[70521]
Well-Known Member
Gosh, all my sea cocks are located in areas where fat knacker crew can't fall on it or drop a scuba tank on it.When your fat knacker crew falls on it for example. Or drop your scuba tank on it perhaps.
Gosh, all my sea cocks are located in areas where fat knacker crew can't fall on it or drop a scuba tank on it.When your fat knacker crew falls on it for example. Or drop your scuba tank on it perhaps.
Think this is the key point re: requirements specific to the type of vessel. I was thinking the same - on our AWB all seacocks are in cabinets under sinks or behind/beside heads ‘bowls’, etc. If there are heavyset crew members or heavy gear flying around in these areas, we’ve probably got bigger problems than bronze vs composite!Gosh, all my sea cocks are located in areas where fat knacker crew can't fall on it or drop a scuba tank on it.
I disagree with him in part. It is correct that brass balls (zinc coated by the way usually) are not a good choice, but it is not true about affordability. In actual fact you get affordable bronze valves with bronze balls. Apollo make them amongst others.Well I always defer to this guys knowledge because I consider him an expert.
Another example for you to consider. You bash a log in the water. It hits directly your precious plastic though hull. Will it collapse inwards and will a bronze one be much more likely to hold up OK?Gosh, all my sea cocks are located in areas where fat knacker crew can't fall on it or drop a scuba tank on it.
Probably not.Another example for you to consider. You bash a log in the water. It hits directly your precious plastic though hull. Will it collapse inwards and will a bronze one be much more likely to hold up OK?
Totally different material. The plastic used for transducers is aAll the people saying plastic is not suitable, I presume you dont have plastic through hulls for speed or depth transducers?
Chromium plated most commonly but some more expensive ones are electroless nickel plated.I disagree with him in part. It is correct that brass balls (zinc coated by the way usually) are not a good choice, but it is not true about affordability. In actual fact you get affordable bronze valves with bronze balls. Apollo make them amongst others.
Lets work this out.Another example for you to consider. You bash a log in the water. It hits directly your precious plastic though hull. Will it collapse inwards and will a bronze one be much more likely to hold up OK?
Another example for you to consider. You bash a log in the water. It hits directly your precious plastic though hull. Will it collapse inwards and will a bronze one be much more likely to hold up OK?
That's clearly science fiction territory even for a 20kn mobo, let alone a 6 or 8kn sailing yacht. Would be interested in reading a material scientists take followed by a structural engineer's one on this highly unlikely scenario.Another example for you to consider. You bash a log in the water. It hits directly your precious plastic though hull. Will it collapse inwards and will a bronze one be much more likely to hold up OK?
Probably because 1% of boats have plastic skin fittings, and one in 100,000 boats sinks in its slip, so that is a small needle in a big hay stack you are looking for. Look for the broken one first.Never heard of any boat sinking on its mooring unattended due to grp skin fittings, cannot say the same for metallic ones. Even the marelon handle breaking off won't happen by itself!
Cheers
V
Half my through-hulls are near the water line. Hitting a log was just an example. Pretty common in the Pacific North West by the way. Also you could hit other things. In the UK, a semi submerged pram may be your object of choice. Or try bumping into a rock even.Lets work this out.
Lets say the log's diameter is 25 cm and only 25% is above the water and is drifting with the tide.
All my through hulls are under the engine, the galley area or exiting the heads towards the transom. Nothing is anywhere near the waterline. I consider the risk minimal. Each thru hull has a backing plate that is additional protection.
And there's enough people looking at this topic globally that if there was a failure...given Marelon have been around for well over a decade (correct me if I'm wrong), and TruDesign not far behind...and I'm going to say 1% is massively under-egging it...I figure we'd know about it by now.Probably because 1% of boats have plastic skin fittings, and one in 100,000 boats sinks in its slip, so that is a small needle in a big hay stack you are looking for. Look for the broken one first.
I don't reckon your boat manufacturer specifies a lifespan of the fibreglass they sell you either, and for the same reason.How long is a true design seacock expected to last? Can't find that info on their website.
The skin fitting is as strong as the hull it sits in;
No the plastic fitting is not remotely as strong as the hull. Why anyone would choose cheese to make a product from when they could choose kryptonite defeats me. Enjoy your cheese. I’m tired of debating with mules. I’m outa here.It's not clear why you're objecting to Trudesign. The skin fitting is as strong as the hull it sits in; your imaginary log or rock, is I reckon more likely to make a hole in the hull itself than poke the skin fitting through.
No the plastic fitting is not remotely as strong as the hull. Why anyone would choose cheese to make a product from when they could choose kryptonite defeats me. Enjoy your cheese. I’m tired of debating with mules. I’m outa here.