Outboard through bulkhead starter cable connection.

davidpbo

davidpbo

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The cable from the battery to the outboard has to pass through 2 bulkheads, one between the cabin and a reasonable well sealed external storge locker and then again from the locker into the engin well.

The cable is fairly substantial I would guess maybe 6mm CSA or more (Can't see the ends because they are crimped). Is there a small neet connector that could accommdate this size cable, one of which needs to be panel mounted?
I am fairly well up on that sort of thing but nothing is springing to mind. I did consider Speakon but I think 4mm is the biggest cable they can take.

It did occur to me I could use copper threaded stud through the fibreglass bulhead, with crimped eyelet connectors on the cable. The outboard coming out is likely to be an annual service event (I now use a hoist or gantry) rather than regular so removing a couple of nuts is not unduly onerous. Is there anything readily available? of concern to me is insulation and mechanical protection.
 
My boat came with a factory fitted surface mounted socket on the transom into which fits a plug on the cable from the outboard. I replaced them with like for like last year as they were 15 years old and getting a bit manky. They are made by CEE Norm. They are chunky things, probably not as small as you'd like, but then they are rated to take 63A.
 
AngusMcDoon said:
My boat came with a factory fitted surface mounted socket on the transom into which fits a plug on the cable from the outboard. I replaced them with like for like last year as they were 15 years old and getting a bit manky. They are made by CEE Norm. They are chunky things, probably not as small as you'd like, but then they are rated to take 63A.
Click to expand...

The only connectors I am finding are the standard 16/32/63 industrial mains power connectors. Is that what you mean ?
 
Just a quick thought - why not use waterproof cable glands passing through the bulkheads. This would save cutting the cable ( assuming it is long enough) and remove a source of resistance and possible corrosion. These high current loads through a dodgy connection can cause fires.
 
davidpbo said:
The cable from the battery to the outboard has to pass through 2 bulkheads, one between the cabin and a reasonable well sealed external storge locker and then again from the locker into the engin well.

The cable is fairly substantial I would guess maybe 6mm CSA or more (Can't see the ends because they are crimped). Is there a small neet connector that could accommdate this size cable, one of which needs to be panel mounted?
I am fairly well up on that sort of thing but nothing is springing to mind. I did consider Speakon but I think 4mm is the biggest cable they can take.

It did occur to me I could use copper threaded stud through the fibreglass bulhead, with crimped eyelet connectors on the cable. The outboard coming out is likely to be an annual service event (I now use a hoist or gantry) rather than regular so removing a couple of nuts is not unduly onerous. Is there anything readily available? of concern to me is insulation and mechanical protection.
Click to expand...

rubbish ..... deleted

But I dont think I much like the idea of pairs of studs through bulkheads esp into the well.
 
Last edited:
tross said:
Just a quick thought - why not use waterproof cable glands passing through the bulkheads. This would save cutting the cable ( assuming it is long enough) and remove a source of resistance and possible corrosion. These high current loads through a dodgy connection can cause fires.
Click to expand...

OK Outboard Starting current is high but the Outboard only puts out 6A when runnning. The cable size is to minimise voltage drop as much as anything else. I have considered Speakon (Loudsspeaker connectors) the original design spec. was 30A or more continuous RMS but I think 4mm cable is the biggest they will take.

VicS said:
rubbish ..... deleted

But I dont think I much like the idea of pairs of studs through bulkheads esp into the well.
Click to expand...

Why not if they are suitable protected on both sides? Locker to engine well through maybe 3mm of fibreglass. Brass stud, nuts washers etc. maybe maybe 8mm dia.
 
ashonavega said:
Neutric also do speaker connectors, but their mains connectors are referenced as PowerCON.

Ash
Click to expand...

I don't think Powercon take bigger cables which is the only reason I would use them. I work as a sound engineer and have Speakon in the workshop. Voltage is not an issue, corrosion of contacts is but they are used on the on deck entertainment systems of many of the ships I have worked on. Whilst in that environment they do corrode eventually on my boat they would be under a locker lid, some silicone grease or similar would minimise corrosion.

Might look at Powercon as a mains inlet when I come to do that as I am trying hard but unsuccessfully to minimise bulk and weight (of everything, including me!) whilst doing things safely.
 
I would do my utmost to try not cut the cable (if its long enough) just run it through some waterproof bulkhead grommets. Should be easy enough to disconnect from the outboard when removing it from the well.... or have I missed somthing
Its alot better to minimize the connections where possible
 
MengWalton said:
I would do my utmost to try not cut the cable (if its long enough) just run it through some waterproof bulkhead grommets. Should be easy enough to disconnect from the outboard when removing it from the well.... or have I missed somthing
Its alot better to minimize the connections where possible
Click to expand...

What I am coming round to is maybe running the cable direct for now and using PU40 sealant where it goes through the bulkheads and cutting it in the engine well if and when I next need to remove the engine. Terminating both ends of the cable in suitable crimps with substantial eyes and making the connection on bulkhead mounted studs.

It may be that I find the engine can be serviced in situ and you (and others) have made me see that the supplied cable is of course terminated at BOTH ends and that it should be relatively easy to disconnect it within the engine. The eye connectors are smaller at that end.

Cable has to pass through the bulkhead, down the locker where it will be secured and protected, through another bulkhead into the cabin under a berth, out through the front of the berth and into the battery box, so I don't want to have to pull it back out with any degree of regularity.

I dislike having relatively long high CSA cables connected direct to the battery running through bulkheads and lockers without being fuse protected total distance is about 2 metres. I suppose I should put a battery isolator switch in.
The old outboard did not have electrice start so all cabling was 2.5mm and the battery isolated by unplugging a 15A bulgin connector.
 
The kit I have on my boat (CEE Norm plug/external socket in cockpit, 50A inline fuse) is the standard factory fitted equipment on all boats of my type (Dragonfly 920). It has caused me no problems in 16 years (other than eventually the plug's rubber grommet suffering from sunlight degradation), nor anyone else that I'm aware.
 
AngusMcDoon said:
The kit I have on my boat (CEE Norm plug/external socket in cockpit, 50A inline fuse) is the standard factory fitted equipment on all boats of my type (Dragonfly 920). It has caused me no problems in 16 years (other than eventually the plug's rubber grommet suffering from sunlight degradation), nor anyone else that I'm aware.
Click to expand...

The connector looks good but looks to be the size of 16A mains connectors (I know it is only 2 pole) I had a look at the cable today and it looks to be about 10mm CSA. What style is the fuse? Automotive blade? Or other?
If I did go for a fuse I would probably try and find a sealed one that could be bolted directly to a buss bar. 50A was what I was thinking.
 
davidpbo said:
The connector looks good but looks to be the size of 16A mains connectors (I know it is only 2 pole) I had a look at the cable today and it looks to be about 10mm CSA. What style is the fuse? Automotive blade? Or other?
If I did go for a fuse I would probably try and find a sealed one that could be bolted directly to a buss bar. 50A was what I was thinking.
Click to expand...

The pins might look the same but inside the cable connectors are chunkier and have double clamp screws on each pole to cope with bigger cables and the higher current specification. 16A mains connectors are not designed for this type of application whereas the CEE Norm ones are.

Automotive blade fuse. On my boat it's inside next to the battery and has never caused problems.
 
I think I would use a deck gland for the passage from cabin to locker (which presumably never needs to come apart) and then fit a plug and socket in the engine well. I have a socket on my foredeck that runs the spotlight, anchor light, or dinghy inflator - the inflator draws 30 amps for several minutes so it needs to be substantial. It's IP67-rated (including when closed off with its blanking cap) and made by Bulgin; I don't have the model number to hand. But the search on Farnell or its affiliated sites ought to do the job - choose the "connectors" section, narrow by current rating and IP rating, and see what comes up.

Pete
 
I have taken the cable through the bulkheads using standard cable glands that I had in the workshop. I will probably use some sealant in them as well as the the cable is oval rather than round. I was surprised I was able to get the lugs through as they were only 20mm. If the engine nees d to come out it is simple enough to disconnect in the outboard. I have to disconnect the throttle and gear cables anyway.

Still got a bit to go re isolator switch, fusing etc.
 
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