Outboard refuses to start

2nd_apprentice

2nd_apprentice

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After all the trouble of lugging the damn thing around and fitting a remote kit, getting fuel and installing it in my well myTohatsu won't start. This is a virtually new engine, unused for five years and probably not even run in.

Fuel is fresh and there doesn't seem to be any problem with fuel reaching the spark plug

Had a look at spark plug, cleaned and later replaced it with specified spare.

No luck whatsoever.
I guess the next step would be to unscrew the spark plug and hold it against the engine block while pulling the start cord at the same time and checking for spark? Actually I do have a strobe light somewhere, not sure what to do with it in this case though. No other specialist tools available. Engine's a 4-stroke btw. Owner's manual surprisingly useless.

Any ideas?
 
Has it been stored with fuel in it for a significant time? That could easily result in blocked jets in the carb and an incorrect mixture which could make it very difficult to start.
 
There's no integrated fuel tank and the fuel filter was empty. Not sure if the PO drained the carburettor but by the looks of it this engine had never been started.
Kill switch is in place but I'll double check since the conversion also required rewiring the connections.
 
Check the spark first.Also check compression.You could have a sticking valve after all this time.If the carb hasn't been drained it needs to be fully cleaned and all the passages cleared.Modern fuel leaves a residue that will clog everything.
 
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Ok took the spark plug out, connected it to the lead and placed it on the block. Pulled the cord and watched for a spark. Nothing.
It's bright daylight of course but still.
 
2nd_apprentice said:
Ok took the spark plug out, connected it to the lead and placed it on the block. Pulled the cord and watched for a spark. Nothing.
It's bright daylight of course but still.
Click to expand...

Assuming there is no spark, not just that you cannot see it in bright daylight, the first think to check is the kills switch although you say it does not seem to be the problem. How do you know ?

If possible disconnect the wiring to it and insulate the wires, ...... try again see if you can get a spark ... it should jump a cm at least .
 
I did check for the kills witch thingy to be in place. AIU all it does is shorting the igition against earth. There's a black cable connected to the engine block and a brown wire going to the C.D. unit. TBH it's highly unlikely I'm ever going to use the kill switch as it's now buried deep in my well and rather difficult to get at. Disconnecting said brown and black wire won't do anything else, will it?

Screenshot_2013_09_04_15_11_20_20130904151423011.jpg
 
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Disconnected the brown wire, the black one is a bit difficult to get at without removing the engine from the well.
Still not getting any spark. :(
 
It's a NGK lead, think they're crimped on so nothing short of cutting the plug cap off would do.
It's beginning to look like a job for a professional. :( :( :(
 
Might be worth having a butchers at the CDI unit, under the pull-cord mechanism. Afraid I can't give details since I don't know your particular engine. If it's been badly stored it may be full of obvious corrosion. Mind you, they often still work when they look like that. But it might confirm or not your (reluctant?) decision to hand it to a professional.

PS I presume you've seen the thread, currently just above yours, about 'Outboard with no spark'?

PPS Outboard's are like women (he writes while the missus is away): they need to be treated nicely. So 'Outboard declines to start' is better than 'refuses'. ;)
 
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Yeah, I'm giving up now. Not that I enjoy spending even more on an unknown engine but this seems to be out of my comfort zone. Could've bought a Seagull for the cost of the remote conversion kit alone :(
 
Quite expensive, considering it doesn't even work or do anything useful for me:

Remote control kit, control box and anode: £ 341
low friction control cables: £ 70
M6 A4 steel screw (anode): £ 1
M8 A4 screws: £ 3
Antifouling & primer: £ 40
disposible brush: £ 1
10W30 engine oil & gearbox oil: £ 16
Fuel: £ 20
--------------------------------------------
Total: £ 492

Adding £ 100 for a cd unit or slightly less for the exciter coil plus whatever a marine engineer will charge me it looks like another £ 200 - 300.
That's almost as much as the engine's worth! I seem to be wasting a lot of money on an engine that'll just be man enough to push my boat in a flat calm. Meh.

I think I need a sculling oar.
 
Have you tried the first option?

1st option. Fling a small eggcup's worth of petrol into the air intake and pull the starter.

It only takes a moment and it's surprising how often it get's the motor running. (You may say there is no spark so why should it start. I don't know, but it often works and it's so easy it's worth a go.)
 
Lakesailor said:
Have you tried the first option?

1st option. Fling a small eggcup's worth of petrol into the air intake and pull the starter.

It only takes a moment and it's surprising how often it get's the motor running. (You may say there is no spark so why should it start. I don't know, but it often works and it's so easy it's worth a go.)
Click to expand...

Not so good for 2 strokes or diesel engines but "Easy start" worth a try ??
 
The OP's engine is 4 stroke.

It works fine on 2 strokes. The few seconds it runs on pure petrol are not enough to wash away the oil film on the bearings and cylinder wall. If the engine continues running, it's using 2T that it's drawing from it's own fuel supply through the carb
 
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