Multimeter Advice Please

Ive marked the pointed end of the switches to make it clearer

Good idea.

I'm forever draining the battery on my ones because I think I've turned them off, but actually have left the switch on the reciprocal heading (if you see what I mean).
 
This is the same as the ones I bought ( several years ago) at 2 for £5 from Maplin . Only things lacking are an audible continuity check and AC current other wise perfectly satisfactory and would buy again


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...t+Equipment/sd3348/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867

Me too. Maplin were doing 2 for 1. Both are still working despite one being kept on the boat.
Prefer non-autoranging for non bench work as it's easy to measure induced millivolts and think it's 'on'.

BTW really useful on a boat to have say 100 ohm resistor between two cascadeable banana plugs. Connect it between the inputs of your meter when sniffing for 10volts. Virtually everything conducts on a boat - except when you want it to.
 
I think a cheapy maplin type one will do far more than you require it to for boaty stuff, but the best investment you can make if not standard is a decent set of leads that have clip on capability. Trying to measure voltage/continuity across wires on a boat with inevitable poor access to circuits can be tricky and having leads that can grab to free a hand is so very useful!
 
Are you sure a multi meter is what you need? for simple circuit diagnosis a continuity tester that puts a load on the circuit is probably more useful, a multi meter can mislead by showing voltage present when the circuit is unable to draw much current. Something like the one in the link is more than adequate. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PP1-Auto-Probe-6-24V/dp/B000RA17CS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1422963978&sr=8-11&keywords=circuit+tester
Yes, I'm sure it's a multimeter I want.
 
If the person does not understand the difference between voltage and current they should not be playing around with it. They should employ an electrician who does understand.

I understand the difference between sugar and salt, but that would not stop me putting the wrong stuff in my tea if they were in similar containers.
 
A few additional thoughts. The clamp amp meter should be really good. However you will note the ranges for DC are 0 to 490 amps or 0 to 400 amps. So not much good for checking small or leakage currents.
Re blowing the current sensing circuits by failing to switch to volts one option might be to set up a separate current shunt on leads suitable for insertion in a circuit. Use the 200mv scale so 1 ohm shunt will give a current range of 0 to 200ma. (1/5 amp) A .1 ohm resistor (or 10 x 1 ohm resistors in parallel) will give 0 to 2 amp.
Or keep a separate MM for current with appropriate lead ends for current testing.
In a similar manner leads with a switchable load would be very useful on a boat. Perhaps 10 or 20 ohms or a low wattage lamp mounted on the plugs going in to the meter.
Re autoranging, really on a boat it is the 20v range that you you will use mostly or continuity requiring switchng anyway. So why go to the ost of autoranging.
good luck olewill
 
I understand the difference between sugar and salt, but that would not stop me putting the wrong stuff in my tea if they were in similar containers.

Hopefully you keep such chemicals in correctly labelled containers :)

DSCF1387.jpg
 
I intended to buy a multimeter on Amazon today, and discovered that there are dozens of models available ranging in price from £2.79 to £179.00. Somewhere in there is the one I need.
Can anyone advise on the best type/model to buy please? I only require it for boat maintenance.

I bet you are totally confused by now :rolleyes:
 
I have been looking for a new meter: I am still using my meter from uni days (along time ago), Any how a couple have been short listed but yet to part with the cash.

Seems nice with temp sensor which mught be useful on the boat.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320974306336?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This the really useful feature of having a reset-able fuse on the mA scale.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171350316974?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This seems nice with the bar graph and 5 digits but otherwise basic and not sure the PC connection is needed on a boat, but might be useful if you are faulty finding transducers ? Others probably know better than me.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151282005367?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


Have fun buying and show what you bought (review).
 
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Hi all,

Just thought I would throw in another angle to selecting a suitable multimeter - safety of the user!

I'm sure I can hear everyone groan now!

Do a search in Google for GS38

GS38 is a HSE guidance note covering the safety requirements for electrical test equipment and in particular the test leads.

Now I know that Health and Safety law does not apply to your hobby boat environment (unless of course you're paying someone to work on your boat), you could consider that the boaty environment which may include LPG, petrol fuel, a mixture of voltages and a novice user, could be a risky type of place where one would want to take care of there personal safety and that of others!

Just thought I'd throw that in to see what happens!

John
 
The clamp amp meter should be really good. However you will note the ranges for DC are 0 to 490 amps or 0 to 400 amps. So not much good for checking small or leakage currents.

I agree that for very low currents it isn't perfect but from 100mA upwards it agrees very well with the Adverc monitor / shunt setup on board
 
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