New battery setup

On the fridge subject ..... I had a direct lesson in this few days ago ...
I did similar and accidentally left the Starlink and fridge on overnight from warm without switching on the mains charger. The fridge is cold enough to make ice, and we never set it warmer as we like ice. No problem, 70% by morning because we have lithium, so actually I could have gone home for the week and still been fine.
 
Assume you're replying to me. My fridge is very efficient once cool, but from warm it just takes power to get down to temperature. Most people probably don't realise how much.
We're a marina based boat while home, but occasionally are away for a few months. This has nothing at all to do with battery capacity though. We need a couple of weeks in British "Summer" while using the battery for fridge and Starlink among other things.
The cost of the 230Ah Fogstar is the same as two quality AGMs. The difference in capacity is normous so Lithium was a no brainer from the start, I actually thought the replacement AGMs would be a silly move given the cost per USABLE Ah. I added the £200 to get up to 300Ah as it was peanuts for the extra usable power over the life of the battery.

I've always seen 80% discharge recommended for lead, and the number of duff leads after short lives would seem to suggest even that is optimistic.
I think you're confusing 80% discharge with discharging to 80% SOC.
80% discharge is hard use, 50% discharge is typically quoted as a life of 400 cycles or so for lead acid, that's not many daily cycles but it's a lot of weekends for many boats. You can get a couple of 110Ah lead acids for £180, vs £700 for the same notional capacity in Fogstar. The LifePo4 will probably last longer, but it might be cheaper to wait a few years.
 
I think you're confusing 80% discharge with discharging to 80% SOC.
I'm not confused, and you seem to have understood me.

400 cycles is the blink of an eye compared to Lithium which measures in thousands or tens of thousands, and even then it's not completely dead, just mildly reduced capacity.

A dying Lead battery will drop volts such that many onboard systems will fail, the fridge will constantly try to spin up to cycle and fail, consuming even more power, and the autopilot will switch off while the plotter will begin to scream at you about low voltage. Lithium will still be at 13V and pumping juice even when it's degraded.

You can get a couple of 110Ah lead acids for £180, vs £700 for the same notional capacity in Fogstar.
£369 actually, and it'll still have more usable capacity. You've picked some shitty batteries to compare a good one to, I suspect your cheap batteries will be dead in a couple of years so you'll need 8-10 of them to compare properly.
Lithium Leisure Battery - Fogstar Drift 12v 105Ah
 
You've spaffed £800 on 'shiny' to do what people achieve with £200.
As you say, no brainer.
 
You've spaffed £800 on 'shiny' to do what people achieve with £200.
As you say, no brainer.
Nonsense, I invested £850 to make my time on board more comfortable and manageable, and £200 of lead doesn't achieve even close to what we have. We don't have the space or money for an equivalent lead bank, nor do I want to deal with constant degradation and low voltage alarms. Nothing shiny about it, the technology is better in every way. If you can't afford the initial outlay, or don't understand it fully then I'm sorry. You will certainly spend more in the long term than I have, and will have less capability in the mean time. I've not made a mistake, and I definitely have a better system than lead without a shadow of a doubt. That clearly triggers you and I appologise.
 
I would only consider this if I wasn't sure I could meet minimum needs. Lithium makes this kind of thing pretty obsolete as the leaky bucket becomes a leaky bathtub. Even with lead, people fitted what would fit in the boat as a general rule so talk of power audits was a waste of time

Our fridge, from warm, will chew through 60Ah overnight to get it and contents down to temperature and make some ice. That will destroy a 200Ah lead bank before leaving the mooring.
This is a simple 27' boat with very basic demands and poor generation used maybe 50 days a year. Like many similar boats it will be fine with between 200-250 lead acid. Apart from the small size, none of the other benefits of Lithium apply - no heavy discharge fast charge acceptance (only a puny 35A alternator and a 50W solar) and would never reach the theoretical number of life cycles to justify the cost of the installation. Intelligent use of fridge is of course important. Talk of power audits is a waste of time only if you are too lazy to do it. Nothing difficult about it and as an exercise it identifies ways of reducing power consumption so that you don't need to spend excess money on capacity you don't need.

Upgrading the switching and charging system and doubling the house capacity, approx cost under £500 would give 10-15 years life. Lithium has its place if you want to take advantage of the properties or have a pattern of usage that makes use of the potential longer life. There is nothing in what the OP says apart from possibly space limitations that suggests any advantage in spending twice as much on a lithium installation.
 
I don't think bickering about Lead vs Lithium is very useful.

The bottom line seems simple, lithium will be more expensive but offer a much better (to reside on the yacht for more than a couple of overnights) and more flexible solution than lead. Both will work but each has different demands - 300amp/hrs of lead is actually 150 usable amps whereas 300amp/hrs of lithium is 300amps (or nearly so). If the OP as well as using the yacht every weekend wants to make an annual 2 week cruise then Lithium is a sensible solution - if the OP wants to spend the money. Add in some long weekends, maybe.

In the bickering I've lost the detail and don't know whether the OP has shore power when not on board - but if he doesn't have shore power I'd hate to be on the yacht (or a near neighbour) as he tries to recover his batteries with a 35amp alternator. The engine will need to run for over 10 hours to get to float (from 50% discharge) and he will need to service the engine frequently. My memory of UK weather is such that I would not rely on solar being of much value over the winter when it can be overcast for 10 days in a row (but then I lived in Scotland) though a few roving panels well secured is an option (but needs somewhere large to store them when sailing - forepeak?).

Its seems Lithium vs Lead is the 'replacement' for the bickering anchor threads - (makes a change) and if the OP were to re-post with his thoughts at this time (based on the posts so far) it might allow the proponents of the preferred system to hone their recommendations (and those championing the less attractive (to the OP) can retire and lick their wounds).

The choice is a financial one AND how long, how many nights, the OP might be living on board (and how many times a year he might have an extended, off grid, stay).

Jonathan

And - there is not one right answer, most answers are right and will achieve what the OP wants - there are degrees or 'rightness' or attractiveness (to the OP).
 
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I have‘nt read throughthe replies yet, bit from reading your op it seems to me that a relatively simple and painfree solution would be to keepyour engine battery, or replace it if its dud with similar. Buy two new 120ahr leisure batteries ( approx £120 ea) and parralel them.
Add a 50watt solar panel at minimum, (£50), bigger/more if you can fit it. An mppt comtroller and some kind of basic battery monitor, like a nasa bm1, or the little circular voltmeter and ammeters you can get. I think you have a shore power cable and battery charger already?
That should cover you for your style of cruising, especially if you could get 200watts of solar, you should be golden.
 
OP question is typical of most sailors in that electrical requirements depend very much on habitual use. So the first question is to OP what was wrong with the existing system when he used it in typical style. ie days away from mains power. If you needed more power a simple addition of another LA battery in parallel to house battery would be simplest. However OP mentioned addition of a fridge which will change the whole power requirement and certainly another LA for domestic battery would be necessary. Or as advocated OP could go down road of lithium. Plus of course solar may be very beneficial but has the cost and difficulty of mounting panels for any large array. I say go slow and make incremental changes based on need. ol'will
 
There is also the thought that one lithium will take up the space of 2 x LA each, the one Lithium and the 2 x LA offering roughly the same capacity. But maybe the OP has plenty of spare space in the right place.

Jonathan
 
but if he doesn't have shore power I'd hate to be on the yacht (or a near neighbour) as he tries to recover his batteries with a 35amp alternator. The engine will need to run for over 10 hours to get to float (from 50% discharge) and he will need to service the engine frequently
Indeed, ours does take over 10 hours. Lithium doesn’t need to get to float though and we don’t need to be present while the solar charges them during the week. We’re now saving quite a few quid on shore power which we used to use to charge the lead bank. Even on long trips we get enough from solar and engine use to keep them within usable range for a month or more even if the engine is only used to heat water for 30 minutes a day and we only have 200W solar.
The recharge time is the same whether you have a small lead bank or large lithium bank. The difference is one must be charged frequently to avoid damage and probably while on board to ensure they are topped up.
 
Indeed, ours does take over 10 hours. Lithium doesn’t need to get to float though and we don’t need to be present while the solar charges them during the week. We’re now saving quite a few quid on shore power which we used to use to charge the lead bank. Even on long trips we get enough from solar and engine use to keep them within usable range for a month or more even if the engine is only used to heat water for 30 minutes a day and we only have 200W solar.
The recharge time is the same whether you have a small lead bank or large lithium bank. The difference is one must be charged frequently to avoid damage and probably while on board to ensure they are topped up.
Where on earth is this “must be on board”to recharge la batteries coming from?
Almost all boats have a solarpanel charging their batteries while they sit unnatended in a marina or mooring for weeks and months on end.
 
Where on earth is this “must be on board”to recharge la batteries coming from?
Almost all boats have a solarpanel charging their batteries while they sit unnatended in a marina or mooring for weeks and months on end.
Because with the smaller capacity you must charge as you go along while on the trip to avoid permanently damaging the lead bank. Applying the same logic to lithium as for lead is the problem here, and experience is working against many contributors. With lead, it's better to leave them full and on a trickle charge while lithium is best served if it hits 99% as you step aboard for the next trip.
 
Seems my point of "modest weekender use" vs Long distance / extended cruise reqt's is coming out again ...

For many boaters ... the simplicity of Lead Acid outweighs use of Li based solutions. Yes - LA are heavier ... need siting carefully and upright ... need to be charged up and kept charged as much as possible .... but as I said before ...

A Lead Acid battery usually fails in stages ... second - a trip to local petrol station or car shop gets replacement.
 
Seems my point of "modest weekender use" vs Long distance / extended cruise reqt's is coming out again ...
But I think you have it the wrong way around. Live aboards have the time to look after lead and are there to monitor them. The weekender that gets back to their mooring at 50% charge and has to leave to get to work the following morning may well have killed their lead batteries if they don’t return for two weeks or more. A small solar panel isn’t enough to rescue that lead bank but it is enough to gradually fill a lithium which will sip any tiny amps provided.
 
But I think you have it the wrong way around. Live aboards have the time to look after lead and are there to monitor them. The weekender that gets back to their mooring at 50% charge and has to leave to get to work the following morning may well have killed their lead batteries if they don’t return for two weeks or more. A small solar panel isn’t enough to rescue that lead bank but it is enough to gradually fill a lithium which will sip any tiny amps provided.


Maybe you are right ... but given the majority I suggest are of the Lead Acid setup - think lies in my favour.

I would question the >>>>
back to their mooring at 50% charge
<<<<<
as most boats would have motored last bit to mooring - alternator in that situation would be banging out amps ... it would be unusual to be moored and batterys still that low ...
 
I have similar needs and boat use to the OP, except that Jazzcat lives on a mooring, so is never hooked up to the mains - we don't even have a mains charger aboard. I have a couple of 60AH LA batteries for domestic power and starting the port engine, plus a starter battery for the starboard engine and 200W of solar. The solar keeps up with our use in decent weather in the summer, but it's getting a bit marginal at the autumn equinox. I plan on not changing the domestic batteries until they die, but intend to double the capacity when that happens.

Li batteries would be nice, but just not cost effective for us, and for the OP, I'd suggest looking at fitting more solar power if at all possible. Our panels are fitted to the hatch garage, which does mean that one or other is often shaded by the boom, but an arch is just too expensive, and I think that guard wire mounted panels are just too vulnerable.
 
as most boats would have motored last bit to mooring - alternator in that situation would be banging out amps ... it would be unusual to be moored and batterys still that low ...
Some boats might have to in order to not kill their batteries, but others might sail to the moorings and motor only for 5 minutes, which with Lead will not even move the dial.
 
and for the OP, I'd suggest looking at fitting more solar power if at all possible.
The problem there is that more solar doesn't give you more capacity, it just reduces time to refill. If you're out for a week and it's very overcast then your lead bank will still die a horrid death, especially given it's less able to make use of the solar that does come in.

No idea what you mean by not cost effective, for £369 you can get a 105Ah lithium that has more usable capacity than your current two 60Ah batteries and is rated for 7 times the cycles. The difference being that your lead is almost guarateed to be totally dead after 500 cycles whereas the lithium will likely still have 80% original capacity after 3500.
 
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