Numpty Outdrive Question

[rr_123]

Hey all,

I have just bought an old Princess 25 which has a petrol Volvo 130 with an outdrive - not an ideal combo for mainly non tidal Thames use, but great condition and a good price...

Never had a boat with outdrives before, leaving aside the weird handling at low speeds (compared to shafts), I gather they lift for trim or beaching, wouldn't appear to be any hydraulic control, can anyone give me a pointer as to how to cock its leg so to speak?

R

 

[scottie]

130 were coupled to 100 drives <look for external steering arm>occaisionally which as std did not have a lift but could have a hydraulic ram fitted to steering arm more common were the 250-270-280 <the gear shift is under a cover at the back of the drive held on by 2 screws> which had an electric lift this worked using a worm drive inside pressing down on the a frame thes are pricey to replace so may be missing
have a look here http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7736850.aspx

 

[Dave_Seager]

Most of the outdrives fitted to Princess 25s will not have power trim. However, they will probably have power lift. You do not say which leg is fitted to your boat. I think that Volvo Penta used all of 10, 250, 270 and 280 legs at different times.

The 270 and 280 legs have an electric lift facility. This is not normally used to trim the leg but can be used for lifting the leg and beaching. The trim is set by a bolt across the transom shield and cannot be adjusted under way.

The controls vary but if you have an electric lift then there will be a switch that you hold up to raise the leg and down to lower it. These legs have a latch to hold the leg down so that you can reverse. if you strike an obstruction when going forwards, the latch is designed to release before any major damage is done.

When you start to lift the leg, the first thing that happens is that the latch is released. There is usually a warning light to indicate this. Once the latch is released you should not engage reverse as the leg will just lift until the propellor reaches the surface.

Personally, I release the latches and sometimes lift the leg a little if I am in shallow water. This allows the leg to lift over an obstruction more easily than if the latch is engaged. However, I have to remember not to use reverse.

 

[oldgit]

"I have just bought an old Princess 25 which has a petrol Volvo 130 with an outdrive - not an ideal combo for mainly non tidal Thames use, but great condition and a good price

My first proper boat was P 25 with Volvo Penta 175hp V6 and 280T leg.Cracking little boat and used both for coastal and up river work around the Medway,very well put together.
Wonder exactly which leg you have.

 

[rr_123]

Cheers Guys,

Clearly I have to find out what sort of leg I have!

It is a cracking little boat, definitely the most boat I have ever got for my money, really looking forward to this one (c;

 

[oldgit]

It will most probably be either 270 on an early boat or just possibly a 280 if later or if you are really unlucky a 280T.
Loads of s/hand spares around from various sources,so keeping it going should not be too expensive or difficult to maintain.
At some point you need to find out if the bellows and oil in leg have been changed in the last 1000 years.
Leg oil is simple to check if the dipstick is above the water and if the leg has an electric lift system,you can get some bits.Rumour is that the motor is curiously similar to one used in a certain make of washing machine.
Easy way to tell is shape of leg ........easier still is if little alloy ID plate is still fixed to top of transom shield.

 

[GrowingLad]

Can you post a photo?

I've got a 100 leg, I assume they are all the same. There's nowt hydraulic with them I'm afraid, tis all manual and a tad heavy....with that said they seem to be simple and long lasting.

I was trying to upload a photo so I could show you my leg (oohhh missus : ) but I'm at a clients and the proxy won't allow me to upload photos to photobucket.

If you wish, you can drop me a PM with your email address and I can try and email it to you.

Cheers,
Simon.

 

[rr_123]

Trawling through the paperwork over a beer last night, I have a well thumbed service manual for a 270 leg, I will go and check to see that that corresponds with what is actually there, but it would be a cruel joke to provide it if it isn't a 270 (c:

The broker assured me that the leg had been serviced, but can't find a receipt for that (and the owner didn't seem the DIY type) so it will be done again before she goes to sea!

R

 

[PCUK]

Ford Cortina and other windscreen wiper motors can be adapted to work the tilt at minimum cost if all the rest of the gubbins is there. My mate will do one for you if you need it!

 

[rr_123]

ok, found the uppy-downy switch, and blow me it, works! Not sure I like what came up though, it looks like an extra from the last Pirates of the Carribean movie, but I can lift for shallows and ropes, so thanks everyone!

 

[PaulGooch]

ok, found the uppy-downy switch, and blow me it, works! Not sure I like what came up though, it looks like an extra from the last Pirates of the Carribean movie, but I can lift for shallows and ropes, so thanks everyone!

You're only supposed to lift it a little for shallow water and must NOT go over idle speed. If it looks like you describe, you need to get it out, get it cleaned, antifouled and serviced.

I bought a Princess 32 from a dealer, with two x 270 legs, just serviced and antifouled. Turns out his idea of a service was to check the oil and antifoul consisted of some white paint that looked like Dulux. When one of the driveshaft bellows split, she had to have an emergency lift, as water was coming into the engine compartment.

 

[moonraker 36]

to help manovering at slow speed's why not have a rudder attachment fitted to the leg?

 

[rr_123]

to help manovering at slow speed's why not have a rudder attachment fitted to the leg?

I've heard about this, have you had one fitted? Does it make a big difference?

Manoeuvring isn't too bad, straight line stability at river speeds is a bit of a pain1

 

[PCUK]

The best cure for slow speed wander is to fit a skeg to the hull directly ahead of the outdrive. It needs to be about 2 feet long and a foot deep. This will transform slow speed handling and make no difference to normal speed work. It will also protect the leg from damage. I've done it on several boats so this isn't theory!

 

[oldgit]

Time ?

" straight line stability at river speeds is a bit of a pain"

If new to outdrives the handling can bit feel skittish if you are used to shaft drive on perhaps a heavier boat it will be a bit disconcerting.
However,after a suprisingly short time you will start to adjust and anticipate the constant little corrections that the boat will need when travelling slowly especially in breezy conditions where the head of the boat will try to wander off in all directions.
You will get the hang of it and wonder what all the fuss is about and it is only when a post like this one appears to remind you of any problem when you first bought the boat.

 

[moonraker 36]

I've heard about this, have you had one fitted? Does it make a big difference?

Manoeuvring isn't too bad, straight line stability at river speeds is a bit of a pain1

real easy to make..
two srips of aluminum about 2ft long and 4-5mm ali plate shaped into a rudder.
drill hole near end of both ali strips bolt together loosly.
put strips around leg just above cavatation plate pinch strips together and mark where your next hole is going.basicly the strips just clamp around the leg you dont drill the leg in anyway,bolt strip's together at the other side of leg.
put rudder in between the ali strips make sure its clear of the prop.
drill and bolt into place.
have used a boat with one fitted and realy help's, when the boat is moving slowly you get better stearage and you dont want too much speed from having the boat in gear. work well on outboards too.
if you have had a boat with a rudder before i think you will no what i'm trying to say..

really useful on inland waterway's..

 

[rr_123]

permanently cocked leg

ok, found the uppy-downy switch, and blow me it, works! Not sure I like what came up though, it looks like an extra from the last Pirates of the Carribean movie, but I can lift for shallows and ropes, so thanks everyone!

Bouncing my own thread here because I got lots of good advice before!

I have had good use out of the boat for the end of the season, but on the last time out I committed a schoolboy error and got my own bow-line round the prop

After a masterful tow home from another forumite, I managed to get the rope off (with the aid of no. 1 son in a kayak...), and ran the engine with the leg lifted to make sure that everything was spinning smoothly, when the leg went down with a thud

I could lift it again, it is now up, but when I press the switch to go down there is a deathly silence. The motor whirrs in the go-up position, but nothing to go down

Have I somehow knocked it to the wrong end of a worm gear? Blown a fuse? I want to get it out on the trailer to take a look, but can't get it to the slipway (without another ignominious tow)

 

[oldgit]

Relays?

There are two relays in the system,one for up and one for down. If you can get somebody to activate the system,while you stick your ear next to the relay,you should hear a definate click from each relay when it is energised if the relay is functioning OK
Not sure which manual you have but they are easy to locate in diagram of
"The electro-mechanical sterndrive lifting device section"
Would guess that the relay is also a bog standard device and not something only available from Vilevo.

 

[rr_123]

There are two relays in the system,one for up and one for down.

That sounds like a very likely culprit!

Ta

I didn't think of relays as someone previously said that you can use a windscreen wiper motor so I assumed low power!

 

[oldgit]

That sounds like a very likely culprit!

Ta

I didn't think of relays as someone previously said that you can use a windscreen wiper motor so I assumed low power![/QUOTE]

Most likely to be something simple especially with recent cold damp conditions etc,bad earth,corroded connection,sometimes a smart tap with screwdriver will release contacts.There are some cheapskates among us who have prized off little alloy cover cleaned contacts with very fine emery paper,sprayed item with electrical switch cleaner available from Maplins(not WD40) and carried on using said item for years simply because wanted it fixed NOW and could not summon up energy to go and buy new one.
Rumour has it,webspeak for somebody once said,that lift motor is very similar to one used in an Electrolux vacuum cleaner.Perhap Google will reveal all.