Our ex colonial cousins

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This year I had occasion to visit the States. Unusually I decided to take a day off and visit Annapolis. I had been recommended to do this by some American business colleagues - "it’s the centre of the yacht world" they said. When I'm away, I sometimes write an account for my family - to email it home. I thought you may be interested or amused by it. Excuse some of the style - its "familyese". It is a gently humorous piece - I'm not out to offend

I am now in Annapolis - they got boats. I am going to see them.

Annapolis is a pretty old town. That is, it is pretty and old, but certainly not by European standards. Houses and boats dating back to say 1850 - just before our house was built - (sniff). Like the rest of this whole area it is very green. Indeed, although I have now driven hundreds of miles, I have seen almost nothing except trees lining the road. The town has lots of old wooden houses, shops and churches and I suspect would take a weekend to see properly. The shops are in fact almost exactly the same as those you would find in a quaint English harbour town. There are a fair number of "Taverns" but of course they've all got made up names, so they lose some authenticity which is a shame because they don't need to - they are in fact authentic. The harbour itself is quite small and leads out into a larger outer harbour, which in turn leads into the Chesapeake Bay.

Now - I had been told variously by Americans that Annapolis was "the yachting capital of the world". That the harbour was know as "ego alley" where owners of "huge" motor cruisers went up and down showing off their pride and joy (pictures from Miami Vice come to mind). These people have clearly not heard of either the Hamble, the South of England or the fact that the oldest, indeed the first yacht club in the world - The Royal Yacht Squadron - (please stand when you read that) which was formed and is still based in Cowes.

The harbour is about 100 yards long and 25 yards wide. All I saw were a number of sad 20 foot motor cruisers putter up an down - anything bigger would be difficult to fit in there. Indeed I didn't see anything much bigger in the outer harbour. Granted there were quite a lot of yachts around but nothing compared to the Hamble.

The bay area is very scenic and so without any doubt, the way to approach Annapolis is from the sea (because approaching it from the land is so nondescript). I think that to sail up this eastern sea board from South Carolina to the Chesapeake Bay could be very beautiful.

I went to 3 chandlers (or "boat shops" as the Americans so charmingly call them) in the hope that I might find equipment that was less expensive (we are constantly told how cheap everything is in America) and perhaps some further choice in the clothing line. Neither was true. The first thing that strikes is that it's just like walking into Alladins Cave or the Marine Superstore. Everything; clothing, electronics and equipment is exactly the same - even down to the badly presented electronic gear in glass cabinets just inside the door - no really. There is a slight difference. My impression was that it was definitely more expensive - across the board. Musto coat £350 - £400. Plastimo compass £100. (£270 and £50 respectively at home). Ah well 2 more conceptions bite the dust.


Geoff
 

petery

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Great read... but

our 'ex-colonial cousins' in Cork might quibble with your contention that the RYS is the oldest yacht club in the world!

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.royalcork.com>http://www.royalcork.com</A>
 
G

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Re: US Prices

'Tis bizarre - but the same can be said t'other way round.

I generally write these things to show kids that USA actually isn't the place its made out to be - without being disparraging (correct spelling?). i.e. good service, everything's cheaper, fanatastic natural vistas, wonderful restaurants etc.

No of which is true in generality although each do of course exist in parts.

Geoff
 

aod

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Interesting!

I needed some new steel Harken runner blocks and for the same price here, I flew to New York for a long weekend, had a great time, bought the blocks and flew home and it cost me about £20 more.

I guess it largely depends on what you want to buy but for anything Harken I would def fligh over have a little holiday and then reluctantly return to the rain.

Hmmmm......now let me see, can I justify replacing my knackered Lewmar primarys with some lovely Harken ones?
 

Cornishman

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I wouldn't go this weekend. Last night's temperature in Upper NY State was 10 degrees F, 9" of snow. JFK closed for a while. More expected. Concorde's rudder keeps dropping off in the cold - so would mine!
 
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I once went to the big Annapolis Boat Show....and was dismally disappointed. Its a nice town, has some good seafood, but beyond that.....not much to impress this Florida born son. Now if you want big boats...come down to Florida. From the Palm Beaches (West Palm Beach) south to Miami and the Keys and then over on the west coast of Florida..... The Miami Boat show is the place to go.... They display 50+ footers indoors and mega yachts in the slips. There are a number of other boat shows around the state that are rather impressive for the boats that they have to show.

In so far as blocks and other hardware for your boat....you might want to peruse the website http://www.garhauer.com and take a gander at the goods they offer for sale. Price-wise their goods are right and they have a ten year warranty. Even if you have them shipped from California by UPS Blue Air (2nd day air service) you will still save a small fortune. I use their blocks on my sailboat and I'm very happy with them. Very high quality with a very fair price.

I don't represent them......I work for a major chandlery that sells Harken and Lewmar....but even with my discount those brands are still expensive.... So I gave Garhauer a try and am happy I did.

Reality is the cause of all stress!!
 

NigeCh

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Did you cross the bridge

and go to Eastport? Back Creek is where most of the boats are - There are various large marinas there with some splendid boats. Then all around are other creeks and inlets with private moorings - Annapolis Yacht Harbor; the Severn river; Weems Creek; the Magothy river; etc; .... If you took a boat and explored for several days you would still be finding more magic boating places hidden away.

Annapolis is a very special place. It's not just the old harbour - which is small, it's its history and sense of place that make it's centre like a lost part of old England. Once you get out of the centre then you start wandering through endless open and treelined suburbs that all look just the same.

Sailing on the Chesapeake is not all that beautiful, its backdrop is boringly flat. It's only when you peek into the various places that it reveals itself at local level : ie Norfolk; Hampton; Salty Ponds; Solomons; St Michaels; Etc. The two downsides to sailing the Bay are dodging crab-pots which now seem to extend out to the 30' contour inbetween dodging the push-me pull-me tugs (and other commercial traffic) heading for Baltimore/Norfolk .... and then in Hampton Roads dodging the mighty USA navy until you head out east over the Gulf Stream to Bermuda and all points east (Going south beyond Norfolk you would probably duck down the ICW into the Great Dismal Swamp to void going round Cape Hatteras)

The Bay is a great place to day sail - and generally it's easy steady sailing in light to moderate breezes. Annapolis, especially the Maritime Republic of Eastport is one of my favorite places in the USA - It's just 20 minutes drive from BWI. Several times I've flown from the UK to BWI, got off the plane and then an hour later been on the water .... and that's magic too!
 
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Re: Did you cross the bridge

Hi Nige

Yes, I did wander over to Eastport and look around the streets (that was where the chandlery was I described - just on the right as I recollect). I hope you don't think I was running it down - I noted it was "authentic". It just wasn't as described by our colonial cousins - who see any aspect of the USA as the centre of the whole world. Certainly, when you carefully avoiding over-flying the rich peoples houses I noted - so much for the land of equality) many, many of the houses have their own private berth at the end of their garden.

Yes, it was that flat rather boring aspect to the land that made me think that approaching/exploring from the sea would be the best way. Mind you, that's true of a lot of places.

Geoff
 

NigeCh

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Fawcett\'s and Bacon\'s

Fawcett's is next the Marriott and Bacon's is hidden away. The one on the right over the bridge next a pub only useful for lunch is, IMHO, small and tawdry. Bacon's is unique as it's really a sailmakers with a front-shop selling off most things 2nd hand. Otherwise all the chandlers there are just the same as here, but smaller - and that's odd.

I didn't think that you were running Annapolis down - Yours was a refreshing post showing that there are many places which can count themselves as being amongst the sailing capitals of the world - Each place has it own merits and afficionados. My sailing capital is where I sail from and I'm sure that we all regard where we sail from as being best for our purposes. What's nice is to be able to visit and sail from all the other capitals so that we can make comparisons as we wish.

It would be nice if YM expanded its viewpoint and became a global magazine - I for one would like to see a review and a pull-out (IALA 'B') chart for Annapolis and some of the superb destinations close by.... and then others around the world. (Naturally this could be in addition to the current set and theme of the 'local' to UK pullouts.)
 

Sybarite

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Re: Great read... but

Absolutely correct ! The Royal Cork was officially set up in 1720, 95 years before the RYS but club sailing had probably gone on for at least half a century before that. An amendment written in 1720 makes reference to the original 'ancient' rules of the club.

In general recorded things in Ireland go back further than elsewhere. eg The O'Neill Family of Ulster (which for many centuries provided the High Kings of Ireland) is the oldest continously recorded royal family in the world. Their ancestry is believed to be reliably recorded back to the 3rd or 4th century BC.

Also when you talk about OUR colonial cousins you should remember that the earliest recorded likely discoverers of America were the Irish Monks who traveled in leather and pitch curraghs. St Brendan the Navigator, born about AD 489 set out in the mid 6th century to see "the beautiful land which lay far to the west over the ocean"(Severin). He had been told about this by a monk called Barrind who had already visited it with St Bernoc, an abbot on an offshore island.

Brendan was the first to write about his voyage along the Northern route - Shetlands, Iceland, Greenland in his book 'Navigatio'.

I suspect this may have been the case also with Christopher Columbus - others probably did it but didn't make a song and dance about it.

In the same way St Patrick's value in Irish history is that he wrote it down but almost certainly did not introduce Christianity to Ireland.... He ( a Brit ...! ) followed (probably 30 to 50 years after) in the steps of Palladius AD 431 who was sent by Pope Celestine to administer to the Christians (already) in Ireland as their first bishop.

I digress ...
 

Gunfleet

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Re: Great read... but

Digress, digress. Who's complaining? There's no end of messages posted here about where to find a left threaded imperial widget. We need more kings of Oirland and fewer widgets.
 

pugwash

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Makes the Solent look good

Irish mate of mine had a boat at Anapolis. The town itself is ordinary but Chesapeake Bay is like an enormous Solent that takes two days to transit. It's so jam-packed with traffic that the Coast Guard operates a traffic light system at the entrance to some channels. The marinas sprawl for miles and in summer it's flat calm. Give me the Solent any time, he said.
 
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