Painting aluminium Hull

[Solent sailer]

We have an aluminium hull with 14 years of antifouling build up, I would like to have it professional stripped and re-painted – Primer – Epoxy – Antifoul.

Most places just want to blast it of and then patch up any dodgy looking patches on a dry day, I was thinking more of a temperature-controlled spray shed as if I wanted a “do it on a warm day” job I would just do it myself.

Paint doesn’t like sticking to aluminium at the best of times so I want to give it every chance.

Any ideas who could take on this sort of job? Ideally on the south coast or just across the channel.

 

[vyv_cox]

I assume you would need an etch primer to adhere to aluminium. I am not sure that you will find such a primer that can be overcoated with epoxy. Might need some research first.

 

[JimC]

I used to have an aluminium boat, a Sarum 28 made by British Aluminium Co in the 1970s. She was very rough underneath when I got her and I flatted her down with a disc sander, in places right down to bare metal, in places to soundly adhering old paint. I then put on several (4 I think) coats of Inerprotect. Alternate coats were different colours to make sure you didn't miss anywhere. Then 2 coats of Trlux A/F. I put on another coat of Trilux each year. I had her for 6 years and had no problems with the finish.

 

[ianabc]

I believe....

if sanding to bare aluminium.....

Rapid sealing with paint

after sanding surface is necessary.

 

[reeac]

I have an MGA roadster which has aluminium alloy doors, bonnet and bootlid. During restoration in 1981-3 I got the bodywork professionally resprayed and I recall that they used an etch primer. Still looks good but then it lives in benign, non- salty conditions.

 

[Mister E]

An Etch primer is normally used on bare Aluminium.
Without it you will probably get the paint flaking. An industrial paint supplies place will tell you what you need.
Jawel one that I can think of.

 

[Seajet]

I have used Dulux ( not a joke, excellent stuff ) Metalshield on alloy and steel successfully, brilliant paint - one part special Metalshield Primer then one part topcoats.

One yard I know with covered, heated paint shop/s is Hayling Yacht Co just inside Chichester Harbour - I don't know if a yard will apply ones' choice of paint in this situation.

 

[Solent sailer]

Thanks I will email them.

 

[Seajet]

If you mean for Dulux Metalshield, it's not usually available in places like Homebase but Brewers always have it, touchwood.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

You could try Hamble Yacht Services, They put epoxy and then CopperCoat on my boat (GPR) in 2013 after soda blasting the old antifouling paint off, and I was impressed by their facilities, they have paint shops which has a continuous flow of this kind of work.

Probably quite expensive.

 

[Yngmar]

Berthon is the sure bet, as they will have extensive aluminium experience from Steve Dashew's FPBs. They're probably also the most expensive one though

Probably quite a few Dutch yards that can do a good job of it too. Look for ones that build aluminium boats, they'll have the necessary experience.

I don't think etch primer is suitable if you want epoxy coats on top of it, but Interprotect is. The instructions must be very carefully followed, a thorough degreasing, then abrading and especially the part about no more than two hours between abrading the aluminium and it being covered in paint - and that's where most of the less aluminum experienced yards will probably mess it up, resulting in bubbling and flaking within the first year.

 

[Solent sailer]

Berthon is the sure bet, as they will have extensive aluminium experience from Steve Dashew's FPBs. They're probably also the most expensive one though

Probably quite a few Dutch yards that can do a good job of it too. Look for ones that build aluminium boats, they'll have the necessary experience.

I don't think etch primer is suitable if you want epoxy coats on top of it, but Interprotect is. The instructions must be very carefully followed, a thorough degreasing, then abrading and especially the part about no more than two hours between abrading the aluminium and it being covered in paint - and that's where most of the less aluminum experienced yards will probably mess it up, resulting in bubbling and flaking within the first year.

My first thoughts were Berthon, they have the kit and experence, we have been trying to get a price out of them since August!

 

[[70521]]

Contact Mylor Marina in Cornwall. They have a covered paintshed,

 

[Mikedefieslife]

I'm coming up to paint an alloy and finding that most I've spoken to just sand and paint with an epoxy primer, then whatever coating they want on top. Etching primers seem to have been banned in many parts of the world. Strangely I'm in a place where I can buy TBT bottom paint if I so wished (I don't), but not an etching primer.

 

[Javelin]

We have carried out a number of resprays on aluminium hulls and decks.
We've always used an awlgrip and results have been very good.
The biggest issue is ensuring you get all, and I mean ALL of the oxidisation corrosion off and then get the Awlgrip 545 primer on within an hour or so which requires good planning.
Only after the primer is on do you start to fair.
We've worked on a few Ovni's and they initially gave us challenges as when we removed the old paint, we discovered big areas that had corroded and pitted under the paint.
Only solution is to either blast if you can isolate or sand using 36grit or similar.
A lot of time is taken in tricky areas like corners, around welds, stanchion bases etc as you cant afford to miss anything because in three years it'll start bubbling back up.
Frankly its not for the faint hearted, whoever you get to do it make sure thay have an absolute bulletproof process.
One other area that is often missed is the dust, which will get everywhere.
Once the boat is in the shed we usually tent up at least twice.
The boat really needs either sealing or emptying or both. I remember cutting in a bow thruster on a ovni 435 and the vibration of the grinder was shaking dust from inside, from impossible to get to places, presumably created when we'd resprayed the year before.

 

[Rappey]

I had an aluminium boat for 18 years. Aluminium can be a right pain. I put a few self adhesive antislip rectangles on the deck. It badly oxidised underneath over time.
As javelin says, it needs very special treatment as sand it and the surface oxidises within minutes.

 

[Catalina36]

Pie dishes, yes, boats no.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

We have carried out a number of resprays on aluminium hulls and decks.
We've always used an awlgrip and results have been very good.
The biggest issue is ensuring you get all, and I mean ALL of the oxidisation corrosion off and then get the Awlgrip 545 primer on within an hour or so which requires good planning.
Only after the primer is on do you start to fair.
We've worked on a few Ovni's and they initially gave us challenges as when we removed the old paint, we discovered big areas that had corroded and pitted under the paint.
Only solution is to either blast if you can isolate or sand using 36grit or similar.
A lot of time is taken in tricky areas like corners, around welds, stanchion bases etc as you cant afford to miss anything because in three years it'll start bubbling back up.
Frankly its not for the faint hearted, whoever you get to do it make sure thay have an absolute bulletproof process.
One other area that is often missed is the dust, which will get everywhere.
Once the boat is in the shed we usually tent up at least twice.
The boat really needs either sealing or emptying or both. I remember cutting in a bow thruster on a ovni 435 and the vibration of the grinder was shaking dust from inside, from impossible to get to places, presumably created when we'd resprayed the year before.

The OP wants to strip the antifoul back to bare metal, apply a suitable primer and recoat. There was no mentiom of paimt

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

We have carried out a number of resprays on aluminium hulls and decks.
We've always used an awlgrip and results have been very good.
The biggest issue is ensuring you get all, and I mean ALL of the oxidisation corrosion off and then get the Awlgrip 545 primer on within an hour or so which requires good planning.
Only after the primer is on do you start to fair.
We've worked on a few Ovni's and they initially gave us challenges as when we removed the old paint, we discovered big areas that had corroded and pitted under the paint.
Only solution is to either blast if you can isolate or sand using 36grit or similar.
A lot of time is taken in tricky areas like corners, around welds, stanchion bases etc as you cant afford to miss anything because in three years it'll start bubbling back up.
Frankly its not for the faint hearted, whoever you get to do it make sure thay have an absolute bulletproof process.
One other area that is often missed is the dust, which will get everywhere.
Once the boat is in the shed we usually tent up at least twice.
The boat really needs either sealing or emptying or both. I remember cutting in a bow thruster on a ovni 435 and the vibration of the grinder was shaking dust from inside, from impossible to get to places, presumably created when we'd resprayed the year before.

The OP wants to strip a buildup of antifoul back to bare metal, apply a suitable pri.er and recoat. There was no mention of painting the topsides or deck.

 

[Rappey]

There was no mention of painting the topsides or deck.

We were using this to show the importance of prepping aluminium correctly for paint and the consequences if you don't.
Would apply even more so underwater ?
Most aluminium items on non aluminium boats are anodised or powder coated.