Painter’s Tape

Ian_Rob

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I always used blue tape but is there anything better than ScotchBlue Sharp Lines for achieving a crisp line when anti-fouling? Thankyou.
 
I have just tried almost every sort of tape, and most leave a horrible sticky mess or dont peel off and take ages..the best stuff I found was bog standard white masking tape !
 
I use generic (unbranded) blue tape for antifoul or non-cosmetic jobs. We used a whole case of something like ‘Dolphin’ brand for our osmosis/epoxy barrier/bottom job and it was flawless. It might be harder to get me to part with £5 for a role of painter’s tape in future!
 
I use generic (unbranded) blue tape for antifoul or non-cosmetic jobs. We used a whole case of something like ‘Dolphin’ brand for our osmosis/epoxy barrier/bottom job and it was flawless. It might be harder to get me to part with £5 for a role of painter’s tape in future!
It was Dolphin Blue at £2.50 a roll (much cheaper in bulk).

No need for petrol! (Or use the saving at the pump, where it’s needed most!)
 
Who cares about a sharp line when you are in the briney and motoring on?
I know - we’re talking about antifoul/bottom paint, right?! Wouldn’t waste 3M, Scotch, Frog etc. on that.
(Although a sharp line itself ain’t hard to get!)
 
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Cheapest white masking tape we can find. If you cannot finish the AF and need to leave it all over night - remove the tape and re-tape in the morning. Cheap, wet tape is a disaster in the making. Whatever solvent you use to clean off the adhesive dissolves the paint.

Cheap white tape leaves a crisp line with AF. If I was painting using an epoxy I'd use better tape but for AF it really does not matter.

We know that we are going to remove the tape in the evening if we do not finish - we will then add the second coat at the water line late in the afternoon, using a small roller, so the waterline is finished, remove tape and then not have to re-tape all the water line. For props etc - retaping is not difficult and does not use much tape.

Even dew overnight will ruin white tape.

Jonathan
 
In my experience, the trick is to stick whatever tape you use in place, then go over it with a thumb, applying firm pressure.

I did this with Toolstation's cheap and cheerful tape and it worked fine. No problem getting it off, but it was removed within 24 hours. I rather think that the fact that it was new tape, rather than the roll that's been kicking around in a damp locker for the last couple of years helped, both with the line and the clean removal.
 
As a painter and decorator im another for frogtape, they also do a "low tack" version which is good.
A tip for you is to use a light roller along the tape line when you get to that bit(one of the small radiator types) making sure your pressure is slightly down and across the tape. Many a neat painting job is ruined by using a brush along the tape with which the bristles and a flicking action can push the paint up and under the tape making all the taping redundant
 
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