Nasa Clipper Wind cable re-joining

[RobBrown]

Following advice on the forum, I have sent my mast unit in to Nasa for repair as a spindle needs to be replaced before new cups can be fitted. The boat is in the water & mast is up and I had to cut the cable at the top to remove the unit. Peeps on here & Nasa themselves advised this would be ok, but that a waterproof connector will be needed to rejoin. Nasa do not sell & no real advice from them. Can anyone here suggest what connector to use & how it is fitted- at least one end will need to be whilst up in the air in a bosun's chair! Now getting seriously worried about how - having previouslystruggled for hours with a soldering iron to re-join a VHF aerial cable outside at the foot of the mast. Any sources/words of advice &/or comfort?!

 

[simonfraser]

soldring outside is hard work. the wind cools it all down, you'll def need a gas soldring iron and about four hands.

i suggest you take the cable out, leave a mouse rope in to pull it back down again and solder it inside the cabin.

next time, cut the cable below decks and rejoin using solder again or chock block if it is dry enough.

 

[Heckler]

I did what dog watch said, bought a lower housing off nasa, was only about a tenner, went up the mast to try and unsolder/solder, forget it, i couldnt even light the fecking thing with the slight wind, cut it in the end, brought the whole lot down and soldered it, then took it back up, said sod it and twisted the wires together, it worked perfectly for 2 years and then the big wind came in december and the fecking cups have gone again, will drill the housing myself this time, put in a bigger stud instead of the 2 mm stud and drill the cups.
stu

 

[Kurrawong_Kid]

I had the same problem. Cut wires to different lengths and joined with cut up block connectors wrapped in self amalgamating tape, but before had slipped a length of plastic tube over one end of the cable. When joining complete I slid the tube over the connections and used amagamating tape to seal the tube ends onto /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gifoo the cable.OK so far. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[pvb]

For working at the top of the mast, Scotchlok "jelly crimp" connectors would be the easiest way to do the job. No need to strip insulation; integral sealant makes them waterproof. Might not last for years, but will most probably outlive your next set of Nasa cups!

 

[ex-Gladys]

I used one of these....

web page

 

[Jonny_H]

Looks good - we are about to put a new mast head unit in so will need to join the cables (although I was hoping to do it below decks to make it easier!)

How many strands are there in the cable? Just thinking whether you would need a 7 or 9 pin plug (or fewer hopefully!)

Jonny

 

[pvb]

Wouldn't fancy fitting one of those at the masthead, swinging around in a bosun's chair!

 

[RestlessL]

[ QUOTE ]
How many strands are there in the cable? Just thinking whether you would need a 7 or 9 pin plug (or fewer hopefully!)

Jonny

[/ QUOTE ]

The NASA wind unit needs 5 pins - 4 core plus shield (which is used as the earth return).

The wires are particularly thin - so more than average care is needed with them.

John

 

[RobBrown]

Thanks for the replies guys, but I am particularly in agreement with pvb re the need to have any connection method performed at the top of the mast to be as simple as possible. At present taken by possibility of pvb's Scotchlock, joining as pe Kurrawong but have never used them. Source? I would confirm cable is already cut at the top of the mast, so I cant see extracting cable & remousing as viable option now. If using scotchlock joins, how is the "shield" rejoin, mentioned by Restless, achieved- even if presumably indvidual scotchlocks on the other 4?

 

[Stork_III]

Pull mouse line up mast using existing cable, connect head to old cable in cabin/home. Pull cable back down mast with mouse line. You could get NASA to put on new cable to avoid join at mast head, using mouse line to reinstall.

 

[RestlessL]

Scotchloks are available here There is a minimum quantity of 100, but they are usefull all around the boat.

They can be used to join the shield - twisted it will just fit inside the connector. Tie the two cables together with cable ties to take any mechanical strain.

However, I have found that the core cables are very small, and at the bottom end of the size range for the Scotchloks. It may be worth while bending each wire back on itself before inserting to increase the size

John

 

[RobBrown]

RestlessL- looked @ your link- was the size on there that suitable for the NASA cable? How are the connectors fitted- eg do I also need to buy one of the crimper tools on the same page link? If so, overall cost starts to look a bit prohibitive!

 

[Jonny_H]

You crimp them using normal pliers.

You push the ends of the wire into the conduits (unstripped) and then press the yellow 'button' down with pliers. Pushing down suppresses a metal connector which passes through the wire insulation to make contact. The pressing action also releases a gel type substance which oozes down the conduits to form a waterproof barrier.

Raymarine supply these with all their kit - very easy to use and very good in my experience.

Jonny

 

[RestlessL]

[ QUOTE ]
- very easy to use and very good in my experience.

Jonny

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree, and would recommend them highly.

Unfortunately, the only time I have had any problems with them is joining the cable supplied with my NASA Clipper Wind. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

John

 

[RobBrown]

Thanks for all the help. I think I will try the masthead rejoin with scotchloks first and if this doesn't work, try running new cable down to a break inside the cabin.

 

[ShipsWoofy]

I think the wire is too fine for scotchloks, I will be amazed if you manage all 5 before they start dropping out.

Either, solder and heatshrink, or use solder sleeve.

Solder sleeve is a great product for scarfing two wires, especially in limited space.. Use a black and decker heatgun type to close them.

You may be shocked how damp it gets inside the mast, you really have to be sure to seal everything properly.

I still prefer my connector up top, which allows the crew to bring the unit down for servicing, though I did get a report that maplin are no longer selling the connector I fitted, still, there are literally thousands of alternatives.

Connector I used shown here. These look interesting though a bit pricey.