Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
I do not have the twist & lock .( mine is the grey handle circa 2003) Can one buy this as an adaption to the original unit or are all the mountings different?
Non Return Valve for heads?
- Thread starter Norman_E
- Start date
RichardS
N/A
Mountings are the same. Just buy a T&L pump unit (blue handle) which I think comes with a new bottom flap valve which the T&L handle will push down on to seal.
Having said that, I replaced the entire toilet - bowl, seat, lid - as a cheap deal on eBay was not that much more expensive and I sold the old toilet on eBay for £40.
Richard
davidej
Well-Known Member
I have had a similar problem for years but found that if you pump dry for half a dozen strokes after the bowl is empty, we get a sucking sound. When I hear that, I don't get any backflow.
Incidentally, I bought a Whale non return valve, but found it was just like a joker valve so figured that if the Jabsco one didn't do the business, why would this one.
Incidentally, I bought a Whale non return valve, but found it was just like a joker valve so figured that if the Jabsco one didn't do the business, why would this one.
affinite
Well-Known Member
I have this horrible vision of you bringing the old toilet back in hand luggage to sell on eBay :disgust:
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Returning to the original question, traditional NRVs need a reasonable head for them to seal properly so is unlike to work with only a foot or so of head behind them. A spring loaded one would stand a better chance.
RichardS
N/A
RichardS
N/A
Luckily I had the car! If I had flown back I could have used the Jabsco in the aisle instead of those awful sucking bog things they have on the plane.
Richard
pvb
Well-Known Member
You're supposed to get off before pressing the button.
prv
Well-Known Member
Unless suffering from persistent constipation, I suppose, in which case it would offer a kind of power-assist
Pete
wonkywinch
Well-Known Member
Managed to block the heads this weekend. It's an electric Jabsco quietflush into a holding tank. Flushing just swirls the contents of the bowl but it doesn't empty/drain at all. Taking things apart this morning, there is no problem with the impellor/joker valve since the water ejects from the pan connector at a high rate of knots.
I tried applying a vacuum to the outside vent using a wet & dry vac, the holding tank compresses in, so it's taking the suction, but nothing (much) drawn up into the tank. Tried the wet & dry on blow to push pipe contents up into the tank, but again, nothing, the hoover pipe expands but there is no flow of air through the waste pipe. I've wiggled the bends and checked there is no blockage at the elbow into the holding tank.
I have found what looks like a Jabsco/Whale non return valve in the pipework, about level with the pan that also acts as a 1" to 1.5" adaptor. I can't see a drawing online how this works but assuming it's just a flap, my guess is there are solids that have come back down the 1.5" riser to the holding tank and are sitting on the top of the flap preventing it from being pushed open. Tapping the outside of the valve with the wet & dry vac supplied pressure on the 1" pipe does nothing. Next stop is to push a small drain cleaning rod up through the 1" pipe (disconnected from joker vale outlet) and see if I can get the non return valve to open.
My questions. Is this a sensible idea? Secondly, should there be a non return valve in there? I haven't seen one before and I thought that was the role of the joker valve. The boat is a 2016 Beneteau Oceanis.
Edited my post to add to existing topic that shows it's been done/considered but still interested in current thought.
Planning to push one of these up the pipe from toilet end .
I tried applying a vacuum to the outside vent using a wet & dry vac, the holding tank compresses in, so it's taking the suction, but nothing (much) drawn up into the tank. Tried the wet & dry on blow to push pipe contents up into the tank, but again, nothing, the hoover pipe expands but there is no flow of air through the waste pipe. I've wiggled the bends and checked there is no blockage at the elbow into the holding tank.
I have found what looks like a Jabsco/Whale non return valve in the pipework, about level with the pan that also acts as a 1" to 1.5" adaptor. I can't see a drawing online how this works but assuming it's just a flap, my guess is there are solids that have come back down the 1.5" riser to the holding tank and are sitting on the top of the flap preventing it from being pushed open. Tapping the outside of the valve with the wet & dry vac supplied pressure on the 1" pipe does nothing. Next stop is to push a small drain cleaning rod up through the 1" pipe (disconnected from joker vale outlet) and see if I can get the non return valve to open.
My questions. Is this a sensible idea? Secondly, should there be a non return valve in there? I haven't seen one before and I thought that was the role of the joker valve. The boat is a 2016 Beneteau Oceanis.
Edited my post to add to existing topic that shows it's been done/considered but still interested in current thought.
Planning to push one of these up the pipe from toilet end .
Caladh
Well-Known Member
Exactly what we do Chris
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
Wow, this is an ancient thread. I sold the boat 3 years ago. I did not have a diverter valve to pump direct to sea, but could dump the tank contents to sea if well offshore, though the contents were normally pumped out to onshore facilities. I did in fact fit 38mm Tru-Design non-return valves to both heads. These are lightly sprung and proved very successful, only occasionally failing to prevent flowback, and quickly cured by pumping plenty of water if they did. I found twist and lock useless as the pressure on the flap valves distorted them, leading to leakage. As the boat was in Turkey and it was cheaper to buy a complete new Jabsco toilet in the UK than it was to get a complete spares kit in Turkey I bought a new toilet and took it all except the heavy bowl out to Turkey. I rebuilt the most used head with all new parts except the bowl. Even with what was essentially a completely new toilet I still had regular flowback until I fitted the non return valves.
wonkywinch
Well-Known Member
I tried to tack onto existing posts (however old) to avoid internet forums being clogged with the repeats of the same topic. The only exception of course are radio check & anchor posts
Looking at a picture of the Trudesign, there appears to be a spring mechanism inside the fitting. Does this not get in the way of any .. ahem .. solids passing by?
Refueler
Well-Known Member
When it comes to anything that has solids / near solids and tissue going through - there is nothing like a proper valve to control it. NR valves are notorious for being 'propped' open ...
Just a bit of info : Ships usually have 'flapper' valves on the grey / black water outlets. Yes I know that ships for some years have been required to have on-board retention ... and many have the recycling water setups as well.
But those 'flapper' valves are notorious for not closing properly despite their size and weight. Many ships - when rolling - you hear the sinks etc making surging noises as the 'flapper' vavle has not closed properly.
I fitted a NR to my bilge pump .... then promptly removed it. a) it needed more pressure to open it ... b) when it did - the flow was seriously reduced. I then fitted a normal valve !
Just a bit of info : Ships usually have 'flapper' valves on the grey / black water outlets. Yes I know that ships for some years have been required to have on-board retention ... and many have the recycling water setups as well.
But those 'flapper' valves are notorious for not closing properly despite their size and weight. Many ships - when rolling - you hear the sinks etc making surging noises as the 'flapper' vavle has not closed properly.
I fitted a NR to my bilge pump .... then promptly removed it. a) it needed more pressure to open it ... b) when it did - the flow was seriously reduced. I then fitted a normal valve !
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
There are various types of non return valves from flan to spring loaded to the heart type non return valve as usen in the outlet of the henderson Mk V pump
Some are better as preventing back flow some require more pressure than others to open
Different types for different applications
Some are better as preventing back flow some require more pressure than others to open
Different types for different applications
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Solids are well macerated by the foot and joker valves. Paper is shredded. What comes out of the skin fitting is brown soup.I tried to tack onto existing posts (however old) to avoid internet forums being clogged with the repeats of the same topic. The only exception of course are radio check & anchor posts
Looking at a picture of the Trudesign, there appears to be a spring mechanism inside the fitting. Does this not get in the way of any .. ahem .. solids passing by?
View attachment 165411
VicS
Well-Known Member
Perhaps one like this would be a good idea. You'd be able to watch the solids being pumped up the pipe and see if any blockages occur.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Understood .... hopefully remains like that ...
Blockages still occur downline from such valves ... only have to check odd forum posts ....
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Indeed, but most blockages are initiated by carbonate accumulations. My holding tank was once blocked by a flake of it that fell off one wall of the tank.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
There is also the 'gender based' incidents !! Certain items flushed that do not break down ......
Two owners I know off had that happen to them.
Two owners I know off had that happen to them.