Newby question on oil change. Do I need to bleed?

[vertford]

I am going to attempt my first oil change on a Yanmar 1GM10:my first on anything mechanical. My reading leads me to believe I run the engine for 5 mins, pump out old oil and pour in new stuff. After that I change the oil filter.

My query is do I need to bleed anything after the change? Or is that only a fuel activity e.g changing the fuel filter? I am assuming that the oil system is a different system.

Thanks

 

[tel1]

I am going to attempt my first oil change on a Yanmar 1GM10:my first on anything mechanical. My reading leads me to believe I run the engine for 5 mins, pump out old oil and pour in new stuff. After that I change the oil filter.

My query is do I need to bleed anything after the change? Or is that only a fuel activity e.g changing the fuel filter? I am assuming that the oil system is a different system.

Thanks

just do as you have read and you wont go wrong. no bleeding needed.

 

[sarabande]

you may find that 5 mins is not really long enough to get the oil properly warmed up.

When changing the oil filter it's useful to wrap it in a strong plastic bag to try and reduce spillage on the deck.

How are you getting the oil out of the sump ? Is there an installed pump, or are you using a Pela vacuum sucker ?

It's worth changing the oil seal where the filter meets the engine to ensure a decent seal. Also wipe a little fresh oil round the seal.

Finally, using an indelible marker pen, write the date and engine hours on the filter.

The engine will make some odd sounds for a few seconds when you start it up, until the new oil start circulating; try and keep the revs low till the normal sound resumes.

Have fun !

 

[Skysail]

5 minutes is maybe too short to really warm the oil, I would go for 10 minutes, perhaps purely a personal prejudice. A Pela vacuum pump is the best oil extractor. Smear some oil on the rubber seal of the new filter.

After refilling, run the engine again and re check the oil level.

 

[sailorman]

I am going to attempt my first oil change on a Yanmar 1GM10:my first on anything mechanical. My reading leads me to believe I run the engine for 5 mins, pump out old oil and pour in new stuff. After that I change the oil filter.

My query is do I need to bleed anything after the change? Or is that only a fuel activity e.g changing the fuel filter? I am assuming that the oil system is a different system.

Thanks

warm to working temp
drain oil
remove filter & refit a new one ( i add some oil into the new filter)
refill sump with stated quant of oil
run engine for a few mins then check for leaks then stop & check levels
oil 15>40 cc or higher

Oil Filter
Coopers 2819, Diesel Mazda323 or Crosslands 672


My list of equivalents for the 1gm10 filters is:
Oil Filters
LF3462 Fleetguard
L14459 Purolator
PH9688 Fram
PH6811 Fram
PH 3593A Fram
672 Crosland

 

[tel1]

try and keep the revs low till the normal sound resumes.

Have fun !

Hmmmm there should be no try in it, you should allways start a diesel with low revs. Diesels like to be run hard, but only when there warm.

 

[Divemaster1]

Asothers have said, 5 min may be too short ... but irrespective, try to run her under load as that will increase fuel burn and thus heat generation ..making her warm up faster.

Next is change of oil and filter... as discribed.

Before starting up again I would however turn the engine over for 5 - 10 seconds ... perhaps twice whilst having the fuel shut off to prevent it starting. This will ensure new oil will circulate into filter and start filling up the oil filter and building pressure without the engine running at idle speeds..

 

[shmoo]

Two points:

1) Forgive me if the following is completely obvious, but I don't think anyone has actually said it: the reason you want to heat the oil up is to thin it so it comes out easier and drains out of all the little passages quicker. You are aiming for it to be hot enough to be thin, but not so hot it is painful to handle. If it is not hot enough draining will take longer, that is all. Think about handling several liters of hot cooking oil in a confined space. Have a plan in case you spill it.

2) Although, as several posters have pointed out, bleeding the fuel line is no part of the process in hand, do learn to bleed your engine at the soonest opportunity. One day you may need to do it, possibly quickly, and sod's law says it won't be when you are comfortably tied up alongside!

 

[johnalison]

I can't add anything to the specific advice given, but would suggest that going on a diesel engine course or study-day is well worthwhile. It will clarify the systems for you and you are bound to pick up some useful practical tips. I went on a course run by an engineer's shop, but others are organised by educational institutes and sailing clubs that I know of.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Two points:
1) Although, as several posters have pointed out, bleeding the fuel line is no part of the process in hand, do learn to bleed your engine at the soonest opportunity. One day you may need to do it, possibly quickly, and sod's law says it won't be when you are comfortably tied up alongside!

Second that. I learned to bleed my engine whilst underway - fortunately a calm day - with my experienced companion shouting instructions down the companionway. It would have been easier to learn whilst tied up.
I've been looking for a local deisel engine course but found none local to Shrewsbury.

 

[webcraft]

Second that. I learned to bleed my engine whilst underway - fortunately a calm day - with my experienced companion shouting instructions down the companionway. It would have been easier to learn whilst tied up.
I've been looking for a local deisel engine course but found none local to Shrewsbury.

I first bled an engine in earnest on a 23ft motor sailor wallowing hopelessly in the approach to Harwich with two large ships bearing down - concentrates the mind wonderfully. The job ionvolved hanging head down in a diesel-stinking hole as the old tub rolled her scuppers under.

While wiggling the lever on the pump is the accepted first line of attack the quickest way to be sure is usually to crack the at the injector (spanner on nut at union, do not remove, just turn until it leaks) then crank the engine till fuel comes out with no bubbles then tighten injector while still cranking. Repeat with second injector if a twin.

(I expect loads of peeps will now tell me this is utterly wrong, will destroy engine sink boat etc)

- W

 

[mobeydick]

5 minutes? wayyyy to short in my experience (and others, according to a previous thread). I go out for a motor for half an hour or more, to get the oil mobile enough to suck out using a Pela reasonably quickly. And also (maybe) to get any partcles into suspension.

Any less, and it takes ages to suck out. Never gets 'too hot'.

MD

 

[mattnj]

these is/was a brilliant free diesel engine maintenace DVD going around form the MCA a few years ago, dont know if you can still get hold of it.....but i found it most useful....i have it here, but dont suppose i can make it available for download, the feds will come and get me....maybe email the MCA, see if they can send you one.

 

[milfordman]

Running under load

As previously said run the engine under load. This will get the engine to heat up quiker and avoid glazing the bores. if you are on a swinging mooring you can do this by running in reverse.

I always change the fuel filter every year as a precaution as well as the oil filter.

This will mean you will have to bleed the fuel systyem as well. Doing this while moored up is definatly to be preferred, no pressure and option to get help if required.

 

[Kurrawong_Kid]

I am going to attempt my first oil change on a Yanmar 1GM10:my first on anything mechanical. My reading leads me to believe I run the engine for 5 mins, pump out old oil and pour in new stuff. After that I change the oil filter.

My query is do I need to bleed anything after the change? Or is that only a fuel activity e.g changing the fuel filter? I am assuming that the oil system is a different system.

Thanks

Not quite sure you have the correct sequence. I always drain oil, then remove and change filter, then refill with oil. I don't know about the Yanmar, but with some engines you might get a dribble out of the oil fiter bolt if you have already filled up with oil.
Maybe this is tosh! If so someone will tell me!

 

[jeremyshaw]

Just to add to the previous good advice.

1. If you don't have a vacuum pump I strongly recommend you get one as others have said. They make a huge difference to convenience and mess. Don't be tempted to use it for other things - I know several people who have damaged the valves on them that way but sucking in muck. Those little brass pumps are a real pain in my experience.

2. In the Caribbean I don't always even need to warm the engine such is the effectiveness of the pump. So with a pump maybe a 5 minute warm up will be OK in the UK. You can also just walk away and leave it for a while. If you are lucky your boat might have been fitted with a sump pump like my old one had - worth checking if you are not sure.

3. Getting the filter off can be messy. Try to rig a catcher like a cut down water bottle to pick up the oil. What I do is bang a hole with a screwdriver, use that to give it a half twist off and open up the hole, move the hole to 'south' and let it drain out the oil in the filter while the oil is being sucked out. But every engine is different - it is all down to the access. On my genset engine I don't need to do that. Have a plastic bag to hand to drop the old filter into - but be careful most supermarket bags have small holes in them!

4. Have lots of shop rag or paper towel to hand - more than you think you'll need.

5. It's true when they say 'don't overfill' Oil can get sucked into the breather and cause problems. So allow a minute or two for the oil you just added to settle before adding more. And check it again after several minutes running.

I hate working on engines in principle, and used to get it done for me, but then later living on the boat I needed to be able do it all. I hired a mechanic to show me the ropes on my engine and found that a very good investment. The oil change is easy so just go ahead but bleeding the fuel can be tricky depending on the setup and needs a bit more knowledge.

 

[LadyInBed]

For my two penneth worth, when the engine has warmed up and stopped, I leave it for 20 mins to allow oil to gravitate back to sump.

 

[vertford]

Thanks all. Glad to hear the range of options. Have brought a Pela and am looking at courses.

Regards
Richard

 

[Yakker55]

Thanks all. Glad to hear the range of options. Have brought a Pela and am looking at courses.

Regards
Richard

A couple more thoughts.

1. The Pela is great, but if you ever use it for seawater (I have emptied the last bit from the bilge with it) make sure you rinse it internally afterward. There is a little valve inside that stops it from sucking any more when it is full. If that sticks, as mine did, it will overfill, and start bursting out from around the casing - not nice.

2. Old Jiffy bags are the best thing to put around the filter when you unscrew it. They provide heat protection, don't slip in your hands, are waterproof and are also substantial enough to not burst or reshape themselves when taking up weight.

 

[sunquest]

For my two penneth worth, when the engine has warmed up and stopped, I leave it for 20 mins to allow oil to gravitate back to sump.

There is a school of thought that says oil should be drained cold so as to draw out any bits and pieces which otherwise may reside in the oil chambers. Personally, I pump mine out hot as that is what I have always done. You can't teach an old dog new tricks.