Painting an anchor

Hi John (aka noelex)

I can stand and watch the chain run through a 'U' channel from the windlass to the bow roller on our cat. It twists as it runs (or drops), not much but it does twist (or untwist?). Apparently its a common issue (and I assume the reason for people using swivels). I do not know whether its the roller or the windlass/gypsy but it does twist (Vyv I think has observed the same phenomena, I think its been the subject of threads here at YBW). We see the same in reverse when we lift, in clear water we can see the anchor slowly rotating. Its not a function of anchor - but it might be a function of the chain. Because of this there is no way of knowing the orientation of an anchor when it reaches the seabed. It might be right way round, or back to front - if the latter when it falls it can land on top of the tripping line with float. I have known roll bar anchors land perfectly symmetrically and sit vertically resting on their roll bars. As the chain falls - even the chain can wrap itself round the shank (but we do not use a roll bar so its not an issue for us). I even have an image (but its a rare occurrence so not one to publish in case people think it common and it raises the ire of the roll bar manufacturers).

Its a yacht and if something cannot be predicted - it will happen!

Jonathan
 
Thanks to a funny little book called Royce's Sailing Illustrated, I started out painting my anchors white many years ago, and it is very useful in locating the anchor in our typically murky waters here on the East Coast of the USA. White shows up very well in the clear waters of the Bahamas and the Caribbean. I must admit I haven't painted any anchors white in recent years, mainly due to a lack of use of white paint for anything else onboard. I used to take the dregs in the bottom of the can after painting something and would slap it on the anchor quickly without any sort of prep. It lasts surprisingly well.
 
If the anchor is set none of the fluke will be visible anyway, so the colour mainly helps to show when things are wrong.

A small float, or floating rope, a couple of meters long, helps find the anchor even when its completely buried and is a worthwhile addition.


+1

Personally, if I'd be worried if I could see the anchor fluke, then either something is wrong either conditions are so benign it's no worth looking at the anchor. Actually 99% of the cases water is not clear enough :D

I use the float too, attached with a loop of rope; when grabbed with the hook it helps stabilizing and retrieving the anchor when it is up just outside the water and the boat goes rock and roll. Used in over 100 anchorages without tangling ever, fwiw.

Should anyone want to use one, choose a solid foam floater: I crushed two of those swimming pool empty plastic floaters because of water pressure ;)
 
If your anchor lives on the roller during the day, how about glow in the dark paint? You can get the rattle cans from B&q... I would imagine that would work well.
 
If your anchor lives on the roller during the day, how about glow in the dark paint? You can get the rattle cans from B&q... I would imagine that would work well.

Might be good on dark pontoons - but my experience of glow in the dark paints is that, well they don't (or not enough).

Kettlewell, good to see you back John!

Jonathan
 
Apparently there are lots of anchors stolen. Painting it makes it more identifiable and less attractive to thieves.
Florescent day glow green or red stands out well.
I did originally try coloured tape on it but it fades very quickly in sun and did not last well when immersed.
 
Many galvanisers will not re-galvanise a painted anchor (or charge more) so consider this before you get the paint brush out.

I've recently had my anchor and chain re-galvanized. Standard practice is to dip the stuff in an acid bath to clean back to bare metal before galvanizing. I imagine that if the acid can strip off old zinc and rust it will make short work of any paint.
 
I've recently had my anchor and chain re-galvanized. Standard practice is to dip the stuff in an acid bath to clean back to bare metal before galvanizing. I imagine that if the acid can strip off old zinc and rust it will make short work of any paint.

All chain undergoes an acid bath dip before regalvanising. If the chain is in poor condition, painted, badly rusted, etc., it goes through the zinc bath before the full regalvanising process commences, a technique known as 'burning off'. This adds 50% to the cost.
 
I always paint mine-it both protects the galvanising from deterioration and you can see whether anchor is set,tangled up etc when water is clear enough.As for colours green,blue,pillar box red,black todate all of which can be seen far better than dull silver.
 
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