Oil/filter change necessary?

homer

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My recently purchased boat had the filters and oil replaced when it was serviced 16 months ago. Since then it has been run for 10 hours. Is there any necessity to change filters (fuel and oil) now?
 
My recently purchased boat had the filters and oil replaced when it was serviced 16 months ago. Since then it has been run for 10 hours. Is there any necessity to change filters (fuel and oil) now?

Personally, I would drop the oil (possibly leave the filter in place) but leave the fuel alone.
 
The rationale for regular oil changes is to remove the acidic elements that build up as a combustion by-product (or so I've read) so as reduce erosion of the engine. Some advise changing the oil at the end of the season for storage and then changing again at the start of the new season. I don't adhere to that regime, but find it useful to know why such advice is given. Older engine manuals advise draining the system and putting in a special oil which mists over the entire inner surface - but I've never seen anyone selling such an oil!

Rob.
 
I change oil/filters at 100hrs by which time it's gone from transparent/honey-coloured to opaque and black (as seen on the drip at the end of the dipstick). After 10 hours I would have thought the oil would still be at the honey-coloured end of the scale. If so, then if it was me I'd not worry too much.
 
I change oil/filters at 100hrs by which time it's gone from transparent/honey-coloured to opaque and black (as seen on the drip at the end of the dipstick). After 10 hours I would have thought the oil would still be at the honey-coloured end of the scale. If so, then if it was me I'd not worry too much.

The oil goes black pretty quickly, especially in a diesel engine. Very probably black after 10 hours use. Nothing to do with if it remains 'effective' or not though.

MD
 
Personally, I would drop the oil (possibly leave the filter in place) but leave the fuel alone.

Replacing the filters is a better option,but hang on ----what sort of saving are we looking at here? Pennies compared with possible(but unlikely)engine wear.

As a pennypinching Scot,I' d change the lot!

BUT I wouldn't buy the filters from Volvo,or oil from the chandlery!!
 
if you can do it yourself change it.... Oil degrades over time, even just standing in a can.

if your into getting someone to service the engine I'd get a few more hours life out of it :) only cause i'm a tight git
 
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Change the oil and filters. If it has "only" done 10 hours, that would be a lot of short run periods. Oil needs to get to 100deg C to boil off the water from condensation in it. Any engine should only be run if it is going to get up to full operating temp. I have seen so much damage to bike engines due to people starting them up for 5/10 mins over the winter every few weeks. Oil deteriorates with time, not just hours run. The additives in the oil help to keep piston rings free and oil seals supple etc. and these additives are the first victims of time deterioration.
 
From saved Info

The only real way to know if you need to change your oil is by having it tested.
The cheapest test I could find on the internet was 22.5usd hence it's not cost effective on a small engine.
Re "acid" attack.
Diesel engine oils have an additive to give a reserve of alkalinity to protect against corrosion caused by the formation of sulphuric acid. This reserve is measured and called TBN, total base number.
Most diesel engine oils will have an initial TBN in the range of 10 to 30. This depletes in time and when it gets down to the figure recommended by the engine maker the oil should be changed, about 10.
The rate of depletion of the reserve depends on many factors, some being: sulphur content of the fuel, condition of the fuel injection equipment, condition of rings/liners, how often there is unburnt fuel, i.e. stop/start cycle, how much oil is topped up.
TBN is only one of many of the reasons you may need an oil change, other major reasons? Viscosity low, insolubles high, water content, flash point reduced or any combination.
So what should you do, well make up your own mind!
What do I do? Change once a year at the end of the season and run to check the filter is Ok. Stop it and leave it till next year. If I get to 200 hours in the season then I do a oil change plus at the end of season.
During running I check the level, wipe the dipstick on the back of my hand, smell the oil and then feel it between thumb and finger. (level to make sure its not increasing, look to check colour for water contamination, smell and feel for diesel contamination)

Over time depending on the operating conditions oil deteriorates.
This can be as a result of poor combustion/worn rings/water leaks etc.
Main items effected are
Viscosity, due to fuel or other contaminates
Alkalinity, due to acids
Insolubles, due to particulates

For engines with large sump volumes routine testing is used. Depending upon the results a complete or partial oil change may be required. Typically a medium size (1000KW) generating set on a ship, often runs with the same oil for periods of around 7 to 10,000 hrs.

Oil is typically stored on board ships for many years and there is no deterioration, no shelf life.

A large bore 2 stroke engine may contain 40 tons oil oil in the system, this initial charge may be in the engine till the ship is scrapped (100,000hrs or more).However it has continuous centrifuging and routine condition testing.


If you stop/start and idle or low power run, i.e. poor combustion conditions, this will be reduced. Hence some makers, for engines they know are going in small boats, quote very low oil change intervals.

If your engine maker states 50 hour interval then this covers the worst case scenario that they expect the engine to operate under.

If you change your oil, run above say 85% power and keep going then an oil change every 2 days is clearly daft!!

Hope this has helped!! Compared with the cost of repairs,the oil cost is small, so suggest you change as per makers advice and at least once a year.
 
The oil has been in there for 16 MONTHS! Change it!

well done ludd, correct answear. Beaing a marine mechanic i would change all fillters and oil at least once a year, regardless of engine use! Look after your engine and she will look after you!
 
Change it!!!! both Oil & Filters.... false economy not to...

Compare it with something else ... I have taken delivery of my filters and just ordered 60 Litres of straight SAE 40 for the change....and I carry at least 20 Litre onboard "just in case"..... still changing oil each year is a lot cheaper than a rebuild...
 
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