Painting the decks

I have been using paint similar to Sandtex for some fifteen years now. I buy a 5-litre of white from a place called Homemate, choose a colour from a set of samples that they have and they add the colours on a machine that then shakes the plastic pail until the paint is blended. I don't even need to remember the name of the sample because if I just tell them my phone number they can get the details of what I bought on their computer.

Does it last? If it can stand being used on the outside walls of our houses through rain and sun it can certainly last at least three seasons on my decks. I have never needed to add any extra sand or other granules because, although the surface appears quite smooth, the extremely fine sand that there is in the paint is more than sufficient to resist slipping, even when wet. I apply two coats using a mohair roller.
 
Just finished mine, and used Primium paint, great product, goes on easy and only £12 for a litre tin...

Happy for you Bert, but what brand of paint is it?

Lots of conflicting or confusing advice about painting GRP, on boat-maintenance fora & manufacturers' sites - some say don't bother with primer (is that the same as undercoat?)...

...not many simple rules that can be relied upon. I'm just hoping that having applied paint-stripper and washed the GRP beneath with acetone, I can apply several coats of nice opaque undercoat, then top it off with a coat or two of my vintage tin-aged Interlux. Does that sound to anyone like a rotten plan? Does anyone know why some sources say primer isn't necessary on GRP? Or indeed, any reasons why I shouldn't use masonry paint?
 
You might find the paint company actually respond to an email. I used Teamac paint and got an answer from them straight away. Similar situation to you- changing the colour of the hull. They said the old one pack paint would be fine as an undercoat, no need to remove it, just key it with an electric sander and ensure no loose areas. Wipe away dust with white spirit on rags. Roll on minimum two coats of the new colour.
 
Happy for you Bert, but what brand of paint is it?

Lots of conflicting or confusing advice about painting GRP, on boat-maintenance fora & manufacturers' sites - some say don't bother with primer (is that the same as undercoat?)...

...not many simple rules that can be relied upon. I'm just hoping that having applied paint-stripper and washed the GRP beneath with acetone, I can apply several coats of nice opaque undercoat, then top it off with a coat or two of my vintage tin-aged Interlux. Does that sound to anyone like a rotten plan? Does anyone know why some sources say primer isn't necessary on GRP? Or indeed, any reasons why I shouldn't use masonry paint?

Sorry typo that should have been Premier paint ( schooner blue)
http://www.discountantifoul.com/premier-antislip-deck-paint-p-36.html
Just scraped of the old and painted it on!
 
Thanks Bert, Rob, the simplest answer is most attractive...but I've no clue how good or bad the existing paint was, one or two-pack, nor anything about its constituent parts.

The fact that the green is so very bright, seems to me to need some removing - otherwise I'll always risk having a new white deck with a hint of lime showing through... :(

Visited Force 4 today...they'd sold out of paint stripper. An indication of the busy time of year, or should I regard it as a hint? P'raps I should stop wondering and just get painting.
 
I might be wrong about this, but unless the old paint is in poor condition, removing it sounds like a right chore.
Fear of the green monster showing through will incentivise you to apply multiple layers of new paint.
And why do you aspire to own be an AWD anyway?
 
...why do you aspire to own an AWD anyway?

Experience. I now know, as do all who've owned an avocado bathroom set, that white is better. Actually the issue of glaring sun on bright white decks might make me pause again...

...but my solution to that problem won't be retaining glaring green fore & aft decks!

My green paint is transparent in places, bubbling in others and non-existent in large repaired areas. I wouldn't be able to match it if I wanted to. Truthfully, I actually like pricey tan Treadmaster most of all as a deck-colour. I admire laid teak aboard yachts, but I don't really like the glossy dark wood of dinghy decks - all very fine, but they don't look comfortable.
 
Dan. You are approaching it from the wrong direction. Whatever fabulous paint you put on, it will only have the adhesion of the green sludge to stop it falling off your boat. Rub it all down to gel coat. get rid of all the rubbish. Yes the gel coat will get damaged, but it will provide a good key. Then use a good primer, I would personally not worry about the undercoat, and a good gloss. In your situation I would be more concerned with abrasion than anything else, so would be tempted to use a tough domestic gloss paint.
I have used berger white gloss inside a tender and it was very tough, resisting attack by outboards and all sorts of paraphernalia.
Trouble is, manufacturers keep changing their paint recipes.
 
Thanks Lakey; are you saying I shouldn't use paint stripper, because the sludge won't leave the roughness which helps new paint to grip?

...use a good primer, I would personally not worry about the undercoat, and a good gloss.

Seems to conflict with various sites, which specifically advise undercoat but say not to use primer on GRP - because it's mainly for use on steel. :confused: Confusing.

I had the impression that sanding the green lightly, then using several coats of decent undercoat, will be enough to cover the greenery before using my unopened quality topcoat...but if I want to shift all trace of the old stuff, paint stripper would be the sensibly lazy way to go...and since Force 4 had sold out of paint stripper, and it was horrifically expensive through ebay, I was thinking of ordering nice opaque undercoat and relying on sandpaper and a thorough acetone wipe-over instead. Not good?
 
As you mention Force 4 I did my decks last year with a product I saw in their shop called Kiwigrip. It is available elsewhere also but check it out on the internet before making a decision on some cheapo substitute like "Sandtex" that will to be redone in a few years (frankly I'd rather be sailing). I have had numerous comments on the professional appearance of the finish and it is standing up extremely well, Could not rate it highly enough.
 
I ordered Supplyshed undercoat in the end, said to be for GRP, unlike many others which claimed to be primarily for use on steel. And, the Supplyshed stuff wasn't a silly price.

No idea how good it is - if it's halfway reasonable I'll be happy. Only question now is whether to pay lots for paint-stripper or a bit less for lots of sandpaper & dust masks...

...looks like a dry week ahead, so I reckon I'll start many hours of sanding this weekend. That's settled then. Definitely. Unless...anyone has a good word to say for paint-stripper?
 
Three solid hours of arduous sanding in the sun...and I barely shifted 3sq ft of greenery. The paint isn't specially hard, it scratches very easily, but it surely clogs the sandpaper.

So, I know the green has to go, rather than just be covered up; I also know it'd take a fortnight (and a small fortune in sandpaper) by manual means...so it has to be paint stripper.

Anybody know how toxic that stuff is? I bought Owatrol...I have it in mind to paint it on in the morning, then come back in the evening and spray it off with the shoreside hose...

...though it seems to say that warm water is more effective, sprayed through a pressure-washer. I was imagining a brush and hose would shift it all without leaving caustic remnants.

Is it best tested on a small area, first?
 
As you mention Force 4 I did my decks last year with a product I saw in their shop called Kiwigrip. It is available elsewhere also but check it out on the internet before making a decision on some cheapo substitute like "Sandtex" that will to be redone in a few years (frankly I'd rather be sailing). I have had numerous comments on the professional appearance of the finish and it is standing up extremely well, Could not rate it highly enough.

I'm thinking of stripping off some treadmaster and, as I cannot afford the TekDek that I would ideally be putting over the top, was wondering about KiwiGrip.
Is it gloopy/textured enough to mask any ugly bits left behind by the treadmaster? Or is it no different to other paints in this regard?
 
I'm thinking of stripping off some treadmaster and, as I cannot afford the TekDek that I would ideally be putting over the top, was wondering about KiwiGrip.
Is it gloopy/textured enough to mask any ugly bits left behind by the treadmaster? Or is it no different to other paints in this regard?

I painted my decks with kiwi grip, and I can confirm that it will cover any number of defects. It is very gloopy and in fact is best put on with some kind of spatula. It's expensive but in my opinion it's the mutts nuts!
 
+ 1, I painted our decks 5 years ago and they are still good. I have had to redo the cockpit floor each year as that is high wear, and have once redone the aft section of the side decks for the same reason. I am still using the original 5 L can and there is enough left for 2 or 3 more cockpit coats. Cost if I remember correctly was £9-99.

Has anyone used the Sandtex in white? I know everyone says not to because of glare, but the creams and magnolias look quite creamy rather than off-white.
 
Sandtex imho is a very poor substitute for the real thing. it is a bit porous ( water based ) & absorbs dirt unlike oil based paints

ok, my guru, I heed your advice. This is just to tart up Artemis and given her freshen. What do you recommend? I don't want to spend a lot as I don't yet know how much actual use I'll be getting.... by the end of next summer I'll know if she's a keeper :-)
 
Sandtex imho is a very poor substitute for the real thing. it is a bit porous ( water based ) & absorbs dirt unlike oil based paints

Not my experience with Sandtex. I have used it 3 times, in 20yrs, on the decks of Bigwow. The none slip areas look as if they were moulded into the original build. I always use white, it's a little bright at first but soon tones down.
 
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