Numpties guide to injector removal?

A

Andrew_Fanner

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 Mar 2002
Messages
8,514
Location
ked into poverty by children
Visit site
This coming weekend marks a new level of engine DIY for me, pulling out a set of injectors. Anyone got any wise suggestions or even a "words and music" web page on this arcane art. I doubt that they have been out for a good 5 years or so and judging by the corrosion elsewhere on the lump, I may have rust and other nasties with which to contend. With luck Mr LSUK (unless better = cheaper exists in the area) in Portsmouth can then fix them and stop the immense clouds of white smoke that are created, or at least eliminate the injectors from my enquiries.

Paranoia is exacerbated by an experience years ago involving over vigorous removal of a spark plug from an Imp which resulted in a head off, drill out bottom part of plug and Helicoil job. (Yes, I know that injectors don't screw in)

Of course, afterwards comes putting them back...

Whoops. Perkins HT6354s
 
Another good fuel injector firm in Pompey are.

Power Drive
Dundas Spur
Portsmouth
PO3 5NX

tel : 023 92662255
 
As per Haynes manual, "undo securing nut with clamp and withdraw injector" doesn't sound hard /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
They may not be as bad as you fear! Sometimes, depending on the type of Injector, a small slide hammer is screwed onto the Injector to aid removal. It might help to give em a spray of WD40 or similiar a day or two before you commence surgery! Good Luck.
 
Talking specifically about 6354's.

Ideally a small slide hammer first, but if the injectors a well stuck, you can...

If your going to use a spanner to ‘un-screw’ the injector, ok its not screwed in but using a screwing motion to ease it, make sure you screw clock-wise only. Very important as you risk un-screwing the injector body and you’ll be left with the bottom half of the injector in the head!!

Equally so you can, if its sticking, find an equivalent bolt which mirrors the bleed-off banjo bolt, screw that in said bleed-off hole and with a ‘small pri-bar’ gently lever under said bolt thus easing the injector up and out.

What ever you do give the injectors a good squirt of something or other first if its all abit rusty, let it soak in before trying to remove them.
 
I removed mine recently, from the naturally aspirated version of the same engine.

a) penetrating oil for a few days down the edges of each injector

b) Leak pipe off, two nuts on either side of each injector off, injector pipe unscrewed at the injector end (you will need to loosen some of their brakcets to withdraw injectors).

c) swivel the injectors clockwise and anti clockwise using a spanner. I don't recal there was much movement - 5 to 10 degrees - but it loosened them before withdrawing. Be careful this does not uncrew the injector assembly - if you need a reasonable amount of force do it clockwise.

d) To withdraw, I gently prized them out using a screwdriver under each 'wing' whilst another person continued the swivelling movement. They came out very easily.

e) If the copper washer does not come out attached to an injector, find a flat headed screwdriver that can just about be wedged inside a washer. Poke it down into the head and gently wedge it into the washer then withdraw gently - I had to do this with several of mine.

Except the soaking in oil, for me the above went without a hitch and only took less than 30 mins, much to my relief! Hope your's is as straighforward.

Note that I've only done it the once, so the above is not based a much experience.
 
I haven't worked on this engine but you need to make sure the injectors aren't sleeved as many Volvos are. If they are, you must use the proper removal tool otherwise there is a danger of removing the sleeve as well. Not the best course of action!
 
Yes Pheran is correct if the injectors are sleeved then you MUST NOT remove them with the copper sleeve atttached - Volvo do a special removal tool its about £12 and pulls them out leeving the sleeve in place - if you remove the copper sleeve then you need to replace it with a new one the old one cant go back once removed - the guy next to me learnt this the hard way!! instead of £12 and some elbo greece it cost him £400 to replace 2 of them ...... I did the job earlier this yer and with the tool took about and hour to get all six out correctly leaving the sleeves in place ...

Good Luck
 
You should not have any problems removing them, use 2 crow foot bars one either side of injector, it they wont come then remove the studs and rotate inj, spray with wd etc, be carefull not to put too much sideways movement as you may snap it in half!.

As for your white smoke im afraid new injectors wont cure that unless they are really bad, if they start and tickover ok when cold then there aint much wrong with them, remember these engine are a very old design, the white smoke is down to it being a low compression turbo engine, designed in the early days when all people wanted was power at high rpm and nothing else.

Once the engines are up to working temp then there should be no whit/grey smoke only black when accelerating hard on to the plane , when the turbos catch up with the lag and give the correct air/fuel ratio mix for a clean and efficient burn.
 
>>>
As for your white smoke im afraid new injectors wont cure that unless they are really bad, if they start and tickover ok when cold then there aint much wrong with them, remember these engine are a very old design, the white smoke is down to it being a low compression turbo engine, designed in the early days when all people wanted was power at high rpm and nothing else.
>>>
Start and tickover is fine, starts at once and runs pretty smoothly but the amount of smoke is very much of the order of "Make smoke Chief Engineer!" and enormously out of proportion with the other one which is faint grey haze after a minute or so. You really wouldn't want to be right behind me in a lock on startup, or indeed even in the lock. If the injectors turn out not to be the problem then its fuel pump I guess, and if not that then goodness knows. No idea if they have ever been serviced so won't do any harm.

Getting used to old tech, not a metric nut or bolt to be found:-)
 
Your injectors are not sleeved, only the idiots at Volvo use this system. It's an easy job, pentrating oil, loosen from side to side as suggested then lever out. Unless you are Charles Atlas (showing my age now) you won't break them off.
 
Job best started a the week before with penetrating oil (or diesel).

As put elswhere, remove the plumbing and the clamp, get a spanner on the flats and gently ease to and fro to loosen and apply upward pressure at the same time.

Some people use an assistant with a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut to apply presure from the inside. Would advise against using the starter motor though!
 
Why not just slacken the clamp bolt, and spin the engine over once or twice on the starter with the stop button in? Is this heinous? Seems like they'd pretty much obviate any need from bolt-head bothering and spanner-swinging.. Not that I've tried it you understand...
 
By 'Eck that were easy. Thanks all. Now, for the next topic, numpties guide to putting the damn things back again.

I'm guessing that the relatively clean ones are fairly OK and the vile cruddy and coated with carbon ones are pretty much not:-)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top