Need Perkins Replacement Part(s) for Volvo Penta MD2020 Engine

If coolant is getting into the oil the first suspect (and probably the cheapest) would be the head gasket as others have mentioned.
 
Coolant in the sump is generally; headgasket, oil cooler if fitted, wet liner seal failure(I don't think these have wet liners), porosity of the block casting, porosity of head casting; none of which can be effectively diagnosed without dismantling.
 
If the head isn't off yet and your mechanic is saying a new one is needed, in my book, you're more likely to need a new mechanic than a new head. Head gasket, probably, but that's got to be changed if the head comes off anyway.
 
Stemar said:
If the head isn't off yet and your mechanic is saying a new one is needed, in my book, you're more likely to need a new mechanic than a new head. Head gasket, probably, but that's got to be changed if the head comes off anyway.
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He hasn’t said definitively. That’s because he hasn’t taken the head off he just said that it could be the head or it could be something else. He’s going to take the thing off hopefully this week sometime and we will know more then.

Thanks again.

Michael
 
Tranona said:
The head may be slightly different. There was an article in one of our mags a couple of years ago about the replacement of the head on a 2040 (4cylinder version of the same engine) which had failed when the injection pre combustion chamber broke free - not repairable. A Perkins head which had some slight but irrelevant differences - and a different colour! - was used. It was half the price of a green Volvo one. Heads so rarely need replacing as most damage, usually valves can be repaired so I guess very few are ever sold, even in the US where there are far more of these engines in use than in Europe. Perhaps you need to find a really good Shibaura or Perkins engineer or parts man who can identify the head and find the Perkins equivalent.

However this is jumping the gun a bit as you won't know what needs doing until the head comes off.
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The MD2040 is a 1.5 litre 3 cylinder
 
Here’s an update on what’s going on.

The mechanic is going down tomorrow. Today they sent me an estimate which assumes that the head gasket is the issue. The estimate is US$4000 and change.

Is that somewhere in the ballpark of what this ought to be in US dollars? I have no idea.

Also, is there some way to verify in advance that this is the actual root problem before proceeding?

Thanks for your assistance.

Michael
 
Quote far, far too much! I paid the other day the equivalent of 500quid to have3 cyl VP head overhauled. Plus new gaskets. Don't agree to the $4000, (perhaps it's the max), some places will charge that since that is what they quoted, even though they manage to do it in quicker time. You can ask their hourly rate and number of expected hours of labour. Presume you have inspected Parts4engines pricing
 
vic008 said:
Quote far, far too much! I paid the other day the equivalent of 500quid to have3 cyl VP head overhauled. Plus new gaskets. Don't agree to the $4000, (perhaps it's the max), some places will charge that since that is what they quoted, even though they manage to do it in quicker time. You can ask their hourly rate and number of expected hours of labour. Presume you have inspected Parts4engines pricing
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Thanks. That would appear to be the consensus.
 
FYI complete set of gaskets at Parts4Engines is costing 91EUR (this price is for the more expensive metal head gasket).
When head is removed you will need also need 2 gasket for the water circulation pump (these are included in the set).
$4000??? English is not my native language but just in case I would try to explain to that "mechanic" that I only want to buy&raplace the head gasket, not to buy significant part of the Volvo Penta business!
Any mechanic with basic training and little experience can remove the engine head (VP MD2020 is one of the simplest of engines), lap the valves, re-grind the valve seats if necessary and replace the head gasket.
 
TrampBg said:
FYI complete set of gaskets at Parts4Engines is costing 91EUR (this price is for the more expensive metal head gasket).
When head is removed you will need also need 2 gasket for the water circulation pump (these are included in the set).
$4000??? English is not my native language but just in case I would try to explain to that "mechanic" that I only want to buy&raplace the head gasket, not to buy significant part of the Volvo Penta business!
Any mechanic with basic training and little experience can remove the engine head (VP MD2020 is one of the simplest of engines), lap the valves, re-grind the valve seats if necessary and replace the head gasket.
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Thanks for your advice. Everybody has been great in terms of educating me on this subject of which I know next to nothing.

Will keep you advised.

Thanks again.

Michael
 
Goofeyfoot said:
Here’s an update on what’s going on.

The mechanic is going down tomorrow. Today they sent me an estimate which assumes that the head gasket is the issue. The estimate is US$4000 and change.

Is that somewhere in the ballpark of what this ought to be in US dollars? I have no idea.

Also, is there some way to verify in advance that this is the actual root problem before proceeding?

Thanks for your assistance.

Michael
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About £100 for the gaskets, an hour for head off, refurb 2 hours, hour back on. Plus a flight and 3 days bed and board for me!
 
Goofeyfoot said:
Thanks for your advice. Everybody has been great in terms of educating me on this subject of which I know next to nothing.

Will keep you advised.

Thanks again.

Michael
Click to expand...
Worst case scenario, but this is the first one Ive seen, my summing up was that it may have been a blocked exhaust elbow which then allowed the exhaust elbow seawater injection to impinge on the last cylinder.
How to remove a marine diesel cylinder head step by step
 
Goofeyfoot said:
Here’s an update on what’s going on.

The mechanic is going down tomorrow. Today they sent me an estimate which assumes that the head gasket is the issue. The estimate is US$4000 and change.

Is that somewhere in the ballpark of what this ought to be in US dollars? I have no idea.

Also, is there some way to verify in advance that this is the actual root problem before proceeding?

Thanks for your assistance.

Michael
Click to expand...
Outrageous sum, unfortunately. On the plus side, if it really is ‘only’ the gasket, you might come close to knocking a zero off their estimate with a more sensible engineer!
 
Probably you would be surprised how simple the removal of the engine head actually is.
Just download the Repair Manual for Volvo Penta MD 2000 series and read it.
Here is an article re engine head removal of VP 2030 which is pretty similar engine:
How to remove a marine diesel cylinder head step by step
I did it myself (plus change of piston rings, valve stem seals etc.) and learned a lot about my engine and acquired some new skills.
Now I'm much relaxed when motoring and know every sound of my engine. Also earned several beers from fellow ship engineers- high price for a Captain :sneaky:
Do not be afraid- just do it. Good luck!
 
TrampBg said:
Probably you would be surprised how simple the removal of the engine head actually is.
Just download the Repair Manual for Volvo Penta MD 2000 series and read it.
Here is an article re engine head removal of VP 2030 which is pretty similar engine:
How to remove a marine diesel cylinder head step by step
I did it myself (plus change of piston rings, valve stem seals etc.) and learned a lot about my engine and acquired some new skills.
Now I'm much relaxed when motoring and know every sound of my engine. Also earned several beers from fellow ship engineers- high price for a Captain :sneaky:
Do not be afraid- just do it. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Wish I had your intestinal fortitude! My problem is as soon as I get into the tools the first candidates are a crowbar, sledge hammer, and duct tape.
 
Goofeyfoot said:
Wish I had your intestinal fortitude! My problem is as soon as I get into the tools the first candidates are a crowbar, sledge hammer, and duct tape.
Click to expand...
Without knowing where in the world you're located, it's hard to know whether this is realistic...

But if it were me, I'd prioritise getting the motor out (arguably very easy to prepare DIY - it's only the lifting/handling that is tricky, in my opinion). Then you could direct it to you choice of local, reputable, engine rebuilder ('machine shop'). The same places often service heads and blocks, so deal with both (and would surely split them for you and work on the head only, if the block is sound).

While it isn't 'hard' to do it on the boat, it often limits your choice of engineer/mechanic/workshop massively. Once it's on a pallet or in the back of a pickup, it can be fixed by anyone.

Re-installation is the opposite of removal!

Any reputable marine engineer/mechanic should be able to provide a reasonable fixed-price estimate for cost of removal and re-installation.
 
dankilb said:
Without knowing where in the world you're located, it's hard to know whether this is realistic...

But if it were me, I'd prioritise getting the motor out (arguably very easy to prepare DIY - it's only the lifting/handling that is tricky, in my opinion). Then you could direct it to you choice of local, reputable, engine rebuilder ('machine shop'). The same places often service heads and blocks, so deal with both (and would surely split them for you and work on the head only, if the block is sound).

While it isn't 'hard' to do it on the boat, it often limits your choice of engineer/mechanic/workshop massively. Once it's on a pallet or in the back of a pickup, it can be fixed by anyone.

Re-installation is the opposite of removal!

Any reputable marine engineer/mechanic should be able to provide a reasonable fixed-price estimate for cost of removal and re-installation.
Click to expand...
Disagree, a decent mechanic can have the head and heat exchanger off in an hour, then more easily diagnosed
 
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