Penta 2000 series Injector sleeve tool

Ceirwan

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Quick question for the forumites who've undertaken an injector sleeve change before.

Is it possible to do it without the specialist tool? Are there (reasonably priced) after market tools that will do the job?

I've a Penta 2000, the current injector has been tested as basically crap, more of a stream then a spray pattern. I have a reconned injector that's been tested and found to be perfect. The only problem is the new injector just will not seal properly in the injector sleeve.

With the old injector the engine will start (though with a good bit of cranking, given the temperature. Even using the cold start), with the new injector the engine will only run if its already warm, and as its running I get fuel up the side of the injector.

I've tried a thin copper washer, but I can't get it to seal well enough to do the job.

Failing this then its cylinder head off to take it somewhere that does have the tool.
 
Leaking fuel from an injector pocket indicates a faulty injector and NOT a leaky pocket. If the injector joint in the pocket is leaking then you will hear a gas leak from the bore .
 
Leaking fuel from an injector pocket indicates a faulty injector and NOT a leaky pocket. If the injector joint in the pocket is leaking then you will hear a gas leak from the bore .

I assumed it must be leaking up from the injector.

I had it tested by a very respected local diesel place that does a lot of work on commercial and leisure engines marine and road and they seemed to think the newer one was OK.

I've been trying to solve a lack of power, flat out in gear the engine will only do 2500 rpm, whereas it should in fact rev to 3200 rpm. As you can imagine this leaves me short on power. The prop is the original volvo penta prop.

Last year I removed the head and had it skimmed, valves reground with new stemseals, the only issue I haven't been able to resolve is getting the engine to start with this reconditioned injector. Once the engine is warm then I get swap it in and it will start fine, but when cold it could literally take over 5 minutes.
 
Concentrate on the injectors and look for another injector servicing place. An injector specialist should have seen this leak between the nozzle and body and sorted it.
 
First thing, before doing any injector work on these engines drain the cooling system, if the sleeve moves with the injector you will drain coolant into the combustion space.

The tool is necessary as the sleeve is swaged to the cylinder head by an expanding portion of the tool, it is not just an insertion tool.

The set also contains a removal tool, be careful of digging around with sharp objects as an annular grove at the top end to take the o ring has been known to be somewhat fragile.

Never seen an aftermarket tool for this, as far as I can ascertain the genuine VP kit is now obsolete, I could stand corrected here.

As others have indicated, you should not get any diesel issuing from here, combustion gas if the injector seal has failed or on this particular series coolant if the sleeve is failing.
 
I had same issue as you.
Clean the pocket with a seat grinding tool and a little grinding paste with lots of grease to catch the loose abrasives and prevent them going into the engine. Then just pop in a thin copper washer, might take you a couple of attempts as you only want to clean as little as possible to reduce the amount of paste going in, in all I probably did about two minutes of grinding.
Worked for me.
 
Hmm.
Maybe its possible that the diesel was from the leak off pipe? And then running down to look like it was coming from around the injector. I have had trouble with getting that pipe to seal, I've since replaced the copper washers with dowty washers which has cured it.

Since it sounds like a volvo penta dealer job to change the sleeve I'll try using a seat grinding tool as suggested to see if that does the job. Realistically it just needs to get me through another couple of years and then if I still have the boat I'll probably replace it.
I'll try and find another place to check the injector just in case.
 
trust me its coming back up from the injector nozzle, its starts with a mild leak of diesel and as it worsens it starts blowing combustion gas.
when you do grind it use only a tiny dab of grinding paste it will only need a slight clean up.
 
trust me its coming back up from the injector nozzle, its starts with a mild leak of diesel and as it worsens it starts blowing combustion gas.
when you do grind it use only a tiny dab of grinding paste it will only need a slight clean up.

Thank you for this comment.
I as sure that it was coming up from the engine, and other posts around the internet suggested that this is a fairly common issue on these engines. But Bilgediver is convinced that it must be leaking from the injector itself, I'll just have to eliminate these things one thing at a time.

Either way the cheapest fix, grinding the valve seat is the one I'll start with!
How did you clean up the paste left inside the sleeve, a small rag on a screwdriver or something like that?
 
Yes, exactly that just rattled a screw driver around with a rag, its only a tiny bit needed to get back out as it should only be a tiny bit gone in as its only really the dirt / combustion products on the leak path that you are cleaning.
Are you aware of the precautions for removing the injector without disturbing the seal because if disturbed it will leak water into the cylinder.
 
When one of my injector seats was leaking i made a cutting tool from a piece of metal tube just slightly smaller dia. than the injector, i made 2 cuts on each side into the end of the tube about 5 mm deep and 5mm apart and twisted the tags by about 45 degrees. Rotate the tool in the sleeve for a minute and test, mine sealed on the second try and is still good 2000 hrs later. Just be gentle.
 
I borrorwed a cutter and did it today.

It actually took quite a while to get back to a clean surface, it was really really dirty. And once it was mostly clean I had to keep cutting as there were some quite deep channels in it, which I believe must have been caused by escaping exhaust gasses, got there in the end though.
Just took my time, changed the grease regularly and was very careful to clean the sleeve properly.
I fitted the injector with a new copper washer.

Unfortunately when I went to test, the engine panel appears to be dead despite the engine having power. Fuses all OK. So the test will have to wait until I troubleshoot that.
 
Can anyone recommend where to get the sleeves replaced if needed ?
I am rebuilding a spare head and would like to get these done but rather not approach Main dealer.

Any help much appreciated.
 
I borrorwed a cutter and did it today.

It actually took quite a while to get back to a clean surface, it was really really dirty. And once it was mostly clean I had to keep cutting as there were some quite deep channels in it, which I believe must have been caused by escaping exhaust gasses, got there in the end though.
Just took my time, changed the grease regularly and was very careful to clean the sleeve properly.
I fitted the injector with a new copper washer.

TAKE. THAT OUT

There should not be a washer used with copper sleeve


Unfortunately when I went to test, the engine panel appears to be dead despite the engine having power. Fuses all OK. So the test will have to wait until I troubleshoot that.
 
I have been working on a friends boat fitted with the Volvo engine. I was surprised there is no replaceable washer.
How many times can you change the injectors before the copper sleeves need to be changed?
 
The sleeves are no more available from VP....my mechanic in Poland (its the VP mechanic) build himself a special tool, but it did not work. Had to take the head of and he grinded the sleeves on the bench in addition he did the valves.
The overhaul of the head cost me € 300, but I had to take off and reassemble.
So if the ca, 60 year old Volvo Penta mechanic with a special tool doesnt get it done you will try it done with a KNIFE?
 
I borrorwed a cutter and did it today.

It actually took quite a while to get back to a clean surface, it was really really dirty. And once it was mostly clean I had to keep cutting as there were some quite deep channels in it, which I believe must have been caused by escaping exhaust gasses, got there in the end though.
Just took my time, changed the grease regularly and was very careful to clean the sleeve properly.
I fitted the injector with a new copper washer.

Unfortunately when I went to test, the engine panel appears to be dead despite the engine having power. Fuses all OK. So the test will have to wait until I troubleshoot that.
Just be careful putting washers in, you are adjusting the position of the nozzle poke through which can cause burning or blocking of spray patterns
 

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