Penta Saildrive 110S stuck cone!

Col661

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Hi all.

I'm struggling to remove the cone from my Penta 110S saildrive leg. Prop nut came out without to much swearing but the cone seems to be welded on! I have slid through the cone hole a 1/4" socket extension bar so have a good base to get some leverage on. I've then used a 12" long spanner over that to get about 15" of leverage. I've tried heating the cone, pouring lots of penetrating oil in and around, wacking it with a hammer.

I'm off today to get some 1m steel tube to make a cheater bar. Not sure what I'm going to do if that snaps the 1/4" bar or bends it!

Anyone else had a stuck cone and overcome this?
 

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I believe that VP may recommend a slide hammer for some tasks on the SD. I saw it mentioned in the manual, but have never needed one. Looks like your anode has been working well (or at least corroding well). I have the workshop manual for the 130/150 (which I can send you) but it may not include propeller removal. You may need more posts before I can PM you (5?).
 
Thanks. I've checked out some YouTube vids and I'm sure the prop cone is a left hand thread removal. Is on most sail drive units so it should unscrew but I suspect it wasn't put on with grease or hasn't been off in a while. Anode is aluminium and that was eaten up in 5 months. Boat originally came out of brackish water and anode is aluminium. Plan to replace with Zinc but need the prop off as well to do that. Prop needs replacing as well apparently as worn.

Think you can PM me.. manual would be very useful thanks!
 
Thanks. I've checked out some YouTube vids and I'm sure the prop cone is a left hand thread removal. Is on most sail drive units so it should unscrew but I suspect it wasn't put on with grease or hasn't been off in a while. Anode is aluminium and that was eaten up in 5 months. Boat originally came out of brackish water and anode is aluminium. Plan to replace with Zinc but need the prop off as well to do that. Prop needs replacing as well apparently as worn.

Think you can PM me.. manual would be very useful thanks!

If you search for it you will find a workshop manual for MS and 120S drives on line ......... sorry downloaded but no link ...... Does not help in this instance anyway but maybe useful in the future
 
VP propeller shafts turs anticlockwise whwn going ahead, ie left handed. Is this causing the confusion?
Yes I can see that Your prop is left handed.
Thats what made me wonder about the thread for the cone.
 
Ok so I am turning the right way..anticlockwise.

Yes.

I’m assuming that you are blocking off the prop to stop it turning ?

My yard had a very long rod that fitted the hole in the cone precisely. The cone never won.

However, as you are now in financially for a new anode, prop and bolt give the cone another hour then saw it off!

As long as you don’t get close to the splined shaft you should be fine … what are they … £40 on a bill fast approaching £500 ?

£60 anode, £380+ propeller *, new bolt £12, Trilux or whatever you choose plus you should now take the opportunity of draining the old oil out.

Ambassador Marine are a great company with what I consider to be the best product available and from memory will drill the prop for you … probably source one for you too.

*it needs drilling to accept the stripper lugs

details here. https://www.ropestripper.com/documents/fitting-sd120.pdf
 
Thanks this is really useful info!

Yes, I'm chocking the cutter with wood to stop it rotating. Although it mannaged to chew through an inch piece of hardwood so those jaws are sharp!

I'm off to B&Q tonight to purchase a meter length of steel tube to go over the socket extension and that should do it. I had thought about taking an angle grinder to the cone as its done anyhow. Least I have that as an option if the cheater bar doesn't work!

I'm so focussed on getting the cone off that I hadn't considered next steps being an issue. I know I have to get the anode bolts off and clean off the remaining anode but am I right in reading that a new prop will need some sort of modification to fit with the line cutter already on the drive? I was hoping that I could just buy new cone, prop and anode from these guys Volvo Penta fixed 2 blade Saildrive propeller, size 16 X 13, Part Number 21351240 and install as a factory fit?

Another question. I would consider a folding prop (maybe s/h) but seems to be many variants in terms of size, pitch etc. How do you know what fits best as I think its relative to the engine which is a Vetus M2.06?
 
Good luck with the tube … I’d be getting a little worried about damaging the shaft thread with the forces you’re using but not actually heard of that happening so should be ok ?

You have lost me re the anode … clean it off? You said you were changing to zinc which is the correct one for seawater AND it needs to be the modified Ambassador one!

Um.

Either way, you will need a modified prop for your existing cutter. Look at my links. You’ll see why.

Can‘t help re the folder … can of worms territory ??
 
Yes, going to be quite a bit of force but I'll heat up the cone first to give it the best chance. Its been sat with penetrating oil for a week as well.

The old ali anode looks to be part welded to the drive casing and around the securing bolts. Might take a little work to clean it up for the new zinc?

I've looked at your links and now I understand ?

Will give that company a call and see what the deal is. Hopefully can get it sorted quickly.

Great spot and you've saved me some time! Now have a couple sized steel tubes to try. Give it a go Friday!

Cheers.
 
I'm so focussed on getting the cone off that I hadn't considered next steps being an issue. I know I have to get the anode bolts off and clean off the remaining anode but am I right in reading that a new prop will need some sort of modification to fit with the line cutter already on the drive? I was hoping that I could just buy new cone, prop and anode from these guys Volvo Penta fixed 2 blade Saildrive propeller, size 16 X 13, Part Number 21351240 and install as a factory fit?

Another question. I would consider a folding prop (maybe s/h) but seems to be many variants in terms of size, pitch etc. How do you know what fits best as I think its relative to the engine which is a Vetus M2.06?

A 16*13 sounds a bit big for an 18hp engine. Normally that size engine would have a 15" diameter. My 30hp Volvo has a 16*13 as factory fit, although I have a FlexoFold 2 blade 16*11 which is perfect. You need a prop that allows the engine to achieve its full revs, in your case 3600rpm. If you are buying a new prop then get the supplier to calculate the size for your boat/engine/drive combination. The size may well be different between a fixed and folding prop as my example shows. If you do buy a fixed prop it will need the ridge machining off the face of the hub and the holes drilled for the drive pegs for the Stripper. If you buy a FlexoFold (highly recommended) from Darglow Engineering they will drill the holes for you.
 
Thanks for this.

I am going to get a quote from Flexofold to see what sort of price differernce there is for a fixed v folding prop while I'm replacing it. Totally understand the whole prop being matched to engine and I'll give whichever supplier the details of the engine to match. Have some calls to make today to see what's readily available as I'm planning to get the boat back in the water by end of Jan!
 
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