Nuts are off........Seacock Woes!!!!

Car Crash!!!! WTF I have come across one seacock out of the 7+ on board which is stuck. All the others have been easy to sort or service
I know you have stated that I should of just left it with a broken plate but to me and some others who also shared their oppinions that was a poor idea which could lead to failure and I am inclined to agree and get it sorted so that I know it is done and I can maintain it correctly in the future.
Boats seacocks are not designed to be maitenance free and regular turning is reccomended for all seacocks regardless of make and I highly expect that when westerly were considering which systems to design into their vessels they did not envisage someone 40 years later having to remove one that hasnt been turned for 10+ years

Thankyou for the advice & suggestions and I will continue to take them on board and see what works evenyually which I am sure it will

Yes car crash, all you needed to know was said by post 5.
 
Yes could be an option to vibrate the bolts from the sealant somehow

I doubt that sealant adhesion can be broken by vibration as there will be give in it, it's elastic. You are just going to have to turn the bolts somehow and from the outside seems best to me as I have suggested grind two flats opposite each other to fit a spanner which will give you the leverage to turn them, the will then push out from inside with minimal force.
I look forward to tomorrows episode:encouragement:
 
With no knowledge for the possibilities of access in a Longbow, I suggest you try to break the adhesion between the seacock and the hull from the inside. Hammering on the valve from outside is not likely to be successful. I would remove the cone from the valve, then put as long a piece of wood as possible into the conical hole and lever it sideways. It is always easier to break the adhesion with this sort of action than with a straight impact. With luck you might even be able to do this from outside the boat. It should then be relatively easy to remove the bolts.
 
This Skin fitting is proving tough for someone like me who maybe is a little hesitant to twack or apply a force to certain parts of my boat with the nessacary force for fear of smacking a great big hole through it admittedly.

Would he be likely to be able to muster the force necessary to put a hammer through the hull?
I'm minded of the crash-test boat vids where they struggled to do it with an angle grinder.
 
With no knowledge for the possibilities of access in a Longbow, I suggest you try to break the adhesion between the seacock and the hull from the inside. Hammering on the valve from outside is not likely to be successful. I would remove the cone from the valve, then put as long a piece of wood as possible into the conical hole and lever it sideways. It is always easier to break the adhesion with this sort of action than with a straight impact. With luck you might even be able to do this from outside the boat. It should then be relatively easy to remove the bolts.

How would you propose to turn the body of the seacock with the through hull bolts still in place?
 
Earlier this year I spent hours trying to remove a seacock, I think I tried ever method listed in this thread, but couldn't get them to budge until I applied heat via a blow torch, and then the almost dropped out. The blow torch was a last resort, but in hindsight, I wish I had tried it hours earlier.

Just in case it was missed earlier - worth considering!
 
Just in case it was missed earlier - worth considering!

I have tried a heat gun on full power on both the valve along with a pole inserted to pop the cone. out. hasnt worked so far but I know it can take a bit of effort as I found with the jouster.

Did try to heat the sealant but I think the issue is that the bolts are placed through the sealant that holds the internal wooden backing plate as well as other sealant applied so they are sealed all the way through.

Will try the option of grinding the bolt heads to apply a spanner as that may be the leverage force required. The bolt heads are clear of the external plate now so should turn freely as long as I can break the sealant.

TBH there has to be at least one pita job as all the other seacocks have proven to be a non issue ?
 
How would you propose to turn the body of the seacock with the through hull bolts still in place?

The nuts have been removed from the inside, so the seacock is only being held on by adhesive. Quite a similar situation to removing an exhaust elbow from a flange with fixed studs. It always comes off. In this case the bolts are almost certainly being retained by some sort of elastomeric sealant, so waggling the valve around will probably loosen them as well, which after 129 posts still has not been achieved :)
 
I have tried a heat gun on full power on both the valve along with a pole inserted to pop the cone. out. hasnt worked so far but I know it can take a bit of effort as I found with the jouster.

Did try to heat the sealant but I think the issue is that the bolts are placed through the sealant that holds the internal wooden backing plate as well as other sealant applied so they are sealed all the way through.

Will try the option of grinding the bolt heads to apply a spanner as that may be the leverage force required. The bolt heads are clear of the external plate now so should turn freely as long as I can break the sealant.

TBH there has to be at least one pita job as all the other seacocks have proven to be a non issue ��

A 1.5 inch cone takes quite a lot of hammering if it is well seized. I have had no success at all with a wooden stick, I use a 1" cold chisel in reverse and hit the sharp end with a 2 lb lump hammer - hard.
 
The nuts have been removed from the inside, so the seacock is only being held on by adhesive. Quite a similar situation to removing an exhaust elbow from a flange with fixed studs. It always comes off. In this case the bolts are almost certainly being retained by some sort of elastomeric sealant, so waggling the valve around will probably loosen them as well, which after 129 posts still has not been achieved :)

I don't think there is sufficient clearance or float between the bolts and the holes in the seacock body to allow sufficient movement to either free the bolts or the body from the sealant.
I agree about the wooden rod as it tends to absorb rather than transmit the energy of the blow, although I shudder at using a reversed cold chisel, my preferred option would be a copper rod, soft enough not to damage the cone but sufficiently hard enough to transmit all of the energy from the blow.

Once the body begins to move a thin sharp blade inserted between it and the wooden backing plate should finish the job.

In the event that non of this works he is going to have to carefully cut the wooden backing plate away which will then allow the laborious job of cutting through the bolts between hull and seacock there should then be sufficient room to tap them through the hull.
 
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Put nuts on the bolts, stick a bar between two of the bolts below the sea cock body and turn the bolts until the bar is pressed against the sea cock keep turning and either the sea cock or the bolts will give.

Hard to describe verbally, but if there's any lip at all there's usually a way to set this up.

Well, or you could just hit it with a hammer.
 
A 1.5 inch cone takes quite a lot of hammering if it is well seized. I have had no success at all with a wooden stick, I use a 1" cold chisel in reverse and hit the sharp end with a 2 lb lump hammer - hard.

Ye Gods! That's highly dangerous. You must have some other bits of metal lying around more suitable for hitting with a hammer, than the sharp end of a chisel. Maybe you're just frustrated by this thread. :D
 
Ok, on the grounds of insanity may i respectfully suggest CT1 spray. ( other silicon disolvers probably available). We use it to remove old silicon from waste traps, shower trays etc. Spray loads on have a brew and come back to easily removeable silicon.
If it is old grease gluing it in maybe a squirt of gunk might jolly things along as well. If the mixture explodes and burns the boat to ashes remove the bolts from the pile ( careful, they may be hot!) and shout at them.
 
The nuts have been removed from the inside, so the seacock is only being held on by adhesive. Quite a similar situation to removing an exhaust elbow from a flange with fixed studs. It always comes off. In this case the bolts are almost certainly being retained by some sort of elastomeric sealant, so waggling the valve around will probably loosen them as well, which after 129 posts still has not been achieved :)

Well yes but in fareness I havent actually been at the boat since monday. ? but will be definately try all suggestions tomorrow
 
Ok, on the grounds of insanity may i respectfully suggest CT1 spray. ( other silicon disolvers probably available). We use it to remove old silicon from waste traps, shower trays etc. Spray loads on have a brew and come back to easily removeable silicon.
If it is old grease gluing it in maybe a squirt of gunk might jolly things along as well. If the mixture explodes and burns the boat to ashes remove the bolts from the pile ( careful, they may be hot!) and shout at them.

Sorry what mixture is likely to catch fire....sealant disolver sounds like an option
 
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