VicS
Well-Known Member
Yes I know thats why I suggested it!
Outboard refuses to start
- Thread starter 2nd_apprentice
- Start date
Yes I know thats why I suggested it!
maby
Well-Known Member
Don't you have a tame marine engineer available anywhere nearby? Our yacht club's resident engineer took an ancient Mariner that I had purchased cheaply and would not start and for £50 turned it into a very reliable machine that ran without trouble for ages.
2nd_apprentice
Well-Known Member
No luck. For a second I thought it might have something to do with the alternator. Connected the
wires to a lamp but no cigar.
Depending on what the engineer comes up with I'll probably have to consider the Tohatsu a write off, no way I'm going to pour hundreds into an unreliable engine.
VicS
Well-Known Member
"Alternator" or lighting /charging coil will not affect it.
I assume you've checked all the connections on the ignition circuit?
Might be worth checking the continuity of primary and secondary windings on the HT coil. Continuity does not necessarily mean a good coil but an open circuit would indicate a duff one.
With a DVA adapter for a multimeter it would be possible to check the pulses going to the HT coil from the CDI unit but without not a lot you can do.
Are you absolutely 100% sure that you have not shorted the "kill" connection to earth while fitting the remote control gubbins.
Jaguar 25
Well-Known Member
My outboard needs two kill switches - one as normal on the outboard and the other at the remotes switch.
2nd_apprentice
Well-Known Member
Electrics aren't really my strong side (and the rest isn't too impressive either). Thought the alternator, at least that's what Tohatsu call it, could be something I had previously overlooked. Remembered the neatly coiled up output wires but as you say wasn't the cause.
There aren't any loose connections from what I can see and I did follow the instructions to the letter.
I've now arranged for an engineer to have a look, didn't make any promises though.
One last thought: backpressure. The leg certainly sits low in the water with the auxiliary exhaust ports just above the waterline.
Nothing I can do about the well design and raising the (long shaft) outboard would result in the prop ending up in the well itself.
Hard starting aside however I can't see how this could cause ignition problems.
There aren't any loose connections from what I can see and I did follow the instructions to the letter.
I've now arranged for an engineer to have a look, didn't make any promises though.
One last thought: backpressure. The leg certainly sits low in the water with the auxiliary exhaust ports just above the waterline.
Nothing I can do about the well design and raising the (long shaft) outboard would result in the prop ending up in the well itself.
Hard starting aside however I can't see how this could cause ignition problems.
dsw
Well-Known Member
Depending on what the engineer comes up with I'll probably have to consider the Tohatsu a write off, no way I'm going to pour hundreds into an unreliable engine.[/QUOTE]
well if you write it off then i have got £50 for it.
well if you write it off then i have got £50 for it.
maby
Well-Known Member
well if you write it off then i have got £50 for it.[/QUOTE]
I might even stretch to £60 - let's start an auction!
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Oh well. Always worth a try.
Although you may feel you are throwing more money at it, the alternative is to buy the same model as you already have all the remote kit. That's going to cost you £300 or so for a decent s/h one.
Capacitors have a habit of stopping working if they are not cycled. My mains powered flash heads can suffer from this. In that case just leaving them powered for a day or so usually gets them running again. I have seen on iboats forums that some people suggest taking out the plug and spinning the motor over with a battery powered drill to re-energise the ignition pack.
I'm connecting these two bits of information, it may not be the case. I'm not an electronics expert either.
Even if the engineer fits a new ignition pack it won't cost that much. Then you'll have an engine that has been serviced and is in good condition with not much use behind it.
I know that having an unreliable engine is never a comfortable feeling. But surely once running it will be good. They are about the best outboard at smaller sizes around.
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VicS
Well-Known Member
I'm not overly convinced that back pressure is major issue. Dunno what LS thinks?
Provided the relief ports are clear Id not think the bp would prevent it from starting, at least firing. Using a long shaft on a sailing boat with an outboard bracket is a common trick to overcome the problems of the prop coming out of the water when pitching.
However if you have no spark that's the issue, as you realise, that has to be resolved. It is not going to run with no spark whatever else you may do.
If you have not already done so I would suggest you locate the brown wire coming away from the CDI unit disconnect it from all the kill switch wiring and insulate it. then check again for a spark. Be sure that the earth wire from the CDI (black??) is still properly connected.
2nd_apprentice
Well-Known Member
Well, all sorted now and my little Tohatsu seems to be running perfectly. Had nought to do with the electrickery though! While the idea of holding the spark plug against the engine block was fine I've been told it won't work with painted parts. The actual problem was that the engine was completely encrusted with salt. There goes my idea of having it permanently installed in a well... that's a bit of a problem. While light it's still a rather unhandy lump to raise and being a four stroke I haven't anywhere else to store it correctly when not in use. Now ordered Salty John's lifting harness but the prospect of having to lift out the engine single handed and getting it onto the pontoon after every day out isn't all that great. Haven't got a pushpit either to hang it from as people do with smaller outboards.