Oil teak before cetol?

Conachair said:
sounds like you've been there. Why not?
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If you oil the deck then there's no chance the sikens will soak in. Yes I did use oil on my capping rails, looked good for a short while and then soon turned black and horrible. Had to take it all off before applying sikens.
Sikens is now all I use., but not on the decks as it will wear off pretty quickly underfoot.
 
OK, ta. Wasn't sure whether to give the teak some oil then let it soak in for a few days before putting on the cetol.

Never bothered before though.
 
Sikkens Cetol Marine is the best finish I have found so far for exterior teak type woodwork. ( use the natural finish)

May no longer be available though. Certainly discontinued by International Yachtpaint.

"Boatpaint" say, "Best bet is to find your nearest Dulux Decorator Centre - they sell the whole range of Sikkens Cetol products, which are the same. Just need to check the colours as the names are different."

There have been good reports about Sikkens Cetol Novatech and Novatop although the data sheet says not suitable for oily woods
 
Conachair said:
OK, ta. Wasn't sure whether to give the teak some oil then let it soak in for a few days before putting on the cetol.

Never bothered before though.
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Quite the opposite. If you use Sikkens Novatech/Top - which is excellent - you need to clean the teak with acetone first to get rid of any surface oil. although the manufacturer suggests it is not good on teak, I have had no problems with it.
 
Conachair said:
Ta everyone. Didn't realise it had been discontinued. Lasts well, dunnit :) Will give novatop a go this time.
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I am not absolutely sure it has.

Boatpaint said it had been, ages ago. Its no longer on Internationals website but it still appears on Sikken's website :confused:


Novatop should go over Novatech I think you will find.

Luckily I dont have much external woodwork so my tin of Cetol Marine should see me out!
 
VicS said:
Luckily I dont have much external woodwork so my tin of Cetol Marine should see me out!
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Vic, that's the most awful thing to write! I have a friend who's in a similar mindset; every time he decorates a room in his house he says "Well, that's the last time I'll paint that room". You'll probably live longer than the rest of us.
 
pvb said:
Vic, that's the most awful thing to write! I have a friend who's in a similar mindset; every time he decorates a room in his house he says "Well, that's the last time I'll paint that room". You'll probably live longer than the rest of us.
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Just a pragmatic view of life (and death!) plus indicating how little he uses compared with the stock he has! I would say the same about my tub of Blakes seacock grease - which is good seeing how much it now costs in relation to a pensioner's income!
 
Yep there are quite a few consumables in my garage/workshop that will outlast me.
Some have already outlasted my father by 20 years !
 
Tranona said:
Quite the opposite. If you use Sikkens Novatech/Top - which is excellent - you need to clean the teak with acetone first to get rid of any surface oil. although the manufacturer suggests it is not good on teak, I have had no problems with it.
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I am not sure what the implications would be overall but on my boat acetone is a solvent for the mastic joints between the teak strips.
 
Ian_Rob said:
I am not sure what the implications would be overall but on my boat acetone is a solvent for the mastic joints between the teak strips.
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But you would not put any kind of coating on a teak deck with mastic caulking, so the situation does not arise.

Different for things like rub rails, hand rails and washboards which is what I assume the OP is talking about - particularly as he has a steel boat.
 
>Yes I did use oil on my capping rails, looked good for a short while and then soon turned black and horrible.

Caused by the fact that Teak oil is watered down with Castor oil (cheaper) which goes black in UV, a fact they forget to mention on the label. You can buy pure Teak oil but it's not cheap, I'd use that not other options though.
 
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