Padeye without backing plate?

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RJJ

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Hi folks. I want to install a couple of padeyes on the foredeck to enable me to lash down the dinghy. They don't need to take rigging loads.

Construction is teak planks on foam-cored GRP.

Access internally is tricky and would probably mean cutting holes in the GRP cabin-roof mouldings. Is there a way of securing them adequately without doing this? Not sure self-tappers into epoxy would be strong enough to hold the dinghy against a big wave; I am wondering if there's any variant on a "blind fastening" that would spread the load more effectively.

Or do I have to bite the bullet and cut holes inside?

Thanks.
 
Agree with the above. Sooner or later there is likely to be a big shock load.

Sounds like you know the trick with foam core decks, drill (oversize) from the outside, through to the core, then use a bent nail or similar to destroy an area of the foam, then pour in epoxy, then self tap into that epoxy.

But your padeye fixing is still only as strong as self-tapper in epoxy.

I agree with LadyInBed that you would be wiser to bolt through to a backing plate - with whatever system you can devise to a) take the compression loads across the foam, and b) make it look OK inside.

Good luck
 
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LadyInBed said:
£69.20!!
Stainless Steel Folding Eye Plate | Marine Grade | GS Products £2.39
Now I will have to think about this, how many do I need? :unsure:
Click to expand...

£69.20 is chump change...

Antal make a really nice pop-up padeye for about £300!

SP10.48

I haven't ever used one of them.., but i have used their removable dyneema padeys. Those are nice and at £150 - for the small one - only half the price!

overkill for the present application, obviously..., but I'm not sure i would use that £2.39 one either. It looks like a poor casting, with rough spots that might chafe. I would probably use a Wichard or similar.
 
There are Dyneema rope pad eyes that come with bases which can be glued onto the deck. Obviously the teak would have to be cut, prepared, secured and sealed if attaching to a GRP deck below the teak. They look fairly straightforward to install.

Soft Padeyes – light, strong and versatile
 
Without a backing plate, or at least bolted through with penny washers at the back, you'll one day overtension them as a side load and they'll loosen or pull out.

I have the t-shirt.
 
BlowingOldBoots said:
There are Dyneema rope pad eyes that come with bases which can be glued onto the deck. Obviously the teak would have to be cut, prepared, secured and sealed if attaching to a GRP deck below the teak. They look fairly straightforward to install.

Soft Padeyes – light, strong and versatile
Click to expand...

Boats I have been on use them for lee cloths and things of that sort... nothing that will really get loaded

Also, I don't see it working well with a teak deck.
 
Laser_310 said:
Boats I have been on use them for lee cloths and things of that sort... nothing that will really get loaded

Also, I don't see it working well with a teak deck.
Click to expand...

Some the larger sizes are being used as chain plates for dyneema style rigging. There are various sizes that can be purchased.

The teak deck is not an issue as it can be cut through to the GRP neatly and finished neatly preserving integrity of the teak.
 
BlowingOldBoots said:
Some the larger sizes are being used as chain plates for dyneema style rigging. There are various sizes that can be purchased.

The teak deck is not an issue as it can be cut through to the GRP neatly and finished neatly preserving integrity of the teak.
Click to expand...

the post i was responding to was talking about _glue-on_ dyneema padeyes - i don't think anyone is using those for chain plates...

The through deck version are fine - i have sailed on boats with them used in highly loaded applications without problem
 
I agree with those who say the right way to do it is with a backing plate - If that pulls out, you'll have far worse things to worry about! However, if that isn't practical because of access, what about using SS threaded inserts?

blind_self-tapping_inserts_-_thumbnail.jpg

Drill oversize, hack the core out with an Allen key in a drill and fill with epoxy thickened with cotton microfibre, and screw this in. Many times stronger than a self tapper into the epoxy.
 
OP does not indicate if there is a gap between the deck and the ceiling . If there is might be able to find toggle bolts to do the job. Would need to be in stainless steel of course. Toggle bolt is where a plate goes through the hole attached to the bolt. Once inside it can flop sideways to make a cross wise bar. Often used for fixing to plasterboard walls. Like thishttps://www.bunnings.com.au/everhang-25mm-toggle-cup-hooks-2-pack_p3930168 The hole has to be bigger than you want to let the toggle through but this could be sealed with epoxy once it is in. I seem to think links have been posted fro SS ones on this forum in the past. This attachment might be considered strong enough. ol'will
 
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