NOT changing the primary fuel filter every year?

[dom]

Saw one of these on a chum's boat yesterday. Not cheap at £193 plus £10 per filter https://www.asap-supplies.com/parker-racor-500fg-diesel-fuel-filter?nosto=nosto-page-product3 but looks jolly easy and considerably cleaner to do compared to my usual Exxon Valdez experience! Might pick one up from ASAP on Monday before heading off on our cruise, and swap over on a rainy day in port...?

Hold on! I bought mine from Ebay for a good deal less. I think it was this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-877...hash=item2c88ec0042:m:mFsLBg0EV6gxZH_YCAHU6tw

I would also suggest that you go down to 10 microns as there will be no material pressure drop using a 30hp with a big filter like this. You will also need the correct hose tails, some new diesel pipe, etc. And remember it must be ISO 740 fuel hose for insurance purposes.

Changing these top loading filters is so easy, just unscrew the lid, catch the little lugs on the filter and pull it out, stick in the new one + new o-ring, lid on and off you go. And if water should ever form more than a few cm at the bottom of the lass bowl, a little valve will close and stop the flow.

Sooo much cheap than getting trash in your injectors!!

 

[Babylon]

Hold on! I bought mine from Ebay for a good deal less. I think it was this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-877...hash=item2c88ec0042:m:mFsLBg0EV6gxZH_YCAHU6tw

I would also suggest that you go down to 10 microns as there will be no material pressure drop using a 30hp with a big filter like this. You will also need the correct hose tails, some new diesel pipe, etc. And remember it must be ISO 740 fuel hose for insurance purposes.

Cheers for that Dom

I assume that its a genuine Recor item and not a copy, that the Volvo label is supplementary, and that the 30micron description is just the filter - that a 10micron drop-in replacement will reduce?

My fuel-hose installation is but six years old, from when I re-engined, and fitted by the Beta dealer, so I assume up to current standards? Cheap enough though to just renew really.

 

[dom]

Cheers for that Dom

I assume that its a genuine Recor item and not a copy, that the Volvo label is supplementary, and that the 30micron description is just the filter - that a 10micron drop-in replacement will reduce?

My fuel-hose installation is but six years old, from when I re-engined, and fitted by the Beta dealer, so I assume up to current standards? Cheap enough though to just renew really.

Yes the one I got was a genuine. Parker unit. The copies are usully marked 'Racor-type', but everyone not so honest. The unit is indeed a standard 500FG30 unit, the 30 does as you say imply 30 micron, and the cartridge filters are interchangeable.

The additional hose I referred to was was really only because a little extra may to required fit the new item as I'm sure the correct hose has been supplied.

One last thing: do check your measurements and ensure you have sufficient vertical clearance before purchase as these units are quite tall!

 

[superheat6k]

The hours run along with monitoring for contaminants is a perfectly reasonable approach IMHO. Last year I had Finnings test my oil which after ~70 hours was just fine and has therefore gone round again.

I use decent known make filters on the engine, but not necessarily Fleetguard (Cummins) nor Volvo Penta labelled filters (it is the same on engine element for both the 6BTA5.9 and TAMD60C btw) and Racor copies for my pre filters, but these are made by a Chinese firm Rongsun Headman, who manufacture for other brand names, and for which we have ourselves professionally under taken extensive testing for use of their automotive filters on a large commercial refrigeration application which they passed with flying colours. and indeed after 5 years service have continued to prove their worth.

I do change the pre-filter each year at the same time I examine the surface of the filter, which as these are larger capacity motor boat engines I use 30 micron. This year my hours will sadly be lower at around 60 I expect and I intend to repeat the Finning analysis and se what they come back with for the engine oil. I will be changing the on engine filters this year, but feel this is only a precaution.

I would suggest that retaining the dirty filters, allowing them to drain for a few days and then slicing the end off with hacksaw can reveal just how stressed or otherwise the elements within are, as well as how they are made and function.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I also used to have the primary CAV filters which are a PITA - I've changed mine to a CAV screw-on type from SSLdieselparts it is supplied with UNF ports so a direct replacement(Metric threads also available for newer installations). Filter changing is SO much easier, and cleaner, very little spillage at all, but I always have a container underneath. I always replace both primary and secondary filters each year and even though I use only about 70-100 litres each year, I usually have a small amount of black sludge sitting in the top of the filter.

 

[lw395]

Yes the one I got was a genuine. Parker unit. The copies are usully marked 'Racor-type', but everyone not so honest. The unit is indeed a standard 500FG30 unit, the 30 does as you say imply 30 micron, and the cartridge filters are interchangeable.

The additional hose I referred to was was really only because a little extra may to required fit the new item as I'm sure the correct hose has been supplied.

One last thing: do check your measurements and ensure you have sufficient vertical clearance before purchase as these units are quite tall!

The only thing with these, the first stage of water separation is supposed to be centrifugal.
I'm not sure how well that's going to work with a filter designed for 60gph running at about 1 gph?

I really don't understand what people find so hard about the CAV filter?
After all if farmers can do it.....

I suppose farmers don't mind making a mess, but I have a tupperware container that the old filter just drops into.
Changing the filter is rated at 0.5 KR on our company scale
This is a parody of the Haynes Manual 'spanner' ratings.
1 KR = you'll need a whole kitchen roll to clean up.
2 KR = did you really mean to do this?

 

[dom]

The only thing with these, the first stage of water separation is supposed to be centrifugal.
I'm not sure how well that's going to work with a filter designed for 60gph running at about 1 gph?

I really don't understand what people find so hard about the CAV filter?
After all if farmers can do it.....

Hmm, i don't know the answer to that. I do however understand that Racor's so-called centrifugal effect is more to give water droplets time to agglomerate as opposed to being spun out in the conventional sense. Well worth a call to Parker to clarify, but in any event it is a sort of added freebe.

Re the farmers; true, but they don't try and change their filters leaning down from a bucking heifer

 

[ashtead]

Have read thread with interest. How easy is it to fit a racor filter assuming there is required space ? Is it worth fitting one of the twin filters which ASAP sell with a switching capability or is the cost disproportionate to risks? On our previous boat we fitted filter with glass bowl so just trying to consider best approach on new boat and route to go. We don't like most yachts use that much diesel per year but has anyone written article on merits of different filters by any chance? Historically use for an M&s small tub from chocolate bites to catch diesel on changes but are there any downsides on a top loading version?

 

[RichardS]

The hours run along with monitoring for contaminants is a perfectly reasonable approach IMHO. Last year I had Finnings test my oil which after ~70 hours was just fine and has therefore gone round again.

That's interesting Superheat. A construction equipment lease firm was part of the group I worked for once and they never changed the oil until it needed changing and this is on equipment which costs thousands per day if it's broken down and out of service, so that's a principle I've followed for years. This means the oil in my cars, boats, outboards, lawnmowers, anything, might "go round again" many times for many years until it's "expired".

Richard

 

[RichardS]

Have read thread with interest. How easy is it to fit a racor filter assuming there is required space ? Is it worth fitting one of the twin filters which ASAP sell with a switching capability or is the cost disproportionate to risks? On our previous boat we fitted filter with glass bowl so just trying to consider best approach on new boat and route to go. We don't like most yachts use that much diesel per year but has anyone written article on merits of different filters by any chance? Historically use for an M&s small tub from chocolate bites to catch diesel on changes but are there any downsides on a top loading version?

The only slight difficulty with fitting the Racor filter is that you need to find the correct fittings to screw into the inlet and outlet ports of the filter and then convert those to the size/type required to match with your existing fuel system. However, once you have sussed out what is required, the rest is just a matter of shopping around. If I recall correctly the Racor ports are 3/4 - 16 UNF so it's just a matter of mating that with your current hoses.

Once you have the Racor fitted you can use 10, 20 or 30 micron filters (I use 10). With the 500FG it's so easy to pull up the filter to check it's condition and drop it back if it's clean. Two minute job, no mess, no leaks, no brainer.

Richard

 

[ashtead]

Richard
Many thanks I will do some research on what I have currently on system to ensure the threads are compatible but this seems like a sensible improvement to make to system.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi
I would definitely say it's worth changing every year. Surely at little expense and effort ?
The primary is the first line of defence against the odd and random slug of poor and/or water saturated fuel.
As for the condition based monitoring theory...as an engineer, I'm all for that, but not in a boat. If a shore based engine/generator/turbine or whatever breaks down...it stays where it is until someone can fix it and lives are seldom at risk....Boats don't and are a different matter.

 

[superheat6k]

Richard
Many thanks I will do some research on what I have currently on system to ensure the threads are compatible but this seems like a sensible improvement to make to system.

Most fuel lines are either 10mm or 3/8" OD. Measure closely to identify what you size you have then obtain compression fittings and extra copper pipe to match - do not try to interchange between the two very similar sizes.

Bearing Traders website lists virtually every type of fitting you are likely to require ...

http://www.bearingtraders-catalogue.co.uk/

 

[geem]

Our 86hp Perkins engine comes with two large spin on filters. The first filter has a water sensor that displays on the engine control panel. The second filter on the engine is the same size. The service interval is 500 hours. I change the filters every two years as we only do about 150 hours per year. I dont worry about a blocked filter. The tank is clean, we use biocide and the filters are super easy to change if one did become blocked.

 

[ashtead]

Many thanks superheat - I would expect standard 10mm being a fairly standard volvo 40 unit but I will take some measurements and ask someone to verify my findings on bits needed. I might even have some help fitting though . I have only had a block fuel line once but anything to minimise risk

 

[ghostlymoron]

I think primary and secondary are clear terms, they are both in line.The secondary rarely gets dirty as it is protected by the primary but if the element are cheap,
you may as well replace both annually. If you've got an expensive Racor,
probably just check annually and replace if necessary.

Question:

Why do we continue mentioning the 'primary' or the 'secondary' filter? Would it not be simpler, clearer and less prone to confusion if we were to refer to the "in-line filter" as distinct from the "on-engine filter"?
Perhaps it is just my old age...

 

[ghostlymoron]

I don't see how nitrile gloves can help with testicular cancer -
I wear them on my hands.

Agree. Buy a box of blue nitrile gloves for about a fiver and leave them on the boat.

Maybe I'm a prissy cissy pansy snowflake, but I personally loathe diesel getting anywhere it shouldn't. Beastly stuff, same with petrol and most other hydrocarbons. Apparently, before disposable gloves became the norm, motor engineers used to be prone to cancers around their privates, due to scratching - through their overalls etc - in that region.



Makes certain sense though: the primary is the first filter the fuel reaches from the tank, the secondary the second one.

 

[lw395]

I don't see how nitrile gloves can help with testicular cancer -
I wear them on my hands.

I recall a sign from a certain factory.
'This is the plating shop. Wash your hands BEFORE going to the toilet.'

 

[Babylon]

I don't see how nitrile gloves can help with testicular cancer -
I wear them on my hands.

I got that slightly wrong, sorry. The correct version goes, I think, like this: in the days before disposable gloves and paper towels, motor mechanics used to wipe their hands on a rag, which they'd then stuff into a pocket in their overalls, thus the cotton surrounding the groin would become gradually impregnated with oil through the day, and the cycle would repeat day after day, year after year, despite washing.

 

[Poignard]

The installation instructions for my BUKH DV10 do not require any filter between the tank and the lift pump. The only filtering being done by the disposable cartridge filter on the engine, which is downstream of the lift pump.
However, on my boat, a previous owner fitted a CAV filter between tank and lift pump and I replaced this with a Racor filter, which is very accessible and it is easy to change the element without mess.

Having now got this Racor filter, I can’t see why I still need the filter on the engine, which is messy and awkward to change and invariably lets some diesel fall onto the engine mount below it; which rots it. I’m thinking of doing away with this filter altogether and just relying on the Racor.

Anyone see any objection to this?