Tranona
Well-Known Member
Yes, your engine is pre CE marking rules so won't have the same ID plate as newer engines. Pretty sure Beta will be able to tell if it is one of theirs.
Nicholson 26 Owners Ass
- Thread starter NDC
- Start date
SpinningGill
New Member
I've just spoken to Beta who tell me that it's a Beta 14. 
niallw70
Active Member
Please bear with me as I start another new topic for the Nic 26 forumites to chew on. My current depth sounder (a NASA model pre 2008, with in hull mounting kit) does work, but I suspect the thickness and shear hull profile, means my sounder cannot get an accurate reading. I've tried replacing the oil, no joy, still the same. It does produce a faint steady clicking sound, suggesting it is working. My transducer is fitted on starboard side of hull (directly under end of chart table and about at the maximum beam of boat) pointing vertically which means the sound must travel through the grp hull which is ~30deg to the horizontal cross section. When I think about it, no wonder its not getting a depth reading!
As I write this, I think I've already thought of a solution to the problem. I really do not want to put another hole in my hull for a thru hull sounder, but I do already have two existing holes for the heads. New rules mean we are not allowed to discharge sewage into the sea, so my heads water inlet and outlet are effectively redundant. I will modify my water inlet to fit a through hull transducer and permanently seal the other hole. Sounds like a plan for next winter! Please see my other post about hitting a submerged rock and the repair I'm now planning, this navigational error has now nudged me into sorting out my depth sounder problem.
P.S. If anyone has a in-hull transducer that does give accurate readings, I'd still like to know where you mounted it and the brand of sounder system used.
As I write this, I think I've already thought of a solution to the problem. I really do not want to put another hole in my hull for a thru hull sounder, but I do already have two existing holes for the heads. New rules mean we are not allowed to discharge sewage into the sea, so my heads water inlet and outlet are effectively redundant. I will modify my water inlet to fit a through hull transducer and permanently seal the other hole. Sounds like a plan for next winter! Please see my other post about hitting a submerged rock and the repair I'm now planning, this navigational error has now nudged me into sorting out my depth sounder problem.
P.S. If anyone has a in-hull transducer that does give accurate readings, I'd still like to know where you mounted it and the brand of sounder system used.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
I've got 2 transducers, both mounted inboard on the centreline ahead of the keel. One is Garmin the other is NASA, they both work OK. Both mounted on a small blob of OB1/CT1.
SpinningGill
New Member
Ok, a new question. We hoisted the mainsail for the first time yesterday. Its number is 1082Y. Is this something to do with Nicholson's, Burnes Boatyard, or just a sail that happened to fit? 
alahol2
Well-Known Member
I think I'm right in saying that the RYA will allocate sail numbers, primarily for racing id. I believe a builder or class can request a block of numbers which they then allocate. Whether your number relates to class/builder/yard or just your boat I don't know.
aslabend
Well-Known Member
My nic26 sail no. Is 1102Y ..... Close but no idea why. Did people really race in them?
SpinningGill
New Member
Another new question (sorry ). We're needing to renew our exhaust system. The current one has splitting hose and an old, worn out "Elastomuffle" silencer.
Bearing in mind the cramped nature under the cockpit sole on a Nic 26, I was wondering what others may have done when needing to replace exhaust bits.
We've been looking into various Vetus muffler/silencer/waterlocks etc. What do other think?
TIA
). We're needing to renew our exhaust system. The current one has splitting hose and an old, worn out "Elastomuffle" silencer.Bearing in mind the cramped nature under the cockpit sole on a Nic 26, I was wondering what others may have done when needing to replace exhaust bits.
We've been looking into various Vetus muffler/silencer/waterlocks etc. What do other think?
TIA
jamie N
Well-Known Member
On my Folkboat, had a S/S manifold made by a guy near Inverness, it then has the flexible exhaust hose, up to a fairly standard type water block, and out of the back of the boat.
By coincidence, I do have a Vetus waterblock that is for sale in the for sale section of YBW...., plus I'm Inverness based on pontoon E opposite you guys, as seen in your photo from post #25!
By coincidence, I do have a Vetus waterblock that is for sale in the for sale section of YBW...., plus I'm Inverness based on pontoon E opposite you guys, as seen in your photo from post #25!
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Tranona
Well-Known Member
Either the NLP type Jamie has if you have enough depth below the exhaust outlet to get the necessary 30cm fall of pipe or the WLOK type also from Vetus. Make sure you get the right hose sizes for your engine.Another new question (sorry
Bearing in mind the cramped nature under the cockpit sole on a Nic 26, I was wondering what others may have done when needing to replace exhaust bits.
We've been looking into various Vetus muffler/silencer/waterlocks etc. What do other think?
TIA
SpinningGill
New Member
We're going to have another measuring session on Sunday, but we think that that we're going to need the long low waterlock/muffler type to get the required 2" drop from the exhaust elbow fitting - either Vetus or Centek.
jamie N
Well-Known Member
I'll leave the unit in my cockpit over the weekend, so you can actually have it hands on to see if it suits.
SpinningGill
New Member
That'd be great. Many thanks.
swampy46
New Member
My friend has just bought a Nicholson 26 called "Ulana" looking for some history I found this forum and in a pdf ecf list I noticed a member called gunfleet on this site had this boat a few years ago
I'm hoping he is still on the site and that he has pics from when he had her
I'm hoping he is still on the site and that he has pics from when he had her
SpinningGill
New Member
We checked out the spinnaker the other day, which has the year 1969 stamped on it - and the number 1062Y.
Curiouser and curiouser.
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SpinningGill
New Member
Hi again.
I was wondering about the woodwork on the outside of our Nic 26. Would it have been varnished originally, or treated with teak oil?
What do people use on their woodwork?
I was wondering about the woodwork on the outside of our Nic 26. Would it have been varnished originally, or treated with teak oil?
What do people use on their woodwork?
Tranona
Well-Known Member
It is probably either teak or mahogany. The former is often left bare. some people use teak oil, but it is pretty much a waste of time and effort as it both attracts dirt and then disappears in a short period of time meaning you are forever replenishing.
If you want a good finish and protection then a proper coating after stripping back to bare wood is the way to go. there are essentially 3 different types of coating. Traditional varnishes which are single pot and come in various different forms that work by building up coats to seal the wood from moisture. Second are 2 pot coatings which form a hard impervious shell on top of the wood. Last and becoming more common are porous woodstains, mostly carried over from the construction industry although all the main manufacturers have products of this type aimed specifically at the yacht market. These are mostly single pot although there are 2 part (one after the other) products available. Application methods vary. Some are simple brush on and leave to dry, others more labour intensive with multiple coats at set intervals. All require somewhat similar preparation of back to bare wood although it is possible to recoat sound existing surfaces with some products.
You will find advocates of all of these. Personally I use woodstains as the best balance of cost/effort/appearance and durability. The simplest product is International Woodskin which I use, but it does have downsides, particularly the less than shiny finish and shorter life on horizontal surfaces. Photos show the teak trim on my boat
If you want a good finish and protection then a proper coating after stripping back to bare wood is the way to go. there are essentially 3 different types of coating. Traditional varnishes which are single pot and come in various different forms that work by building up coats to seal the wood from moisture. Second are 2 pot coatings which form a hard impervious shell on top of the wood. Last and becoming more common are porous woodstains, mostly carried over from the construction industry although all the main manufacturers have products of this type aimed specifically at the yacht market. These are mostly single pot although there are 2 part (one after the other) products available. Application methods vary. Some are simple brush on and leave to dry, others more labour intensive with multiple coats at set intervals. All require somewhat similar preparation of back to bare wood although it is possible to recoat sound existing surfaces with some products.
You will find advocates of all of these. Personally I use woodstains as the best balance of cost/effort/appearance and durability. The simplest product is International Woodskin which I use, but it does have downsides, particularly the less than shiny finish and shorter life on horizontal surfaces. Photos show the teak trim on my boat
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SpinningGill
New Member
That's great. Thank you for the advice.
Vinne
New Member
Holy crap I'm not sure how I missed the existence of this thread, but my famliy has been in possesion of a nic 26 for about 10 years now.
Just to make sure it's out there i'm going to put a list of issues we had in this post.
leaking cabin vents
the toilet hatch fell off
the bottom rudder bearing was completely worn out and also loose (I still have a spare if someone needs it)
leaking windows
the bottom of the cockpit lockers were rotted out
the compression post was severely corroded
leaks somewhere near the companion way that got into the fiberglass and constantly drip onto the motor
the ballast delaminated from the fiberglass on one side
I took over repsonibility for her about 4 years ago and then spent 2 years getting her into a sailable shape (putting a new coat of antifouling turned into the rudder bearing into reglassing the rudder and a million other things), and she is now getting a proper refit as there are just too many patchwork repairs that have piled up.
Just to make sure it's out there i'm going to put a list of issues we had in this post.
leaking cabin vents
the toilet hatch fell off
the bottom rudder bearing was completely worn out and also loose (I still have a spare if someone needs it)
leaking windows
the bottom of the cockpit lockers were rotted out
the compression post was severely corroded
leaks somewhere near the companion way that got into the fiberglass and constantly drip onto the motor
the ballast delaminated from the fiberglass on one side
I took over repsonibility for her about 4 years ago and then spent 2 years getting her into a sailable shape (putting a new coat of antifouling turned into the rudder bearing into reglassing the rudder and a million other things), and she is now getting a proper refit as there are just too many patchwork repairs that have piled up.
niallw70
Active Member
Hi Vinnie, the corroded compression post and rotted cockpit lockers problem sounds familiar but your fibreglass delamination from the ballast is a new one, Ive not heard of. We (I for one) would love more details on this; what was your first awareness of this delamination? Visible externally or from cabin? What is the extent of it and please give us some pics of problem and remedial action if any has been attempted yet.
