VicS
Well-known member
It also suggests that the ignition system is fine
Id find out how/where to disconnect the kill button before spending money on fixing an unconfirmed fault.
Outboard problem - any thoughts
- Thread starter PITCAIRN
- Start date
It also suggests that the ignition system is fine
Id find out how/where to disconnect the kill button before spending money on fixing an unconfirmed fault.
Croak
New member
That suggestion is fine as long as you describe the fault in the description otherwise it is despicable .
VicS
Well-known member
Perhaps that is how the OP got it in the first place......... One of Lakesailor's that he couldn't fix up
Lakesailor
New member
My 100% eBay feedback suggests that I apply higher standards than you are used to.
Croak
New member
Alex_Blackwood
Well-known member
Id find out how/where to disconnect the kill button before spending money on fixing an unconfirmed fault.[/QUOTE]
Agree with that. I think the Kill button may work by shorting the coil to earth, ground, whatever you want to call it. So could be a short or partial short in the button or wiring. Disconnect it completely and see if the problem persists.
Agree with that. I think the Kill button may work by shorting the coil to earth, ground, whatever you want to call it. So could be a short or partial short in the button or wiring. Disconnect it completely and see if the problem persists.
david_bagshaw
Well-known member
What is the compression like? put a bit of oil down one bore, & have a start
might be a lack of crank case compression as well.
might be a lack of crank case compression as well.
lw395
Well-known member
In my (mixed) experience, 99% of outboard starting problems are water droplets or dirt in the carb(s).
The other 1% are plugs. Buy new NGK plugs at the first sign of trouble.
The other 1% are plugs. Buy new NGK plugs at the first sign of trouble.
Lakesailor
New member
Not for Johnson or Evinrude. ( I realise this isn't a Johnson or Evinrude)
VicS
Well-known member
Champions only for OMC engines was the official line. The snag was that resistor suppressed plugs were not suitable for the OMC CD ignition system . It required either non suppressed plugs or inductively suppressed plugs. The Champion Q series plugs are the inductively suppressed ones and were developed specially for the OMC engines. For a good few years there were no direct NGK equivalents for the Q series and often resistor plugs were listed and supplied as equivalents but they are not satisfactory . There are now direct equivalents , the NGK "Z" series.
So although for example NGK BR7HS are not suitable in place of the commonly used QL77JC4 the inductively suppressed NGK BZ7HS are suitable. So too for that matter are the unsuppressed B7HS which are equivalent to L77JC4.
In fact i have a set of B7HS for my Evinrude. If there is any difference they are perhaps slightly better than the original QL77J4s.
Sorry for the thread drift!
Lakesailor
New member
Thanks for the update.
However going into a chandlery and asking for a suitable plug for a Johnson or Evinrude will usually result in a hand waving vaguely in the direction of a rack of plugs. Even if you know which one you want it's often difficult to find it. :nonchalance:
However going into a chandlery and asking for a suitable plug for a Johnson or Evinrude will usually result in a hand waving vaguely in the direction of a rack of plugs. Even if you know which one you want it's often difficult to find it. :nonchalance:
30boat
N/A
If it has points ignition check the condensers.They can stop working when hot and work again when cold.
VicS
Well-known member
I think it is CDI but your suggestion raises the question , "How do you check the condensers in points ignition systems?"
30boat
N/A
You replace them,they're not expensive.
Lakesailor
New member
It was always the first port of call on Vauxhalls with Delco Remy electrics. Try one you know works (not always a new one out of a box).
PITCAIRN
New member
The outboard engine has stopped again ....for Gods sake.
So having got it working nicely, and starting fine, Friday I think that was, the next day, yesterday Saturday, I tried to start it, nothing, after about 5 mins of leaving it, I tried pulling again - it coughed , then died. Again I waited about an hour, it started on first pull.
I ran it around the marina for 15 mins. it was wonderful, full throttle, sounded just sweet, I parked up , killed the engine with the kill switch, then restarted without any problem, I then left the engine for another 30 mins or so, when I went back again it would not start. I left exasperated.
I would give up and go buy a new one, but you know I have now got mad and want to solve the problem (s).
Just to answer some questions that have cropped up from forum members, the engine was bought new, not by me, but a very reliable guy I know. So its not that the engine always had a problem.
The vent on the fuel tank (external plastic tank) is open, the bulb was pumped to 'firm'.
The spark plugs I bought new when all this problem started so dont think its an issue with the plugs themselves.
There are two CDI units, mounted one for each spark plug, just like the CDI photo posted by one of the earlier posts.
It is of course possible to replace the kill switch (assume its a spare part I can buy) but without cutting into the actual body of the switch , or severing the wires, there is no access to the switch or the wiring going from switch to CDI units to inspect the moving parts or do any electrical testing.
My mind is turning to simple flooding issues. Maybe this is all about flooding and the carb having issues, maybe the float in the carb is not functioning correctly, maybe there is some dirt somewhere....but then why would the engine run so dam good when it eventually does get going ?
Compression ?....I need to test that, its got to be tested if only to remove it as a possibility.
What else ?
So having got it working nicely, and starting fine, Friday I think that was, the next day, yesterday Saturday, I tried to start it, nothing, after about 5 mins of leaving it, I tried pulling again - it coughed , then died. Again I waited about an hour, it started on first pull.
I ran it around the marina for 15 mins. it was wonderful, full throttle, sounded just sweet, I parked up , killed the engine with the kill switch, then restarted without any problem, I then left the engine for another 30 mins or so, when I went back again it would not start. I left exasperated.
I would give up and go buy a new one, but you know I have now got mad and want to solve the problem (s).
Just to answer some questions that have cropped up from forum members, the engine was bought new, not by me, but a very reliable guy I know. So its not that the engine always had a problem.
The vent on the fuel tank (external plastic tank) is open, the bulb was pumped to 'firm'.
The spark plugs I bought new when all this problem started so dont think its an issue with the plugs themselves.
There are two CDI units, mounted one for each spark plug, just like the CDI photo posted by one of the earlier posts.
It is of course possible to replace the kill switch (assume its a spare part I can buy) but without cutting into the actual body of the switch , or severing the wires, there is no access to the switch or the wiring going from switch to CDI units to inspect the moving parts or do any electrical testing.
My mind is turning to simple flooding issues. Maybe this is all about flooding and the carb having issues, maybe the float in the carb is not functioning correctly, maybe there is some dirt somewhere....but then why would the engine run so dam good when it eventually does get going ?
Compression ?....I need to test that, its got to be tested if only to remove it as a possibility.
What else ?
30boat
N/A
Flooding will give a drip from the carb and sooty plugs so it's easy to identify.Have you taken the carb out and cleaned it?If you do make a note of the turns to unscrew the adjusting screws so you can put them back in the same position.
Most carburation problems are in fact ignition problems,you may have a defective CDI unit.These can be tested,the manual should explain how and it's not difficult to do.To find out if the kill switch is faulty cut the insulation on both wires and connect a switch between them.If that cures the problen then replace the kill switch. if not reinsulate the wires.
Davegriff
New member
Had temperamental outboard once - showed symtoms of flooding, running ok and starvation on various occasions. After checking everything I could, I took out the fuel level needle (under the float 'hinge'). It was worn (on one side only) and reseating it cured the fault. Maybe just adjusting the float level afterwards did it, though. Just a thought as you seem to have tried most other things.
VicS
Well-known member
Most kill switches kill when closed. Your suggestion, if I understand you correctly, will not detect the problem.
This one may of course be the exception to the rule and kill when open.
If it really cannot be disconnected I' cut the wires and test it and also try running with it disconnected...... if it wont then short the wires together and try again.
Until proven wrong I am sticking to the theory that the kill switch is dodgy.
30boat
N/A
You're just bypassing the switch with another one that you know that works.As I see it it'll determine weather or not the kill switch is functional