wombat88
Well-Known Member
Do you let your 4 stroke outboard run until the carb empties after use? Or do you leave it only doing this if you are going to leave it for months at a time?
Outboard. Running the carb dry.
- Thread starter wombat88
- Start date
CLB
Well-Known Member
I do it every time, as I'm never really sure when I'm going to be using it again. If I know it will be for a long period, I drain the bowl too.
prv
Well-Known Member
FWIW I keep my 2-stroke outboard at home between trips, for protection from weather and potential theft. While it's on the boat I just stop it on the button, but when I bring it home I run it in a bin of fresh water to rinse and then let it run dry to stop before putting it back in the shed. Seems to work fine, starting first or second pull even after six months with no special winterising beyond the above, and on the same fuel.
Pete
Pete
RichardS
N/A
I don't do anything until I'm packing up to leave to boat when I always drain the carb fully using the drain screw. I know that I will not be returning for at least a month.
Richard
Richard
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
Me too. Its an old Yamaha 2hp but works when I need it. I think its pretty important to fully drain any 2 stroke because the petrol evaporates leaving oil behind. If left a long time it will oil up the spark plug when you next try to start it.
Glenlivet
Well-Known Member
Honda 4t. Run it dry every time. Why not?
bitbaltic
Well-Known Member
Little 2hp Honda. Always run it dry after every use and it always starts. Only takes a few minutes, why not.
[70521]
Well-Known Member
Yes.
ctva
Well-Known Member
Yes.
Cardinal
Well-Known Member
No- but I would if leaving for more than a couple of weeks.
CAPTAIN FANTASTIC
Well-Known Member
I have four stroke outboards,; No, I don't run them dry
Last edited:
Heckler
Well-Known Member
Exactly, if peeps are going to run till it stops they need to realise the main jet is above the bottom of the bowl so some fuel is still left in the bowl. It can be counter productive in that there is less to evaporate so the remnants happen quicker!
Sailingsaves
Well-Known Member
4 strokes have their bearings lubricated by oil in a sump.
2 strokes use the fuel and oil mix to lubricate the big ends, little ends, piston.
I have stopped running the carb dry because for the last second or part of a second, the moving parts may not be lubricated. I used to use fogging oil at end of season and drop the carb bowl. This year I neglected the ob (1996 made) but did add a fuel additive supposed to stop fuel going stale. Beginning of season I gave the cord a few pulls without ignition on (to lube things up) and then with ignition on, (safety cord attached), it started first time and ran perfectly on the half tank of fuel and whatever was left in the carb bowl.
I don't recommend it; I think I was probably lucky.
2 strokes use the fuel and oil mix to lubricate the big ends, little ends, piston.
I have stopped running the carb dry because for the last second or part of a second, the moving parts may not be lubricated. I used to use fogging oil at end of season and drop the carb bowl. This year I neglected the ob (1996 made) but did add a fuel additive supposed to stop fuel going stale. Beginning of season I gave the cord a few pulls without ignition on (to lube things up) and then with ignition on, (safety cord attached), it started first time and ran perfectly on the half tank of fuel and whatever was left in the carb bowl.
I don't recommend it; I think I was probably lucky.
Seajet
...
Sailingsaves,
same here with my 2-strokes, I used to run engines dry but then thought about the lubricant side so don't do it now.
4 strokes may well be OK but then they have the stowage position - and weight - problems.
same here with my 2-strokes, I used to run engines dry but then thought about the lubricant side so don't do it now.
4 strokes may well be OK but then they have the stowage position - and weight - problems.
lw395
Well-Known Member
I turn the fuel off a suitable distance from the slipway.
If I miss-judge it, I use a paddle.
I've stripped down plenty of two-strokes after running the carbs 'dry', I've never found the innards anything but oily.
The only outboard engines I wouldn't attempt to run dry would be with more than one carb, or bigger ones where you don't get the problems/it's easier to just drain the carb.
If I miss-judge it, I use a paddle.
I've stripped down plenty of two-strokes after running the carbs 'dry', I've never found the innards anything but oily.
The only outboard engines I wouldn't attempt to run dry would be with more than one carb, or bigger ones where you don't get the problems/it's easier to just drain the carb.
Spyro
Well-Known Member
I agree with that I had more problems with the bowl gunging up when I used to (try) to run it dry. As you say running till it stops does not empty the carb bowl. I've found it best now to leave it and if I haven't used it for a while to open the fuel cock and give it a turn over If I haven't used it for a while. never had a problem since I started doing that
chewi
Well-Known Member
I don't run it dry except for the winter, but I'm usually back within 2 weeks, also I use premium ethanol free fuel to avoid the varnish.
Honda 2.3 4 stroke.
Honda 2.3 4 stroke.
CLB
Well-Known Member
Which fuel have you found that is ethanol free? Most premium fuels seem to contain ethanol as far I have found.
RichardS
N/A
Indeed. This is a misconception based on the misunderstanding that running a 2T until the engine stops has run the carb dry. In fact, the engine stops when the mixture is too weak to support combustion but there is still fuel in the carb and fuel/oil mix is still passing through the crankcase. OK, there not as much oil in the final mix as there would be if the carb was full ..... but, the engine is running at idle and is very unstressed and there is still plenty of oil coating left from the previous running.
Richard
Graham376
Well-Known Member
I don't run it dry or drain the bowl, just stop it on the button. Starts and runs fine after a couple of months back home.
