Perkins T6.354 Water Pump

robbo1

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1 May 2017
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Hi all,
The story so far,
I had the fresh water pump reconditioned and managed to source a new backing plate and genuine gaskets to refit it all to my engine. I was advised by Perkins not to use any additional sealants when refitting as it would degrade the gasket material.
The pump has been refaced, the backing plate is new as are the gaskets and there is no sign of the block itself needing any work but I still have a little drip seeping through at one spot only when the engine is running.
The questions are should I have ignored the no sealant advice, What sealant should I use or how else can I ensure no leaks if I strip it all down and start again?
 
Hi all,
The story so far,
I had the fresh water pump reconditioned and managed to source a new backing plate and genuine gaskets to refit it all to my engine. I was advised by Perkins not to use any additional sealants when refitting as it would degrade the gasket material.
The pump has been refaced, the backing plate is new as are the gaskets and there is no sign of the block itself needing any work but I still have a little drip seeping through at one spot only when the engine is running.
The questions are should I have ignored the no sealant advice, What sealant should I use or how else can I ensure no leaks if I strip it all down and start again?

I’ve worked on or around all models of Perkins engines since 1980.
Whenever gaskets have been used on sealing water I always use blue hylomar , Perkins used to market it through there dealer network, they even had it in spray from an aerosol can .
Maybe the pump is leaking on the shaft seal.
 
The first time it leaked I also suspected the shaft seal so I sent it back to the pump specialists who then stripped it down again. No faults were found so it is definitely the joint leaking.
When I am next visiting the boat I will strip it all down and try again with Blue Hylomar.
Fingers crossed!!
 
I would not be stripping it down , I’d be buying a good pressure tester and test it cold so you can examine the fault over a cold engine , you should see the leak then move accordingly.
I bet it’s a simple fix, only a few weeks back I had a job where it wouldn’t leak until red hot under load, the system test showed the shaft sea leak straight away, there was a post on here from the owner.
 
At 7.46 when you are waggling the spanner the droplets of water visible in the joint move. I would suspect something is preventing the joint from closing tight, lack of thread on the studs, or something fouling.
 
Oh, good spot, I will strip it all down again and investigate further and report back, hopefully this is an easy fix!
 
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