New Alternator - ouch

stephenk

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Recently went down to boat (Centaur) at Fareham getting ready for imminent lift in. Upon servicing engine discovered that alternator had turned into completely seized rusty lump over winter. Engine is Volvo 2002. Touted rusty lump round and ended up paying £220 for a non volvo recon one from Auto electrician, (At least he had several in stock)
Have not purchased alternator for several years but seemed v expensive. Is this the going rate for them nowadays ?
Stephen

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oilyrag

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Hella/Bosch service exchange units frm e.g. GS&F Car Parts - Hella 65amp for Volvo 740 £59.00 + VAT, Porshe 911 Turbo 90 amp = £135+ VAT
If it was an outright purchase then probably not too expensive.

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tr7v8

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not unless they've started gold plating them it isn't. If it had seized up then it was probably just a bearing full of muck and a pair of replacements plus a set of brushes would have made it well. Did they take the old one as an exchange?


<hr width=100% size=1>Jim

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halcyon

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Last time I enquired (around 6 months ago ) LSUK were asking around £50/60 for a new Lucas marine alternator, non ex-change.


Brian

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stephenk

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They most certainly wanted the old one.
I did consider repair but I think the old one had been subject to water dripping on it from somewhere and was a completely rusted lump.
The other problem I have is that I live 200 miles from the boat so when I do get down I have to try and get jobs done and pay the price. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of being able to nip back and forth. Reading the replies though it appears as if I have paid a premium for the privilige this time.
Never mind come April 5 its lift in and hopefully it will appear worth it !

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stephenk

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No - to be honest I never really considered that. I was probably too shocked by the price, I have two batteries on board and the original one always appeared to charge them well enough

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tr7v8

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General rule of thumb is that Alternator O/p should be approx 1/3 battery capacity eg. say Overall battery cap. is 210Amp/hour then alternator should be 70amps.




<hr width=100% size=1>Jim

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colvic

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Ask him for a written break-down of the costs. If not happy publish his name here and lest the rest of us know who to avoid.


Phil

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jollyjacktar

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They Surely Saw You Coming

Much cheaper to replace with a second hand alternator from a car wrecker. Works just as well, throw it away when it fails and replace with another. Mine last won I replaced about 7 years ago.

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mldpt

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This alternator subject seems to go on and on. I have a v/p Paris Rhone as fitted from new, the Price in 1993 was £500 +vat and delivery, Now I understand that an alternator is nothing special and you can put what ever make you want on, but the 2000 series has a very shallow one and has a single upper fixing bolt, how much trouble is it to mount a car alternator on to a 2003, apart from the single mounting bolt most car alternators are much deeper and larger in diameter also how do you modify the mounting and keep the pulleys in line. I should say that I never did purchase a new one and some 3000 hours mine is still working OK I have had new rectifier fitted a couple of times, but would like to be prepared next time it goes as I fancy fitting one of these £60 ones that everyone keeps mentioning, I would like an Adverc which is £200 + or there abouts and that is a straight fit, with a smart regulator , I have had a TWC on my present set up since 1993 and apart from a splitting diode fault had no trouble with the set up but on that occasion it cooked the battery while entering Gibralter. Anyway I would like to know more about modification needed to fit a car alternator.
Regards Mike

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charles_reed

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Marinising alternators.

The naughty ones do nothing, but Lucas, Hitachi and the better manufacturers put in larger, water-resistant bearings and a couple of extra coats of laquer, besides making it an insulated return and putting in a heftier diode bridge.

In truth, providing the engine-room has no water in it (difficult to do unless it's sealed from the bilges) and auto one will do as well.

The auto ones usually pack up after 3-5 seasons, whereas, barring accidental damage the marinised ones keep going for about twice that period.

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charles_reed

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there\'s no need to rub it in..

as long as you knw the disadvantages of an auto alternator.

Marine systems should have an insulated earth return - it prevents a lot of galvanic action and is very necessary in a steel-hulled boat.

Apart from that an auto-alternator will last a lot shorter period - providing the failure isn't too embarrassing you can work out the savings it might be an economic route.

A considerable number of conversions from industrial engines don't bother to upgrade the alternator.

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smb

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I don't want to rub it in, but Halfords at Gosport has a whole rack of various auto recon units, though I did not stop to consider price and spec as I just fitted an uprated one from Adverc.

Steve



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mick

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What if my batteries combined are 150 a/h and I get an alternator rated at 70 amps, which is obviously more than 1/3 of 150? Would there be a problem?

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tr7v8

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No problem, the 1/3 figure is an advised minimum. Basically any les than tht the recharge time becomes excessive.
1/2 will just recharge faster.

<hr width=100% size=1>Jim

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