My Jabsco won't suck

Stork_III said:
Or fit a new twist/lock pump instead for not much more.
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Whilst a good idea - it is actually twice the price of a kit, and knowing dylan's reluctance to spend money he might even just buy the offending flap valve which IIRC is around £10!
 
nigelmercier said:
For rubber you would normally use silicone grease: http://amzn.to/1lmk24o
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vyv_cox said:
The beauty of using silicone grease is that it reacts with almost nothing, in which case it does not matter what the seal is made from.
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Quite so. I've been using the stuff above for about 40 years, never had a problem.

As an aside, when I bought my boat there was a big pot of Vaseline in the tool box. I (rather nervously) asked what it was for, to be told it was for rubber and electrical connections. I promptly chucked it in the bin.
 
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nigelmercier said:
Quite so. I've been using the stuff above for about 40 years, never had a problem.

As an aside, when I bought my boat there was a big pot of Vaseline in the tool box. I (rather nervously) asked what it was for, to be told it was for rubber and electrical connections. I promptly chucked it in the bin.
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Peggy Hall, AKA Headmistress as she used to be on here, always recommended using a Teflon grease IIRC but similar I suppose

I always used Vaseline for the threads on underwater shackles as on the mooring riser, worked very well for that.
 
nigelmercier said:
Quite so. I've been using the stuff above for about 40 years, never had a problem.

As an aside, when I bought my boat there was a big pot of Vaseline in the tool box. I (rather nervously) asked what it was for, to be told it was for rubber and electrical connections. I promptly chucked it in the bin.
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Vaseline is good for chaps ( allegedly).
 
There have been a few critical modifications to Jabsco heads over the last few years as I understand things.

Firstly they added a spring to press one of the rubber flap valves down against the seal. The kits came with the spring to add when you changed all the valves over. (PS Dylan, if the heads start playing up again, one of the service kits might not be a bad investment.

The second mod was the twist and lock. I've replaced one or our heads pumps with this new style pump and its a LOT better than the old one it replaced. It certainly stops the loo partially filling and the pump quality seems to be better. If you can raise the wind for a new pump Dylan (as others have already said) the new style twist and lock pumps are very good. They are also a straight replacement so very easy to fit.

If you are really struggling for spares I've probably got some bits for the old style pumps kicking around somewhere.
 
john_morris_uk said:
There have been a few critical modifications to Jabsco heads over the last few years as I understand things.

Firstly they added a spring to press one of the rubber flap valves down against the seal. The kits came with the spring to add when you changed all the valves over. (PS Dylan, if the heads start playing up again, one of the service kits might not be a bad investment.

The second mod was the twist and lock. I've replaced one or our heads pumps with this new style pump and its a LOT better than the old one it replaced. It certainly stops the loo partially filling and the pump quality seems to be better. If you can raise the wind for a new pump Dylan (as others have already said) the new style twist and lock pumps are very good. They are also a straight replacement so very easy to fit.

If you are really struggling for spares I've probably got some bits for the old style pumps kicking around somewhere.
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well it works now...

but the bits of rubber looked fine - although a but crusty and needed a gentle scrape with a screwdriver

the weights had corroded a bit

I reckon that the bits couold do with being replaced


DVD for bog parts swap?

D
 
john_morris_uk said:
The second mod was the twist and lock. I've replaced one or our heads pumps with this new style pump and its a LOT better than the old one it replaced. It certainly stops the loo partially filling and the pump quality seems to be better. If you can raise the wind for a new pump ...
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Or do what I did. Buy an entire Twist and Lock unit (29090-3000) when they are on offer, keep the seat as a spare (and the hinges, which break) and the pump.

Sell the porcelain part on eBay. Result: new pump plus all the other bits for less than the cost of a pump.
 
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Sometimes the pump can have a little difficulty priming, even after a clean and rebuild. Mine required me to drop the anti syphon loop on the intake onto the cabin sole to reduce the head against which it was pumping. Once primed, it works just fine with the loop back in place. I've heard others suggest that removing the pump to bowl hose and blocking the pump outlet helps seat the flap valve until it is primed, too.

Rob.
 
That's also the symptom of the joker valve which is rubber flaps in a cone fitted where the pipe fits on to toilet. The problem is it gets clogged up with calcium, its best to replace it and as said buy a service pack. It's actually a choker valve but that had been trademarked, hence the stupid name. We used cooking oil to lubricate the pump by flushing it through.
 
KellysEye said:
That's also the symptom of the joker valve which is rubber flaps in a cone fitted where the pipe fits on to toilet.
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No it isn't. The joker valve is on the discharge side and has nothing whatsoever to do with a failure to prime. Symptoms of a failed joker valve are that smelly water from the discharge siphon loop runs back into the bowl.
 
I've got kind of the opposite problem.

Sucks in fine. Mostly pumps out fine. Always fine to sea, but ocassionally to tank, it goes really really stiff on the downwards push and the bowl won't empty. If I jiggle the valve turning between holding tank and sea, then there's whoosh of air and trickling sound, then I turn the handle back to tank and then it's fine.

Air block to holding tank?

We have only been using the tank for the past 2 weeks (long story, but it was out of use for years, but had been left full - so it's taken us several weeks of regular treatments, flushing, emptying to get it reasonable).
 
Vara said:
Aaah a job I've been doing today, service kit about £28, and about an hour to strip clean, and replace all the bits, now works a treat. I've always used silicone grease rather than recommended Vaseline as it's less sticky.

Generally need the full kit every three years or so, if it gets a bit sticky in between times a strip down and clean with hot soapy water and a toothbrush usually makes things work better.

Take note of the remark re screws, if ham fisted easy to cross thread and it won't seal.

image.jpg
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It is advisable to put the toothbrush back without informing the owner:)
 
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