New Electrics

VicS said:
Not sure though that I follow your logic of fitting a tri-colour to use when sailing but don't bother with sidelights, or a bi-colour, when motoring

All you are actually required to to when sailing is to have a torch or lighted lantern available.

IMHO a set of deck level lights is worth having for the day the tricolour does not work or for when it would be difficult to see against a background of shore lights.
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Side lights would easily be lost behind waves on a boat this size and probably not seen when needed. The tricolour is very visible, as is the all around white for motoring. As you say, your comment is your humble opinion and I completely disagree in mine :)
 
lustyd said:
The tricolour is very visible, as is the all around white for motoring.
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Indeed - on my new nav light switch / controller I have the option of "Motor Low" (the conventional bow, stern and steaming lights) and "Motor High", which turns on just the masthead all-round white and the bow bicolour.

Pete
 
prv said:
Indeed - on my new nav light switch / controller I have the option of "Motor Low" (the conventional bow, stern and steaming lights) and "Motor High", which turns on just the masthead all-round white and the bow bicolour.

Pete
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For bonus points, have you managed to wire them so only one can be used? I've often thought yachts should have better arranged switching, the default AWB seems to assume that all sailors will know what to switch on and when leading to the Solent xmas tree tactic so configurations like yours are a vast improvement even if you don't personally need it.
 
lustyd said:
For bonus points, have you managed to wire them so only one can be used?
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Yes - it's a single rotary switch that clicks through:

  • Off
  • Sail Low (bow bicolour, stern)
  • Sail High (tricolour)
  • Motor Low (bow and stern, plus steaming light)
  • Motor High (bow plus all-round white)
  • All Round White (included because the unit is there, but I prefer a hanging lamp above the ball for anchoring)

There's a six-core cable going up to the switch (IP67, in the cockpit), with current going in on one core and then coming back down one of the others, depending on what's selected. This feeds into a simple circuit board (only actual components are some diodes) that energises the appropriate combination of outputs.

As well as the light outputs mentioned above, there's also one labelled "Vane" which is on when any of the "Sail" or "Motor" positions are selected. It's designed to power the upward-pointing not-too-bright LED at the masthead that illuminates the windvane, but it could also be used for the compass light or anything else that should be on when underway at night. Sadly, and unlike the old VDO instruments on Kindred Spirit, there's no way to turn on the ST60 lights with a simple voltage signal - if I wanted these to come on automatically I would need something that speaks Seatalk. I did dangle the idea in front of Angus a while back, but he didn't bite :)

Pete
 
prv said:
... there's no way to turn on the ST60 lights with a simple voltage signal - if I wanted these to come on automatically I would need something that speaks Seatalk. I did dangle the idea in front of Angus a while back, but he didn't bite :)
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This is one of many projects on my back-burner. It will be incorporated into my Mk2 Fuel/RPM Gauge, as this will have SeaTalk and a light, but there is no reason it couldn't be a stand-alone. I envisage a device with a jumper to select the default level, 12V and LightsOn inputs, and SeaTalk bus output. However, I'm still slightly nervous about the published designs for SeaTalk interfacing; I did devise my own, but haven't tested it yet.
 
Well on a similar sized boat I prefer cabin side nav lights and stern light. All LED of course.I sail a bit at night and have noticed when looking for oither boats that in sheltered waters top of mast lights are not as well noticed as low level. Now I am not going where the waves are likely to stop people seeing my nav lights. They are just low enough and far enough forward that no 1 jib does not cover the nav lights but they give lovely light for watching the jib when beating.
Another spect is that i frequently remove my mast so found wiring in the mast a real pain. Should I want an anchor light I would hoist one on a halyard.
Current drain for 3 individual lights is still very low. Less than the VHF on recive.
I would suggest a battery that is largest capacity comensurate with being manageable to carry home for charge.
In my case I use a 5w solar panel but then we do have lots of sunshine here. good luck olewill
 
nigelmercier said:
This is one of many projects on my back-burner. It will be incorporated into my Mk2 Fuel/RPM Gauge, as this will have SeaTalk and a light, but there is no reason it couldn't be a stand-alone. I envisage a device with a jumper to select the default level, 12V and LightsOn inputs, and SeaTalk bus output. However, I'm still slightly nervous about the published designs for SeaTalk interfacing; I did devise my own, but haven't tested it yet.
Click to expand...

Well, if you ever produce one, let me know :)

It did occur to me that the vice-versa equivalent might be useful to some people - close a relay when the Seatalk lights message is received. That way the compass light and any other non-Seatalk instrument lights can be turned on along with the instruments with one button.

Pete
 
prv said:
Sadly, and unlike the old VDO instruments on Kindred Spirit, there's no way to turn on the ST60 lights with a simple voltage signal - if I wanted these to come on automatically I would need something that speaks Seatalk. I did dangle the idea in front of Angus a while back, but he didn't bite :)
Click to expand...

It's easily done, but would cost about £18 by the time PCB's were made and postage was paid. I'm not sure if anyone else wants one though. There has to be more interest than 1 taker to make it worthwhile.
 
lustyd said:
Side lights would easily be lost behind waves on a boat this size and probably not seen when needed. The tricolour is very visible, as is the all around white for motoring. As you say, your comment is your humble opinion and I completely disagree in mine :)
Click to expand...
The point about having deck level lights is that you can use them when more appropriate to do. Even under sail. They display the orientation/ direction of travel which an allround white on its own does not do and are not lost from view against the clutter of shore lights from say the bridge of the ship following you into harbour. If you prefer them not to see you easily that up to you.

You still have the option of using the ARW in lieu of steaming light and stern light for good visibility at sea.

If you make do with just the ARW under power why bother with the tricolour when sailing ........ just use the ARW for both
 
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I think this is relevant to the OPs question.
What is the latest thinking in terms of fusing? All in one switch panel with glass fuse holders. All in one with breaker switches. Separate fuse box with blade fuses (a la car)?
 
VicS said:
The point about having deck level lights is that you can use them when more appropriate to do. Even under sail. They display the orientation/ direction of travel which an allround white on its own does not do and are not lost from view against the clutter of shore lights from say the bridge of the ship following you into harbour. If you prefer them not to see you easily that up to you.

You still have the option of using the ARW in lieu of steaming light and stern light for good visibility at sea.

If you make do with just the ARW under power why bother with the tricolour when sailing ........ just use the ARW for both
Click to expand...

The tricolour distinguished the fact that I'm under sail rather than motoring. Using the white for both would make it impossible to tell the difference and so decisions on collisions would be made differently.
As I said, it's a 20 footer from the 60s and deck level lights would almost never be visible. My mast is not tall enough to make background clutter a problem because the angle from the bridge of your imaginary ship would mean the sea is always the background for my mast top lights. We'll have to agree to disagree on this one, I've complied with the regs and I'm more than happy with the choices I've made for my boat and my sailing. When I get a bigger boat I will possibly make different choices.
 
alahol2 said:
I think this is relevant to the OPs question.
What is the latest thinking in terms of fusing? All in one switch panel with glass fuse holders. All in one with breaker switches. Separate fuse box with blade fuses (a la car)?
Click to expand...

A switch panel with incorporated old fashioned glass fuses works, is compact, and cheap, so it's suitable for a small low value boat. Why spend more money than necessary?
 
All good info here. I cant wait to get started.

I have been buying a few bits and bobs

A friend recommended a calcium leisure battery, what are your thoughts on these?

I have been looking at a few different batteries. I'm not quite sure what to buy yet :-/
 
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lustyd said:
There is plenty of room on the Vivacity for 3 or even 4 panels (I just replaced the wooden panel mine sits on so am confident). That said, mine manages fine with a 6 switch panel and a separate volt meter.
On my Vivacity I have:
1. Anchor/steaming light - these are the same thing on the Vivacity since it's so small
2. Tricolour - no deck level lights required for sail or motor on a Vivacity
3. cabin light
4. nav instruments (depth guage)
5. Stereo and 12v power socket
6. VHF and GPS

Separately I have the auto tiller. The battery lives in the port cockpit locker and has a local switch to turn everything off. The outboard connects to the batter through the stern and the auto tiller connects via a socket under the sheet runner. There is a battery charger which connects direct to the battery but lives in the cabin connected to the shore power. The fuse panel lives in the locker on starboard side inside the companionway and the VHF is on the starboard side.
Click to expand...

I think this is the set up im going for. You mention the fuse panel is in the starboard locker? If I had a fused switch panel do I need any other fuses?
 
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