brass tank out there,
-the first one has two bolts sticking out of the tank itself to bolt to the block,
[haven't found a pic]

and the second seems to have a curved plate which bolts to the block and the tank is then strapped down
round tank and bracket.jpg

Can anyone tell if both fit the silver century block please?
The other thing is that the motor currently has a very useful carry handle (see pic above), so i'd like to keep that if I can, so the second type (plate) might be better as I can fit this with longer bolts and keep the existing bracket on the block too (will have to chop the uprights I guess).

Cheers,
Trev
 
The standard 4 pint brass tank bolts onto the lugs on the cylinder head with some rubber pads, spring washers and self locking nuts

It has two little feet on the back which, IIRC, link internally to the integral mounting studs.

It is the long range (5½ pint) tanks which are fixed with the straps.

I suspect your original tank may have been a 1 gallon tank but you dont say what model engine it is. EFNR/Model 90 ?? and the carrying handle is part of the tank mounting bracket. Maybe you will be able to modify the bracket and still fit it and handle

But why don't you post your questions on the saving-old-seagulls forum? The people there are the experts ( fanatics) on all things Seagull, but quote the engine number they they will know exactly what model you have and what type of tank you need.

(some tanks have the outlet at one end while others have it at the other because the position of the carb varies)


Scan_20160104.jpg
 
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You can get rid of the petrol vapour by filling it with water then emptying it. Leave to dry before welding it.

I have a steel one that's in pretty good nick if you want it. I replaced it with a brass one.
 
Trevelyan said:
My next headache is mountings, as my existing tank has mountings as below:
View attachment 55319

There seem to be two types of brass tank out there,
-the first one has two bolts sticking out of the tank itself to bolt to the block,
[haven't found a pic]

and the second seems to have a curved plate which bolts to the block and the tank is then strapped down
View attachment 55320

Can anyone tell if both fit the silver century block please?
Click to expand...

Yes. Ultimately they all fit onto those two lugs on the cylinder head: the standard tank directly, the long range brass tank with the plate and straps and the long range steel or plastic tanks with the bracket you have.

If you are getting rid of your current tank I would happily buy the bracket from you, as I need one. Swap for a battered brass tank, if I can find it?
 
sailorman said:
DO NOT use water & know to my cost THAT doesnt work. I was fortunate not to lose the sight in the right eye
read post 8
Click to expand...
I don't think the car exhaust will be much good at removing flammable 2 stroke oil.
You want detergent IMHO.
 
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