My mooring may have moved.

If the block is going to be that hard to lift how likely is it to have dragged? Could it be that the chain is the only bit that has moved?

+1 What size is the ships anchor chain?

Instead of lifting the weight you could just move the chain around see how it looks next tide...
 
Since when did you have a mooring? Especially as you used mine at least once last year? And if you do and they don't and you don't get it checked annually, good luck to you! I had new gear laid in 2010 expecting 5 years, on the last inspection, 2013 the riser link was worn 50% and was replaced. How would you know otherwise? Let me know the number of your mooring and I'll avoid it. :) :encouragement:
I have a had a mooring on the Deben since 75 it is inspected Bi annually by Tam Grundy. the mooring was used only one w/e last year.
please feel free to use it any time
Just because my insurers dont ask doesnt mean its not inspected
 
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I wouldn't want to try it with my boat. The difficulty of making sure that it was positioned at the C of G and that it wouldn't slip would be too much.

At £30 a go I'ld happily try it with one or two of these though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000-Litr...Buildings_ET&hash=item1c3a55e5ac#ht_172wt_956

At least, if it all went pear shaped, I could get some good pictures from the safety of my cockpit! :D
The OP might want to make sure his fore hatch is securely battened down :encouragement:
 
Your sinker is .72 cubic metre, and is between 1.25 and 1.72 tons depending on density, (concrete between 1750kg and 2400 per cu metre, 1.2 x 1.2 x .5 = .72) less displacement say about .72 ton, so could be as little as 530kg or as much as 1000kg in the water. Easily lifted by a 35ft boat. I regularly lift a similar weight with my pot hauler to inspect it, with a double purchase, 32ft 12 ton boat.
 
Methinks OP needs to establish what the weight really is. 500kgs is a doddle. 2500kgs is in another ballpark altogether.
Think of 5 hefty blokes stood on the side decks versus 25 of them.
 
The big unknown factor in all this is the depth the sinker has gone into the mud, and the suction.

My guess would be a very significant extra load beyond the straight weight of the sinker; and the moment it releases might be interesting - ie downright dangerous too.

This seems akin to me to using a Rolls Royce to pull a traction engine out of a muddy field, using a 60mph run-up !
 
I have a had a mooring on the Deben since 75 it is inspected Bi annually by Tam Grundy. the mooring was used only one w/e last year.
please feel free to use it any time
Just because my insurers dont ask doesnt mean its not inspected

This is such a good point. Just because your insurers don't stipulate checks does not remove your obligation of responsibility and maintenance.

Your insurance company may not request a rig inspection but bet your last pound that if your vessel is lost through rig failure and you are luckily enough to be around to make a claim it will be down to you to demonstrate your rig condition was verified.
 
This is such a good point. Just because your insurers don't stipulate checks does not remove your obligation of responsibility and maintenance.

Your insurance company may not request a rig inspection but bet your last pound that if your vessel is lost through rig failure and you are luckily enough to be around to make a claim it will be down to you to demonstrate your rig condition was verified.
Our Rig has an annual visual check
 
The big unknown factor in all this is the depth the sinker has gone into the mud, and the suction.

My guess would be a very significant extra load beyond the straight weight of the sinker; and the moment it releases might be interesting - ie downright dangerous too.

This seems akin to me to using a Rolls Royce to pull a traction engine out of a muddy field, using a 60mph run-up !

You have to lean on it, it comes out quite gently, the rising tide is an ideal progressive load increase. Make fast in such a way that the weight can be veered away if necessary.
 
The big unknown factor in all this is the depth the sinker has gone into the mud, and the suction.

!

But if - as suggested- it has dragged fairly recently it will not be far in the mud. A sinker that has been in place for some time may be a couple of feet deep in the mud but a sudden change in the scouring of the sea bed could easily release it in a few tides.
There again it could just as easily re bury it, having moved it!!!
 
I have known mooring sinkers get scoured and exposed by the circling chain, I discovered this at our club a couple of years ago, it necessitated my surveying the moorings then suggesting getting in a pro with a mechanised digger but we're OK now; that was with half tide mud moorings suffering from a change in mooring buoy format, I can't see a ship chain going round at a depth like that.

I think whoever it was who suggested the heavy ' ships' anchor chain ' may have moved is quite probably onto something; chain like that is not easy to move to put it mildly, and a big wind like we've had lately might pull it round in its' radius, giving the appearance the sinker has shifted...

Edit- I think it was Gordmac who suggested maybe just the chain has moved, I'm thinking more & more he's right; difficult to tell without divers and even then with good visibility...
 
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Our Rig has an annual visual check

IMHO an annual visual inspection is not worth anything. Rigging wire needs to eb replaced ona calender basis ie about 12years. SS wire can fail with no warning.
Re the OP and his mooring. It can be very misleading about mooring location. Especially when there is a vacant mooring buoy. It will not move like you boat moves in tide and wind. If indeed the mooring has moved or you want it moved a little anyway your best bet is another mooring weight dropped some distance in the direction you want to go. Use tyhis new weight bias or pull the mooring centre. ie the boat will sit between the 2 weights. The new weight can be an anchor or smaller manageable weight as you will still have the original weight as a back up if the new one moves. You can lift quite a lot with a bridle between the jib sheet winches but I would not suggest you try it. good luck olewill
 
IMHO an annual visual inspection is not worth anything. Rigging wire needs to eb replaced ona calender basis ie about 12years. SS wire can fail with no warning.
Re the OP and his mooring. It can be very misleading about mooring location. Especially when there is a vacant mooring buoy. It will not move like you boat moves in tide and wind. If indeed the mooring has moved or you want it moved a little anyway your best bet is another mooring weight dropped some distance in the direction you want to go. Use tyhis new weight bias or pull the mooring centre. ie the boat will sit between the 2 weights. The new weight can be an anchor or smaller manageable weight as you will still have the original weight as a back up if the new one moves. You can lift quite a lot with a bridle between the jib sheet winches but I would not suggest you try it. good luck olewill
:sleeping:
 
Well no doubt that the mooring had moved, and it moved again last Saturday whilst force 11 gusted down the river along with a huge tide, with me sitting in the car watching a very gentle progression downstream of about 10 meters

Today replaced the riser with 30mm nylon, new 8.5t shackles.

Moved mooring weight upstream using the tide to lift it with a plank across the deck, little noticeable effort needed, just watched the rugby and then motored upstream, cut the line holding it in place when over the correct spot.

Augmented it with 20 meters of anchor chain and a reinforced concrete block with holes in it such that it ought to sink into the mud and resist, or arrest any further movement of the main block.

PS. Spoke to friend of mine later and discovered that he had re-positioned his using a similar method a few years ago.

Tony
 
oh please, pictures of this marvellous PBO success !.......

Funnily enough my son, who was helping told me to take some photos for the doomsayers on here but sorry I did not take his suggestion.


Simple process, stout plank (6*3 cherry) across the deck sitting above the toerails with a 18 inch piece of 4*2 sitting on the rails to spread the load, make sure the plank is long enough to overhang about 12inch on each side. Line from each outer end back to midship cleats, and separate line forward onto bow cleats. Thus holding the plank in position on deck.

At low tide pass line through top of ground chain and secure each end onto the ends of the plank so that the boat is held in a bridal directly over the mooring, then wait.

When the time comes the mooring will lift, then just drift or motor to your chosen position, Cut the rope and bobs your uncle.

DIY the only way to go in my estimation,

regards

Tony.
 
Now consider is your mooring a trifle short for extreme conditions?

An overly long mooring is susceptible to damage from the bottom, Learned that from past experience where a line, 32 inches too long, frayed right through, and its replacement began to show signs of the same within a few weeks.

I may add more anchor chain to make the damping effect more extreme but only a matter of a few meter or two.

But for now I am happy to wait and see. Only one boat with 200m of me now so plenty of room for a little movement.!

Regards.
 
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